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My 64 no longer has a ballast resistor. Does the Breakerless SE system work without a ballast resistor? I know the Pertronix does.
No. It is designed to plug into a completely stock environment with OEM coil, ballast resistor, plugs and plug wires.
I know the Breakerless SE does not require a special coil, I am not sure about the Pertronix?
You'll need a coil appropriate for use without the ballast resistor in the case of the Pertronix III
The Pertronix Flamethrower series offers several selections. Years ago the coils were bad with a high failure rate - the later versions seem to be fine.
I do not want to retro-fit a ballast resistor to the 64 at this point.
Then you've made your choice -- Pertronix.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-14-2019 at 02:30 PM.
FMI= for my information. So, is there a problem having a ballast resistor? How do you eliminate a ballast resistor on a "points" car? I've never understood the purpose of a ballast resistor, but if the guy on the internet is correct, a ballast resistor reduces the voltage going to the coil, from 12v to 8-9v so it doesn't overheat. It must do more?
Its a lot more than reducing voltage and some can wax eloquent for many paragraphs about its function but it IS necessary on a points car with a standard coil...
I won't get into it all here again....you can search the internet as easily as I; in this context its a critical path item to the OP's decision, no ballast resistor - then no Breakerless SE; its Pertronix -- and the later versions at that.
You're right, I can do that. it sounded over-simplified to me, so I asked.
Is one system really superior to the other? Will one system make my car run faster, better or ??? than the other? Installation of the breakerless SE system seems to be very, very simple and even a novice can handle it. Pertronix looks a little harder, but not much.
A ton of stuff on both products in older forum threads....none of them will do any better than a new set of points/condensor; the chief benefit is not having to do regular maintenance on the newer devices which, as little as classics are driven is nearly a moot point.
Pertronix got a bad name early on for mysterious failures with no apparent cause - the first version had few electrical protections from spikes, reversed polarity and you-name-it....then came an onslaught of owners that did bad installs and caused their own failures. The result being the device got a undeserved bad rap (IMO). The latest versions are very robust but still require modifications from an original ignition setup.
On the other hand, the Breakerless SE (which I now recommend without reservation) requires only a spinal cord and no frontal lobes to install. NOTHING in the original ignition configuration changes except for the replacement of the points - nearly foolproof... It is what I run...
Neither device will regrow hair, increase your performance in the bedroom, eliminate belly fat or reduce unsightly wrinkles...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-14-2019 at 04:50 PM.
FMI= for my information. So, is there a problem having a ballast resistor? How do you eliminate a ballast resistor on a "points" car? I've never understood the purpose of a ballast resistor, but if the guy on the internet is correct, a ballast resistor reduces the voltage going to the coil, from 12v to 8-9v so it doesn't overheat. It must do more?
BH
Given the sum and substance of the voluminous posts on the subject to which Mr. Fink refers, evidently neither do many of us. The term "ballast" when used in the electric field as opposed to the nautical always means to limit current flow, and is commonly done with a simple resistor in the case of automobiles but also with inductors, as in the case of a florescent lamp ballast. The concept is the same, current needs to be limited to the optimum value to prolong the life of the appurtenant devices and units attached thereto. (point set & coil).
Or some other bullshit along those lines.
Mr. Fink's take is about the best advice you can expect to receive.
This is not to tell you what you should do, but to tell you what I would do. If the rest of the system is stock, I'd install a ballast resistor and a breakerless SE with everything else remaining stock. My second choice would be exactly the same except use stock points and condensor. My last choice would be to install a Pertronix and special coils and anything else. The SE system cannot be detected from stock without lifting the distributor cap. I have one car running SE and one using points and condensor and both are fine. With the SE you can also carry a set of points and condensor and swap it back over for emergency or troubleshooting. I've never had to do that with either SE or points, but it's an option.
Given the sum and substance of the voluminous posts on the subject to which Mr. Fink refers, evidently neither do many of us. The term "ballast" when used in the electric field as opposed to the nautical always means to limit current flow, and is commonly done with a simple resistor in the case of automobiles but also with inductors, as in the case of a florescent lamp ballast. The concept is the same, current needs to be limited to the optimum value to prolong the life of the appurtenant devices and units attached thereto. (point set & coil).
Or some other bullshit along those lines.
Mr. Fink's take is about the best advice you can expect to receive.
Good luck.
Dan
You are correct, friend. The ballast resistor on our cars is there to limit the primary current in the system to prevent the coil from turning into a toaster oven.
(The old wives' tale about the ballast acting like a voltage regulator won't seem to die. The coil constantly sees varying voltages from 6 to 12 to 200 volts across the primary windings every ignition event.
There's an ignition sticky in C3 Tech that explains all this.)
Excellent advice from everyone and I appreciate it. I'm just trying to get away from the dual points of the 340 HP and the SE sounds like the path to follow.
On the other hand, the Breakerless SE (which I now recommend without reservation) requires only a spinal cord and no frontal lobes to install.
Love the verbiage. I'm putting that away for future use
One of the main uses of the ballast resistor was to stop the coil from overheating when the key was left on without the motor running. The electronic inserts will not do that, they will not keep feeding the coil.
I prefer the unit with the rev limiter. I have helped friends install at least 10 and have not seen a failure over the last 8 years.
The Pertronix II can be used with or without a ballast resistor depending on the coil selected;
A Pertronix III requires a full 12V (No ballast resistor); all this is covered on their web site....the only advantage the III has over the Breakerless ia a built-in rev limiter... As, I said, if you are replacing the ballast resistor go with the Breakerless SE
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-15-2019 at 06:07 AM.
The Breakerless SE module is designed to work with your stock coil and ballast resister. Remove points, install module and you're good to go. The one wire SE setup looks completely stock until you remove the distributor cap.
Breakerles SE it is. Thanks guys, and a special thanks to Frankie the the great wiring diagrams.
My 64 currently has a Pertronix III setup in it, wired like this. I am going to use this system on my 56 BelAir, and put a Breakerless SE in the 64 Vette.
Did you have any problems setting initial timing with a timing light using the Petronics. I had an experience with one and the timing kept jumping all around trying to set the initial timing. I don't know if the car had other ground problems but I never figured it out.
Did you have any problems setting initial timing with a timing light using the Petronics. I had an experience with one and the timing kept jumping all around trying to set the initial timing. I don't know if the car had other ground problems but I never figured it out.
I never tried. The car ran great when I bought it, so I have never had a reason to put a timing light on it.
05-14-2019, 02:21 PM
Breakerless SE vs Pertronix
The ballast resistor on our cars is there to limit the primary current in the system to prevent the coil from turning into a toaster oven.
