ZR1 oil vent catch can system problem
#1
ZR1 oil vent catch can system problem
Video easiest way to explain where have been and fixes in progress. ZR1 making 630 wHP on E-85 that twists around road course tracks...
feed back much appreciated
feed back much appreciated
#2
Team Owner
Feedback is should have ran MM setup from the start. The Elite junk is just that, junk. There seems to always be a huge misunderstanding on the filter on top of MM cans, when people say they don't want a vented can. It has a one way valve and will only ever vent if there is an over pressure situation. It is a safety system so that the system depressurizes before you damage seals/motor.
Last edited by Unreal; 04-20-2019 at 02:00 PM.
#3
Safety Car
Feedback is should have ran MM setup from the start. The Elite junk is just that, junk. There seems to always be a huge misunderstanding on the filter on top of MM cans, when people say they don't want a vented can. It has a one way valve and will only ever vent if there is an over pressure situation. It is a safety system so that the system depressurizes before you damage seals/motor.
#4
Racer
I agree, have the same one for a few years now & feel it's great quality. It works well after a HPDE. It does its job.
#5
Think have found a workable and hopefully best solution. Plan on getting the Prospeed catch can system - has 2 -10AN lines one for each valve cover vent and a single -6AN line for tying in valley and sump tank vent. Going to also keep the two elite catch cans and the clean air fill cap that have installed.
routing will be as such to allow for easy troubleshooting IF the Prospeed can needs emptied too frequently. Prospeed can mounts under driver side front fender and has a drain line as well.
coming from valley vent into one of the elite cans - coining from the sump tank clean air cap to the other elite catch can - both of those can discharges will be tied into the single Prospeed -6AN connection.
each valve cover vent will be routed directly through a dedicated -10AN line direct to Prospeed can - normal design for these two vents in their setup
prospeed can has two filter vents so both the existing throttle body vacuum port and air filter housing port will be capped off. System will be old school atmospheric vent but will allow to exactly pinpoint source of excess oil by checking all three cans independently.
Plan is to raise HP of engine slowly if heat is managed - again with a limit of 800 wHP (based on radiator capacity that car has). So far, heat seems to be very managed - car running very cool.
this sounds like a solid plan to address any oil burping and allowing to pinpoint any future problems.
routing will be as such to allow for easy troubleshooting IF the Prospeed can needs emptied too frequently. Prospeed can mounts under driver side front fender and has a drain line as well.
coming from valley vent into one of the elite cans - coining from the sump tank clean air cap to the other elite catch can - both of those can discharges will be tied into the single Prospeed -6AN connection.
each valve cover vent will be routed directly through a dedicated -10AN line direct to Prospeed can - normal design for these two vents in their setup
prospeed can has two filter vents so both the existing throttle body vacuum port and air filter housing port will be capped off. System will be old school atmospheric vent but will allow to exactly pinpoint source of excess oil by checking all three cans independently.
Plan is to raise HP of engine slowly if heat is managed - again with a limit of 800 wHP (based on radiator capacity that car has). So far, heat seems to be very managed - car running very cool.
this sounds like a solid plan to address any oil burping and allowing to pinpoint any future problems.
#6
Melting Slicks
most of the time, a catch can is just a band-aid for a blown engine. Its for people that want to keep driving when they are blowing oil out of the engine, just catch it and pour it back in or throw it away etc..
to fix the 'problem' the engine needs to be fixed, set the motor up so that it no longer blows out oil. That means a healthy bottom end and a proper PCV system. By installing a bunch of cans and lines all over the place you have added significant volume to the crankcase and made the PCV system's job even more difficult.
implies ->
The pressure created from blow-by is typically what drives oil out of the crankcase in the first place. If the piston rings and piston/wall clearance is set so large that this is considered 'normal' then you may need to investigate a return-style can similar to what is installed on early 90's turbocharged vehicles (a simple tube that runs back to the crankcase delivers oil that was blown out during boost back to the oil pan)
The next idea here is that you need a pressure logger on the crankcase so you can fix the issue and visibly verify that it has been and stays resolved. Crankcase pressure management is an essential component of high performance engine configurations. Modify the orifice and wet baffle of the engine until satisfactory performance is achieved.
to fix the 'problem' the engine needs to be fixed, set the motor up so that it no longer blows out oil. That means a healthy bottom end and a proper PCV system. By installing a bunch of cans and lines all over the place you have added significant volume to the crankcase and made the PCV system's job even more difficult.
implies ->
The pressure created from blow-by is typically what drives oil out of the crankcase in the first place. If the piston rings and piston/wall clearance is set so large that this is considered 'normal' then you may need to investigate a return-style can similar to what is installed on early 90's turbocharged vehicles (a simple tube that runs back to the crankcase delivers oil that was blown out during boost back to the oil pan)
The next idea here is that you need a pressure logger on the crankcase so you can fix the issue and visibly verify that it has been and stays resolved. Crankcase pressure management is an essential component of high performance engine configurations. Modify the orifice and wet baffle of the engine until satisfactory performance is achieved.
#7
100% sure the oil burp problem was due to too high of level in sump tank and sloshing that occurred at track cornering G forces. The additional two cans are just for troubleshooting and really just wide spots in the line. There extra vapor volume in the system for sure but not’s not a problem. Prospeed can has been use successfully in LS9 motors making well over 1000 HP - so it’s a bit of overkill but need to insure any oil venting gets caught in the can vs. getting dumped on the track. Road course guys tend to frown on oil on the the track surface. E85, the blower and the LS9 external sump tank all add uniqueness to the vent system that need to be addressed. The stock PCV system still allows oil to get in the intake at stock power levels - trying to avoid that AND prevent oil from getting on the ground.
built more than few 383 stroked SBC back 25 years ago - all had very good PCV systems that handled the then whopping 500 HP that engine was making....without getting oil back in intake or dumping on the ground. LS9 is new territory but not completely foreign...
built more than few 383 stroked SBC back 25 years ago - all had very good PCV systems that handled the then whopping 500 HP that engine was making....without getting oil back in intake or dumping on the ground. LS9 is new territory but not completely foreign...
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Assuming you have everything routed correctly and have no other issues, then excess oil in the dry sump tank can definitely cause this. On my C6Z race car if I pour in "an extra quart" I get excessive oil in the single MM catch can due to overfill and sloshing at high lateral Gs (usually 2.5+). Keeping it at normal level (~half way up dipstick) significantly reduces this and makes it very manageable (empty once a day). I also keep my system very simple (standard Mighty Mouse mild setup). Anytime it becomes excessive then I have either overfilled the system (even slightly) or I know there is another problem.
And I wouldn't be cranking up the juice until you have more seat time in the car. Like alot more seat time. There is no need for it, you aren't even close to the limits of the car and at the higher power levels you are targeting everything will start to wear and break very rapidly, and heat mitigation will become a big issue (especially as you get quicker). Just my two cents as a racer and instructor. In fact, once the car is sorted, I would stay at the power level you are at for at least a year. If you can consistently break 2 mins at a track like Watkins Glen then perhaps you consider bumping power a smidgeon. MORE POWA is not the answer to going quicker (at least not for a long time). Seat time is.
And I wouldn't be cranking up the juice until you have more seat time in the car. Like alot more seat time. There is no need for it, you aren't even close to the limits of the car and at the higher power levels you are targeting everything will start to wear and break very rapidly, and heat mitigation will become a big issue (especially as you get quicker). Just my two cents as a racer and instructor. In fact, once the car is sorted, I would stay at the power level you are at for at least a year. If you can consistently break 2 mins at a track like Watkins Glen then perhaps you consider bumping power a smidgeon. MORE POWA is not the answer to going quicker (at least not for a long time). Seat time is.
#9
Well aware more seat time is needed - the HP increases are WAY in the future but want to design everything to be able to handle when/if it happens. With car basically stock and Hoosier R7’s - managed a 2:32 lap at COTA first trip there - lot’s of traffic as well. Got a lot of seat time on various cars while working overseas - both Bahrain GP and Yas Marina were but a few hours away. Certainly need as much seat time as possible and don’t need to have another track weekend shutdown again due to oil burping....or other simple mechanical issues.....
for the one session did get to run before oil problem - car was completely different feel even on street tires with all the modifications made - going to take time to where I can use them all.....cornering ability is night and day different....coil overs, sphericals, aero, etc etc...
for the one session did get to run before oil problem - car was completely different feel even on street tires with all the modifications made - going to take time to where I can use them all.....cornering ability is night and day different....coil overs, sphericals, aero, etc etc...