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I ordered a Powerbond PB1117SS from Summit Racing, the box and HB inside the box have the correct and same part number. The problem is that the HB in the box looks very different from the picture on Summit and Dayco's website.
Any ideas why the big difference in images of a Powerbond PB1117SS online vs. the one I received? What HB do I have?
More then likely the stock photo is just a generic hb. When i recently purchased a new HB i found that 3 different websites would end up with 3 different pictures for the same part number.
More then likely the stock photo is just a generic hb. When i recently purchased a new HB i found that 3 different websites would end up with 3 different pictures for the same part number.
That could be, but the part number printed on the 'stock' photo is clearly a PB1117SS, same as mine. The other problem is that the HB I was sent doesn't fit my stock 2007 LS2 although it's the listed part for my car. Something is wrong.
You have to heat that bad boy up in the oven so it expands enough to slide it onto the crank. Prepare for a pretty nasty smell temporarily once it starts heating up.
It's the right part number. I wouldn't be completely surprised if they changed the design over the years but never changed the stock photo.
You should probably get in contact with either Powerbond or the place your ordered the part from.
I'm assuming it didn't fit? It is a pretty tight squeeze to get it on the crank snout from what I've heard.
Summit doesn't know anything, they are just the retailer but are happy to refund the product, good folks. I talked with Dayco (Powerbond) Customer Service and was asked for a picture of the unit I received, I sent that picture with an explanation, they have not responded back.
Looking at them side by side the center hub portions are not the same.
Heating is not the answer, this was at a Chevy Dealer that specializes in Corvettes and has done many of these repairs, it doesn't fit.
I just did this job a few months ago on my 07, looks like you got the same balancer I installed, I pulled my original, very lightly polished the crank snout with 1000 grit sand paper, put antiseize around 3/4 of the crank staying clear of where I want the keyway to be on the snout. I then heated the balancer with a heat gun till it was good and warm. But not hot, then I filled the keyway with RTV, lined the balancer up making sure the RTV was on the antiseize free part of the crank, then using the INSTALL TOOL pulled it in, took my new earls performance bolt with antiseize under the head and washer along with blue loctite on the threads and torqued it to 240 foot pounds. I also drilled for a pin but that's optional. Measuring with my micrometer the snout and the ID of the balancer are about the same so it's tight!!! Buy the looks of the wear marks on your balancer ID the dealer had it about half way in then used the threaded holes to yank it. Everything looks fine on mine and belts line up, no more chirping belts on start up. Give your mechanic my write up.
Notice how clean, smooth, and the removed paint looks on my balancer from use of the install tool ? Maybe it's the pic but your balancer looks ruff, did they try to install it with the stock bolt?
Notice how clean, smooth, and the removed paint looks on my balancer from use of the install tool ? Maybe it's the pic but your balancer looks ruff, did they try to install it with the stock bolt?
I think you nailed it, they were using a stock bolt. I'll send your install info to the mechanic, many thanks. My fault I guess, being new at this stuff I should have provided an ATI or other/better bolt. Mystery solved...
Now maybe Dayco/Powerbond can update their HB picture on the various websites. Thanks again
Make sure they use the install tool, using the stock bolt may strip the crank threads, a little antiseize on the install tool bolt and washer makes it easier to crank..good luck!
P.S. if you haven't, probably should change the front seal also.
I would bet that a Chevy dealer was not using the stock bolt to pull it on. If they were? You need to find another place to do the work.
Using the bolt can easily pull the threads out of the crank. Using the proper tool is widely-known enough that if they don’t know it, there’s probably a lot of other things they will mess up.
I would bet that a Chevy dealer was not using the stock bolt to pull it on. If they were? You need to find another place to do the work.
Using the bolt can easily pull the threads out of the crank. Using the proper tool is widely-known enough that if they don’t know it, there’s probably a lot of other things they will mess up.
Some cars came with a veryvery very thin washer behind the damper. Apparently it is to help prevent the damper from spinning on the crank. Pinning it will solve that but if you like to assemble correctly, make sure you include it if yours came with one.
Mine was stuck to the end of the stock damper. Of course I learned about and found it after I installed the new one. It was so thin I concluded there was no way it missing could affect spacing and since I was pinning it, it was unnecessary to help prevent spinning.
Some cars came with a veryvery very thin washer behind the damper. Apparently it is to help prevent the damper from spinning on the crank. Pinning it will solve that but if you like to assemble correctly, make sure you include it if yours came with one.
Mine was stuck to the end of the stock damper. Of course I learned about and found it after I installed the new one. It was so thin I concluded there was no way it missing could affect spacing and since I was pinning it, it was unnecessary to help prevent spinning.
No prob since!
my PB 1117ss instructions said to NOT use that washer.
FWIW, I have two Powerbond HB's for LS3's sitting on my desk right now. One 10% underdrive and one 10% overdrive. They both look like the bottom pic in the first post.
I have a powerbond at home that i recently ordered for my wet sump c6 setup. I can take a pic when i get home tonight. From what i remember it does not look like any of those pictures.
To end my unfortunate situation with the Dealer and get my car back I had them install an OEM HB and front seal. They would not try to re-install the PB117SS and rather than wait to solve all the odd things regarding that Powerbond HB I gave up. The OEM HB and front seal are in and working and they have a warranty for parts and labor. It's not what I wanted to happen but I was stuck.
Thanks to all for the help with this, I've learned a lot about the car and Dealers. I wish I was still able to do this type work but age and other things prevent that, finding knowledgeable and quality people to work on this car will be my next task. Luckily this forum is chock full of good advice and helpful members, thanks everyone.
I don’t think you’ll have any issues. My 06 had 88k and the balancer seemed fine. I replaced it only because I had it off and didn’t want to kick myself if it did develop a problem later.
Sorry to hear its more difficult to work on the cars these days. Where are you located? I’m in Los Angeles if you’d ever want some help.
I don’t think you’ll have any issues. My 06 had 88k and the balancer seemed fine. I replaced it only because I had it off and didn’t want to kick myself if it did develop a problem later.
Sorry to hear its more difficult to work on the cars these days. Where are you located? I’m in Los Angeles if you’d ever want some help.
Thanks for that info, not all the OEM HB's can be bad I guess, LOL.
That is a kind and generous offer, I'm out in SW Riverside County, near the Temecula wine country. I would be happy to buy you an adult beverage for all the info and support you've already provided.
12-14-2018, 03:30 PM
Powerbond PB1117SS HB? What's this then?
