C5 Track Prep Interior Question
#1
C5 Track Prep Interior Question
So I am in the process of building an LS3 for my 2000 FRC. Slapping an RPM built transmission in while I'm at it. In the process of pulling the driveline I thought it was a good idea to ditch the A/C/Heater functions of the car. More so for simplicity of working on it than weight but obviously an added benefit. My question is I'm hoping for some guidance or pointing in the right direction of some information on how to get the large Climate control related items out from from the dash. I have the dash pad , the aluminum frames that hold the passenger airbag and radio, and two bolts on the lower dash cross beam, and the studs from inside the engine bay removed. The big box in the center as well as the blower motor on the passenger side are moving quite a bit but it doesn't seem to want to come completely out. Would really appreciate some advise from someone who has done this before. I have searched for a write up and come up with nothing.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Race Director
Most of us go with the sawsall/sledge hammer method, although I know a couple of guys that claim that if you follow the shop manual it will all come right out. Since I've found the used parts have no value on the open market, I just smash them out.
There are fasteners behind the engine that need to come loose. Sorry I personally don't have better answers for you
There are fasteners behind the engine that need to come loose. Sorry I personally don't have better answers for you
#4
Melting Slicks
Remove the blower motor, both ducts on either side, unplug the blower resistor, defroster duct, and rubber nipple off of the drain. Pull it towards you and rotate upwards. Be careful of the harness that runs towards the firewall on the right side. I have some that came right out and some that I had to wrestle out, but they do come out- in one piece.
The following 2 users liked this post by 3X2:
ATLZ16 (03-25-2019),
Vettemansam (03-25-2019)
#5
Burning Brakes
I’m a big fan of the hammer method. Actually the only way after you’ve installed a full cage. Joe from Phoenix warned me before we put the cage in but I thought having defrost for rain races was a nice option. That thought lasted about a year before I decided to take a hammer to it and lose 11 lbs!
The following users liked this post:
FASTZ (03-27-2019)
#6
Remove the blower motor, both ducts on either side, unplug the blower resistor, defroster duct, and rubber nipple off of the drain. Pull it towards you and rotate upwards. Be careful of the harness that runs towards the firewall on the right side. I have some that came right out and some that I had to wrestle out, but they do come out- in one piece.
All very helpful info! I definitely forgot the rubber nipple on the drain when removing the two studs on the firewall from the engine side.
#7
Racer
It can hang-up on the wiring harness that goes across the OEM cross bar. I've only been able to get one out of five AC's out in one piece. And I pulled my back out for a month on that. I usually give it about 10 minutes, then just pull out the saws and smash hammer.
#8
Melting Slicks
Yes, the ones on either side held on with those little gokd screws. 2 screws on each duct. You will need to remove the lower duct from the upper duct that is on the right side. It is hekd on with 2 plastic locjs. Just grab it and yank it off.