Jack605

69 Corvette that has a 350 out of an early truck rebuilt by previous owner.

I am finally thinking about looking into why the engine is burning oil, I am probably just going to change the PCV valve because I am not even sure how to check to see if it is working or not and they are cheep.

I am going to drop the oil pan when I change the oil just to give it a once over from the underside not 100% sure what I will see but thought I would look.

The other issue I have is with excess oil pressure so I want to put eye's on the oil pump, oil pressure gauge is usually close to being pegged high until oil warms up.

looking for thoughts issues and steps to track down my problem.

FYI, exhaust is not blue but it does have a strong odor.

Jack

DAD111

What do the plugs look like?

Eliredandblack

My 73 with a stock 359 run high oil pressure (70) until the engine warms up, then goes down to 30. Ernie at Willcox says the older oil gauges are not that accurate. I put a new oil line to the gauge, which must be a repro as it’s face is not faded like the other gauges, clock. Let’s see what Ernie has to say.

Jack605

Plugs looked good last year when I had them out, I do have to pull one or two I am still tuning the carb.

Jack

DAD111

If you are burning oil it will show up on the plugs. Are you loosing oil on the stick between oil changes?

jackson

smoke: Common first thing to go south is valve stem seals ... especially the OE-TYPE O-ring seals ... then valve guides.

hi-pressure (1): rebuilt motor-common for builder to install hi-vol / hi-press pump.

hi-pressure (2): pump's interrnal bypass valve may be stuck or spring too strong.

derekderek

I shimmed the bypass spring on a slant six a million years ago. Gauge pegged and oil filter exploded. So if somebody was trying to raise oil pressure it is easy to raise too high. Put a new pump in. Set screen 3/8ths above pan floor then replace the intake seals. Truck motors usually have more miles at heavier throttle than Corvette motors.

Jack605

I am going to work on this over the weekend between work and school two nights a week just don't have enough time.

Thanks for all your input lots to look at.

Jack

Rescue Rogers

I would degrease and pressure wash all the dirt and grease off the motor and tranny as best you could. Then put it on stands wipe down the underside and get everything clean.

Then change the oil and filter

Then leave it in the air and start it. With everything clean you can see where the leaks are after a few minutes of run time and it will show up fast.

As for the smell. If its still cold and if the choke is closed, it will be pig rich and stink bad until it warms up and the choke opens

bashcraft

What weight oil are you running?

Jack605

She is clean sat all winter with only a couple of drips.

Jack

Jack605

10W-30

I just bought 5w-30 for when I change the oil.

Jack

bashcraft

That should help.. What is the pressure when hot?

Jack605

When hot it comes down to around 50 if the gauge is right.

Jack

Kacyc3

are you using an additive or hyd roller cam?

Jack605

No and No

Jack

doorgunner

Since you have limited time don't remove the oil pan YET.....that could cause lots of leaks/re-do's to reseal the pan. Do the easier things first that the members recommended. Try connecting a different oil pressure gauge under the hood to verify the high reading on the dash gauge.

itsforfun

You should be using a oil which has additives to protect flat tappet lifters from excessive wear. Generally, a non-synthetic diesel oil, i.e. Rotella or Delo CJ-4, 15 W 40.
Are you experiencing oil loss, and if so, how much? Pulling the oil pan sounds excessive at this point. Follow #9 and get more details!

bashcraft

DAD111

As others have said + need a oil that has zinc in it for flat tapet cans or use a zinc additive with the oil you have. If it were mine I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure. You have great oil pressure, it's when it reads low then its time to pull the pan. My 72 C10 does the same thing .