Advice please...thinking of buying a 95-96
#1
Advice please...thinking of buying a 95-96
C4 auto. I know the newer gens would be more reliable but I just don't like the C5. The C6 is OK I guess. I can't afford a C7. I just think a C4 is the best looking Vette I can afford. I guess it's nostalgia from my teenage years. The trouble is, while I am mechanically inclined, I despise working on cars. On the rare occasion my truck or wife's tahoe needs repair I just take it somewhere. I guess I COULD work on it, but I'm fat, 40, and I can't jump up off the floor of the garage like I used to. Would paying someone to fix a C4 put me in the poor house?
It would be a Sunday driver with maybe an occasional road trip. I'd want to have the rear gear changed if it's a 2.59 and a catback installed and that's it.
TIA
It would be a Sunday driver with maybe an occasional road trip. I'd want to have the rear gear changed if it's a 2.59 and a catback installed and that's it.
TIA
#2
Melting Slicks
If you are set on a C4 and want to minimize time under the hood I think the 95'/96' auto is the safest bet! Good call.
Last edited by TorchTarga94; 01-16-2019 at 08:01 AM.
#3
Pro
Buying anything that old that you don't want to work on could be tough. If you ante-up for a very well maintained C4 that has a good history, you can certainly curb some of the maintenance time. I'm cheap, so I got a good deal on my C4 because I bought it knowing it had some maintenance items I would have to handle in the coming months.
#4
Race Director
Agree. Its hit or miss. Even the best 95 or 96 is 20+ years old, it will need stuff. If you're paying people to do everything, including basic upkeep, it could become an expensive car easily.
The nice thing is c4 parts are cheap and they're fairly easy to work on and very robust. Any used car can have issues. A c5 or c6 would be no different.
The nice thing is c4 parts are cheap and they're fairly easy to work on and very robust. Any used car can have issues. A c5 or c6 would be no different.
#5
Safety Car
I'd want to have the rear gear changed if it's a 2.59 and a catback installed and that's it.
To adjust the gear ratio in a 96, you have to either buy a Jet box, pay someone to sacrifice one of their Vin numbers (if someone close to you has one), be prepared to forgive them if it goes wrong, etc. and bricks the ECM.
There are multitudes of tables in the 96 that a MPH related, most if not all in the automatic trans section so for a stick car, it is important, but doesn't affect the programming tables as much.
#6
Racer
In order to have the speedometer and other electronic readouts read correctly, as well as the computer programming, the gear ratio has to be adjusted software wise, at least in the 96. I am going to assume the 95 is the same way. I can't look at 95 tables as my evaluation copy of the software has expired and I can't reload it on this machine.
To adjust the gear ratio in a 96, you have to either buy a Jet box, pay someone to sacrifice one of their Vin numbers (if someone close to you has one), be prepared to forgive them if it goes wrong, etc. and bricks the ECM.
There are multitudes of tables in the 96 that a MPH related, most if not all in the automatic trans section so for a stick car, it is important, but doesn't affect the programming tables as much.
To adjust the gear ratio in a 96, you have to either buy a Jet box, pay someone to sacrifice one of their Vin numbers (if someone close to you has one), be prepared to forgive them if it goes wrong, etc. and bricks the ECM.
There are multitudes of tables in the 96 that a MPH related, most if not all in the automatic trans section so for a stick car, it is important, but doesn't affect the programming tables as much.
#7
In order to have the speedometer and other electronic readouts read correctly, as well as the computer programming, the gear ratio has to be adjusted software wise, at least in the 96. I am going to assume the 95 is the same way. I can't look at 95 tables as my evaluation copy of the software has expired and I can't reload it on this machine.
To adjust the gear ratio in a 96, you have to either buy a Jet box, pay someone to sacrifice one of their Vin numbers (if someone close to you has one), be prepared to forgive them if it goes wrong, etc. and bricks the ECM.
There are multitudes of tables in the 96 that a MPH related, most if not all in the automatic trans section so for a stick car, it is important, but doesn't affect the programming tables as much.
To adjust the gear ratio in a 96, you have to either buy a Jet box, pay someone to sacrifice one of their Vin numbers (if someone close to you has one), be prepared to forgive them if it goes wrong, etc. and bricks the ECM.
There are multitudes of tables in the 96 that a MPH related, most if not all in the automatic trans section so for a stick car, it is important, but doesn't affect the programming tables as much.
#8
Safety Car
Back in the day was 20+ years ago.
I did find this
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...984-2004.html#
I have no idea how it affects the shift tables though. The 1996 was a 1 year only interface. The first year of OBDII and the transition to LSx Corvettes and beyond.
You could find out if it will convert the signal correctly for the ECM to make adjustments.
That just might do it
http://www.abbott-tach.com/ERA.html
http://www.atrol.com/speedometer/era.htm
I did find this
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...984-2004.html#
I have no idea how it affects the shift tables though. The 1996 was a 1 year only interface. The first year of OBDII and the transition to LSx Corvettes and beyond.
You could find out if it will convert the signal correctly for the ECM to make adjustments.
That just might do it
http://www.abbott-tach.com/ERA.html
http://www.atrol.com/speedometer/era.htm
The signal from the speed sensor is inputted into the Abbott Electronic Ratio Adapter, modified to compensate for the Variance Ratio, and outputted as the correct signal to your ECM/Speedometer.
Last edited by drcook; 01-16-2019 at 04:28 PM.
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2LZ (01-16-2019)
#10
Racer
I love my 96. Very little goes wrong with it. Changed out the coolant, replaced opti-spark and water pump, change oil frequently and just "go". I have my work done because I am 80 and it is fairly inexpensive if you deal with a private garage. Great car and fun to drive.
#13
Le Mans Master
As drcook mentioned, the issue is that 96 C4s are the one and only year of OBD2 compliance. The cheaper programming suites like Tunercat don't work with the 96, and neither do the ubiquitous recent tuners like HPtuners. If you bought a 95 you could use Tunercat with it, and there may still be some other options out there. Also, before shopping you should check your local inspection requirements. Where I live, all OBD2 cars have to do a plug-in emissions inspection every two years. That's not a problem with Jet DST (which I have), but if I had a 95 or earlier I could avoid emissions inspections altogether. If you're just doing the speedo and cat-back, then you won't run afoul of emissions inspections. It's just an inconvenience unless/until something goes wrong.
#14
Le Mans Master
The raw VSS signal from the sender on the transmission goes to the CCM and the ABS. The CCM processes the signal for the speedometer which the CCM controls, and outputs a VSS signal on the grn/wht wire for the radio, HVAC, and ECM. So to recalibrate the SPEEDO, you have to modify the code in the CCM, NOT the ECM.
This discussion has come up before. Dakota digital makes a signal conditioner that can go between the trans sender and the input to the CCM / ABS.
Changing the ECM won't affect the speedo in a 90-96 in any way. The ECM is fed speed from the CCM. You have to change the CCM. I've never seen anything in tuner pro, tuner cat, Moats, etc that works with the CCM.
This discussion has come up before. Dakota digital makes a signal conditioner that can go between the trans sender and the input to the CCM / ABS.
Changing the ECM won't affect the speedo in a 90-96 in any way. The ECM is fed speed from the CCM. You have to change the CCM. I've never seen anything in tuner pro, tuner cat, Moats, etc that works with the CCM.
#15
One thing that you will want to check out is to see if you fit better in the 95 to 96 sport seat over the regular seats. The sport seat is an option and I found that I did not fit well in the regular seat but fit great in the sport seats. If you are a large 40 year old you may find that the regular seats will feel very tight between the bolsters and can also be a challenge getting in and out of.
This was a big enough issue for myself that before I found out about the sport seat option I almost passed on the C4 because i just did not find the regular seats to work well for my size. Very happy with our '95 and best advice beyond the seat issue is to get the best 95 or 96 you can afford. Very costly to repair or replace sun damaged items both interior and exterior. The opti is vented on both the years you are looking at so this is not a big issue on these.
Great cars and well worth taking the time to find the right one for yourself. Good luck with your search. Be patient and take your time. Better to spend a little more on the front side to get a well maintained example than to jump on one that will cost thousands more down the road.
This was a big enough issue for myself that before I found out about the sport seat option I almost passed on the C4 because i just did not find the regular seats to work well for my size. Very happy with our '95 and best advice beyond the seat issue is to get the best 95 or 96 you can afford. Very costly to repair or replace sun damaged items both interior and exterior. The opti is vented on both the years you are looking at so this is not a big issue on these.
Great cars and well worth taking the time to find the right one for yourself. Good luck with your search. Be patient and take your time. Better to spend a little more on the front side to get a well maintained example than to jump on one that will cost thousands more down the road.
#16
Safety Car
My buddy who is also a big guy found it to be the opposite. The side bolsters and electronic seat controls of the sport seats were uncomfortable for more than short trips. So he took out the sport seat bottom (disconnected the electronics of course) and bought the standard seat bottom. No high sides on the standard bottoms allow him to get out easier also. His problem is not so much the overweightness (he is a bit) but that he is big in stature.
Since no one else drives the car, there is no issue about adjusting seat position.
Since no one else drives the car, there is no issue about adjusting seat position.