1965-1982 Corvette Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
#1
Drifting
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1965-1982 Corvette Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
I was checking out this 'how to' on the corvettemagazine.com website and am slightly confused by step number 17 and 18.
Why am I putting the wheel back on for step 17 and in step 18 what is the way to properly adjust the front bearings? Didn't I just put the wheel back on?
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...g-replacement/
Why am I putting the wheel back on for step 17 and in step 18 what is the way to properly adjust the front bearings? Didn't I just put the wheel back on?
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...g-replacement/
#2
Melting Slicks
I'm not sure what you're asking. Step 17 is putting the hub back on, not the wheel. The wheel goes back on after you are finished. To adjust the bearings, I spin the hub while I tighten the nut with and adjustable wrench. It doesn't take significant torque. Just tighten it until all the play is out of it. Probably 10-15 ft-lbs., although its a feel thing. Then you back off the nut just until you can get the cotter pin in. I usually drive it for a few miles, put the car back up in the air, and check the play in the bearing by wiggling the tire. If it feels like there is too much play, I adjust them again.
#4
Melting Slicks
You're right. Didn't see that. Doesn't matter though. You can reinstall the wheel at this stage if you wish. I don't. I adjust the bearings with the hub installed and without the caliper. However I also go back and check and readjust after driving a few miles.
#5
Le Mans Master
That must be a typo. The picture shows them installing the rotor and hub (one unit). Presumably the caliper can go on at this time.
It might be too late for this project, but the year-specific shop manual for your car has great instructions and pictures. It's about $25- from most vendors, and you can even order it from RockAuto.
It might be too late for this project, but the year-specific shop manual for your car has great instructions and pictures. It's about $25- from most vendors, and you can even order it from RockAuto.
#6
Team Owner
That "tighten, then loosen and re-tighten" jockeying is to make sure the bearing race is FULLY seated. Sometimes they can be stubborn...feel like it is seated, but not completely down. It takes some applied torque to create enough force to assure it is completely seated. Then the torque is released fully and the process of setting free-play is performed.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 01-20-2019 at 01:32 PM.