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[C1] Changing shifter location on a Muncie

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Old 12-18-2018, 09:42 AM
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vettepoor
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Default Changing shifter location on a Muncie

I have a M21 in my 57, and I recently lowered the trans mount by 1” to help driveline angle. I now have an issue with the shifter pinching the shifter boot when shifting to 2nd and 4th. Since the shifter plate has no adjustment, can the shifter itself be moved forward, say about 1/2”, by adjusting the shift rods as long as the shift gate relationship stays the same? Other option would be to swap shift levers to a short throw setup (with 2 holes), or drill my current levers. Looking for suggestions or advice from anyone who has been down this path. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Old 12-18-2018, 09:47 AM
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Pop Chevy
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Factory shifter or Hurst ???? It would be easy to move the Hurst shifter forward. Cut and reweld.
Old 12-18-2018, 10:00 AM
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vettepoor
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Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
Factory shifter or Hurst ???? It would be easy to move the Hurst shifter forward. Cut and reweld.
Factory shifter from later C1, as it has the reverse lockout lever on it. (My own preference)
Old 12-18-2018, 01:55 PM
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I doubt all of your rods would clear unless you tweeted them! You might have to go aftermarket!

I prefer short throw in everything. The last aggravating long throw I drove was my Father's 1963 356B Porsche! I could practically rub her thigh while driving, while in 4th gear!

Last edited by TCracingCA; 12-18-2018 at 02:00 PM.
Old 12-18-2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by vettepoor
I have a M21 in my 57, and I recently lowered the trans mount by 1” to help driveline angle. I now have an issue with the shifter pinching the shifter boot when shifting to 2nd and 4th. Since the shifter plate has no adjustment, can the shifter itself be moved forward, say about 1/2”, by adjusting the shift rods as long as the shift gate relationship stays the same? Other option would be to swap shift levers to a short throw setup (with 2 holes), or drill my current levers. Looking for suggestions or advice from anyone who has been down this path. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Check with member DZauto (Tom) he is THE MAN when it comes to this stuff.
Old 12-18-2018, 02:54 PM
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vettepoor
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Hopefully Tom will read this. I touched base with him before I lowered my tranny to see if he had anything change - he indicated no ill effects. I’m not sure what kind of shifter he has on his 56 - may be something different.
Old 12-18-2018, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by vettepoor
Hopefully Tom will read this. I touched base with him before I lowered my tranny to see if he had anything change - he indicated no ill effects. I’m not sure what kind of shifter he has on his 56 - may be something different.
I put a new Hust Competition Plus in my 57 with the factory look-a-like original shift handle. Best of best worlds with the Hurst shifter and factory look handle and no one know the difference.
Old 12-18-2018, 03:46 PM
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No reason you can't adjust the rods longer to move the gear change gate forward i the opening if you have enough threads on the rods.

Forget drilling the shift levers, I think they are hardened steel. Maybe use the later arms with the pre-drilled holes?
Old 12-18-2018, 05:04 PM
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vettepoor
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Thanks for the replies. Hopefully this can be done with an adjustment of the shift rods. I will report back my findings.
Old 12-18-2018, 05:07 PM
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What problems were you incurring with the driveline angle? I have a '57 with a Muncie and I have no issues.
Old 12-18-2018, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Hampton
What problems were you incurring with the driveline angle? I have a '57 with a Muncie and I have no issues.
No major problems, Dan. I was having a very slight vibration occasionally which seems to be gone now. A few years back I had my front u joint come apart at high speed - no fun! I always wondered if driveline angle was the culprit? After a lot of research, including Tom Parsons’ write up on the matter, I took the time to make the change. Guess I just wanted to rule out any possibility of a repeat incident! I admit I was on the fence for some time - one of those “ if it ain’t broke” scenarios.
Old 12-18-2018, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
No reason you can't adjust the rods longer to move the gear change gate forward i the opening if you have enough threads on the rods.

Forget drilling the shift levers, I think they are hardened steel. Maybe use the later arms with the pre-drilled holes?
Uh huh. Or made of Kryptonite. Been there, tried that.

Old 12-18-2018, 10:28 PM
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If it is a Hurst, I had one that I slotted the two bottom holes on the mounting bracket to keep the handle from hitting the console on one car when shifting into 2nd and 4th.

Last edited by R66; 12-18-2018 at 10:29 PM.
Old 12-19-2018, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by vettepoor
Other option would be to swap shift levers to a short throw setup (with 2 holes),


I think this is your easiest and best option. Doesn't require pulling the shifter or anything - just replace the levers and readjust. I never liked rowing the Muncie lever in the long throw position anyway.

Old 12-19-2018, 03:13 PM
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I'll be watching this post. I have the same problem with the boot ripping on my stock 4 speed shifter (due to long throw) after about 30 miles of easy driving. Right now I have a RockAuto boot on it which is thicker, and stiffer rubber. I would prefer the stock boot. I also lowered my Muncie M-21 by 1 inch due to driveline angle issues. If someone has a source for adjustable shift levers, please let interested parties know.
Thanks,
Dennis
Old 12-19-2018, 04:08 PM
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When I bought my '63, the shift lever was pinching the boot on second and fourth gears. I simply lengthened the shift rods to move the handle forward in the opening a little. Problem solved.

It had the OEM shifter and B/W four speed. No short throw factory levers for that combo. Not that I'd want them.
Old 12-19-2018, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
When I bought my '63, the shift lever was pinching the boot on second and fourth gears. I simply lengthened the shift rods to move the handle forward in the opening a little. Problem solved.

It had the OEM shifter and B/W four speed. No short throw factory levers for that combo. Not that I'd want them.
My 1965 has the original Muncie shifter in it and I recently switched it to the short throw position and I like it much better.By the way my original shift Does not rattle either as it is a complaint by many people with the original shifter.

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Old 12-19-2018, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 68hemi


My 1965 has the original Muncie shifter in it and I recently switched it to the short throw position and I like it much better.By the way my original shift Does not rattle either as it is a complaint by many people with the original shifter.

My '65 three speed shifter doesn't rattle either and I like the long throw.
Old 12-19-2018, 05:52 PM
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Just ordered the dual ratio shift levers for the c-2 Muncie from CC. Hope that these will take care of the problem. I will keep all posted.
Dennis
Old 12-19-2018, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
My '65 three speed shifter doesn't rattle either and I like the long throw.
I did not realize your car was a 3 speed. Did they even have the provisions to switch it to the short throw on the 3 speed shifters?


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