KurtsZ06

Three questions here...

I searched the threads and didn’t see much regarding replacing the stock shifter with a Hurst short throw. My shifter is stock, and maybe it’s a unique issue with my C6Z but going from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th is problematic. To put it plainly, it’s not a smooth shift with me hunting for the right “slot”.
Im asking for some advice from those that have made the change to a short throw or those that have knowledge about the change. I’m about to order one but if it’s not worth it, I’ll explore the linkage instead.

im still perplexed on why mine occasionally cuts ( when at operating temps ) out when pulling hard in 2nd. I’m about to order a new MAP sensor but hate to just throw parts at the problem without a solid fix. CEL code says MAP SENSOR CIRCUIT “A “ FAULT. I’ve cleaned the sensors, both, cleaned sockets and checked wiring for wear marks. It only happens at random.

Lastly, what’s the consensus on anti wear oil additives? With the problems with the valves wear related, I’m wondering why I don’t see more posts on anti wear additives being used. I currently use one product in my F250 with the 6.7 diesel on the solid experience and advice from a former Ford engineer.
i also use a product from the same manufacturer in my twin Beech, turbocharged Continental engines. Last overhaul at Woodland Beech showed both engines were at new wear specs. Mechanic praised the additives at oil change as I do them routinely. Considering that I run those engines at 100 to 80% of full power, and oil is both the lubricant and cooling ( besides air flow) , I’d say the additive did its job.

Thanks in advance for input.

73DBG

No experience with the Hurst short throw, the overwhelming recommendations on here are for MGW, I do have their short throw shifter so I can comment on it vs factory. The shifting issues with you factory set up seems/sounds like there is a problem. I’ve seen a decent amount of guys on here with tons of history and knowledge with C6z’s keep the stock shifter with its long throws and somewhat “sloppyness” for the sole purpose of not missing shifts at high RPMs/WOT. The short throw shifters can be “knotchy” and could in some cases cause a missed shift more frequently than the factory set up. Just relaying some of the advice I’ve got from guys on here with lots of history on the subject. I like my MGW, it was a little “knotchy” so I did the anti-venom mod and used one copper washer, I’m going to try 2 washers as well and go back to no washers so I can see all three options of how it feels. I’ve done a month or so with no anti venom, a few months with one washer and I’ll do a month with two washers and make my decision on what I liked best.

As for the oil oil additive I wouldn’t use that as a solution for valve guide wear, hopefully you’ve already addressed the issue and now you want to protect your investment. That being said just use a good quality synthetic that fits your use of the car. The Mobil One is good oil so using that is fine I personally use Amsoil Signature Series 5W30, did a bunch of my own research and asked lots of question on here and to others in the know with experience on choosing the best oil for your needs. Lots of good options and you’ll get a lot of different opinions on what’s good what’s bad and they will definitely vary. Someone will swear by a certain brand and another will hit you with “I wouldn’t use X brand in my lawnmower” so keep that in mind. I will say this, I’ve yet to read someone with a credible opinion say anything close to that when it comes to Amsoil, only knock is its high price, availability and moderately difficult to buy(meaning it’s not a click on amazon and it’s at your door tomorrow) as for its price to me it’s insignificant, the money I’ve spent on my vette $100 for “The Best” oil for my engine is nothing, I’d even say it’s a silly thing to justify not using a quality synthetic oil. Just some of my opinions, how I got to those opinions and some feedback on what I’ve personally experienced. I’d highly recommend sending oil samples to Blackstone labs for analysis as well, that way you can see all the details of what’s going on inside your engine and how your oils is holding up. 🇺🇸

ZF Six

I have an MGW shifter in my ZR1. I had to take the center console apart to replace my HVAC controls and figured while things were apart I may as well replace the shifter. Honestly, it wasn't a huge improvement. Yes, it's more notchy while I like but it was maybe a 10% improvement over stock. I had an 04 Z06 and replaced that shifter with an MGW and that was a huge improvement. The stock shifter in the C6 is already much better than the stock shifter in the C5 so the difference was not as drastic.

I don't regret replacing it, it just was not that big of an improvement.

KurtsZ06

I’ll be switching to Amsoil and Wix filter this weekend as per yours and others advice. The engine has had oil changes in the past, every 2500 miles using Mobil 1 so it’s at least spotless as for grime. The previous owner was ocd on the oil change intervals.
The engine has the unmolested stock heads, pre buy wiggle test showed all is tight. I’m certain I’ll replace/rebuild the heads in the future with the financial kick of my extended warranty. Might as well check the valves routinely and when that magic moment arrives, have them cough up some dough.
sounds like the short throw isn’t worth it. Thanks so much for your time and input. I’ll explore the linkage and try to fine tune it.

Unreal

Sloppy stock shift is a worn out setup, either the bushings or box is worn. Look at the Tmod custom boxes. 99% of the MGW gain and "tightness" is just the new parts. The less leverage can make getting into gears at high RPM an issue.

Pounder

MGW is a HUGE improvement !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LOURDESBELLE

I agree as well. Huge improvement after installing an MGW shifter.

meanjoe

73DBG

Well don’t just take my advice man, I don’t have a fraction of the experience that some of these guys have with vettes. Amsoil is good **** in my opinion and I definitely recommend it, as well as the MGW....but....and I’ve said this before “not all corvette forum advice should be viewed equally” just wanting to stress the point of taking recommendations but validating them with your own research as well is all.🇺🇸

KurtsZ06

Always can count on this forum for great input. I’ve got the stock shifter out and see two problem areas. Problem is I doubt they can be fixed. I’ll tinker with it more tomorrow. MGW shifter may be in my future.
Oil change completed, didn’t find anything on the magnets, but I will send oil sample out to Lab for analysis. One interesting discovery while replacing the infamous cooling tee was a small collection of oil under the air cleaner housing directly below filter. Looks like someone overfilled the sump. Maybe that could be what’s up with fault codes on MAP sensor. I cleaned the filter housing, put in new filter and any other oil residue, plus put the new map sensor in so fate will tell if that cures the cutting out issue on hard pulls.

Big thanks to those that responded.

MTPZ06

Properly aligned stock shifter works great, provided it isn’t worn out.

As for aftermarket, based on fit, finish, and feel...I’ve always been partial to MTI’s Six Shooter.

Fluid...Amsoil torque drive.

KurtsZ06

ive used Amsoil in several of my cars, especially the high performance ones. Give yourself credit, you endorse some good oil. The LS7 needs all the lubrication it can get.

KurtsZ06

Installed the MGW today and what a huge improvement over stock. It was an easy install, only took a couple of hours total. First through sixth is much easier and shift points are spot on. Beats the hell out of the OEM unit.

thanks for the heads up.

Jjagg0125

Did you get the lower box as well?

73DBG

if he bought it new from MGW that’s all they come with now, pretty sure they’ve come with complete low boxes for a while now. Only way he wouldn’t have the lower is an older used version.

TXGS507

MGW FTW.... Love mine...

jammeejamm

i have an mgw flat with lower box installed at nine thousand miles. i am not really sure what i gained is better than what i gave up.

not saying anything bad and i am certainly not unhappy with it, but after i drove it for a while all i can really say is it definitely looks cooler.

i would like to try the tmod shifter(s), but i guess i just do not care enough.

Racingswh

I think worn out vs not is one of the keys with the MGW install. I can say that the gearchanges in the Z06 with the MGW are more positive than they were in the GS without it. Now that the Z06 has a BNIB ZR1 trans installed in it shift quality has improved significantly over what it had been with the worn out trans which was grinding into 4th, unless the shift was incredibly slow and deliberate, and nearly impossible to get into reverse.

KurtsZ06

My came with the lower box, attached, was real simple to install. The kit also included several pieces of insulation and a rubber seal. Very easy to follow instructions.
the shifts now are very positive, no missing or hunting for gears up or down. I also paid for and received a new, much nicer looking shift ****.
At just 19k miles, the OEM shifter was worn. What a major improvement.

Pb82 Ronin

I may be one of the few guys that have years of experience with both shifters. I had a Hurst on my old Z. Drove it for around 9K miles before trading it in on another car. I have a MGW on my current car and they are absolutely different animals. The Hurst rattled like a ****, and no matter what I did, it never stopped rattling. The MGW has never made a peep in around 2500 miles now. It's not that they do different things, I just think that MGW has their product sorted out better than Hurst.

As far as additives, I've used ProLong in all my engines (even my 4 digit power level engines) and they have all looked brand spanking new upon tear down (regardless of mileage or usage). Word of caution though...DO NOT use an additive during break-in miles...EVER!