High Flow water pump
#1
High Flow water pump
My '64 has a 350 Vortec installed in 2004.
Any of you have a similar motor and what high flow water pump would you recommend?
Here in Phoenix in summer the temp rises when at some of the longer lights or stuck in traffic heading north out of town on I-17...on a Friday or south on Sunday...
Any of you have a similar motor and what high flow water pump would you recommend?
Here in Phoenix in summer the temp rises when at some of the longer lights or stuck in traffic heading north out of town on I-17...on a Friday or south on Sunday...
Popular Reply
06-06-2019, 10:20 PM
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I take it you were nowhere to be found when the rest of us were taking Thermodynamics class.
#2
Team Owner
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the faster the water flows though the radiator the LESS time it has to reject the heat. I am sure Harrison radiator spent countless hours and money researching that with GM in there water pumps
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64SilverbluePhx (06-06-2019)
#3
If high flow is not the solution which water pump is? Radiator has been pulled out, sent to radiator shop, checked and it checks out clean...in like new condition.
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#5
Thermostat was also replaced with a 180 degree.
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64SilverbluePhx (06-07-2019)
#7
Melting Slicks
That question asked...I have no idea what the effect of high-volume water pump would be, good, bad, or neutral.
#8
Team Owner
"The idea that too much water flow causes overheating is a myth. That means that having a high flow or high volume pump doesn't cause the water to pass through the radiator too quickly for it to be properly cooled".
From: https://shop.championcooling.com/art...low-water-pump
From: https://shop.championcooling.com/art...low-water-pump
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#9
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Factoid (06-14-2019)
#10
Racer
I have a high flow water pump on my car. Works great for me, but I also have a properly sealed shroud and a 6 blade fan. In your case, it sounds like more air flow through the radiator is the place to start. Is the shroud sealed all the way around the radiator?
#12
Drifting
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USMC
OP,
I run an aluminum Weiand, in conjunction with my DeWitts and electric fan on my ‘66 with a 385HP crate motor. No engine driven fan, and with the electric fan, I save some HP and it looks cleaner (IMHO). In Tampa heat, it never breaks 190F...
What specifically is your issue?
I run an aluminum Weiand, in conjunction with my DeWitts and electric fan on my ‘66 with a 385HP crate motor. No engine driven fan, and with the electric fan, I save some HP and it looks cleaner (IMHO). In Tampa heat, it never breaks 190F...
What specifically is your issue?
#13
Safety Car
If your engine and water pump are mechanically sound you need more air flow. You could add a pusher fan on the front of the radiator, a puller up inside the shroud, or if you're not worried about originality a slightly larger pulley on the crankshaft that will spin your fan and water pump faster.
I fought the water flowing too fast myth for years building race engines. Everyone has heard that so guys would put restrictor rings in the thermostat housing. Which I would take out and throw away. I never took thermodynamics but I know if you take a boat for example with an open cooling system, meaning the water the boat is in, you have to control the flow of water or it will never warm up. Certainly doesn't overheat because of too much flow.
I fought the water flowing too fast myth for years building race engines. Everyone has heard that so guys would put restrictor rings in the thermostat housing. Which I would take out and throw away. I never took thermodynamics but I know if you take a boat for example with an open cooling system, meaning the water the boat is in, you have to control the flow of water or it will never warm up. Certainly doesn't overheat because of too much flow.
#14
Thank you all for your responses! Apologies for my delayed response.
solid axel it came down to an Edelbrock 8810 or a Flow Kooler 1888. Had a hunch Loper’s Speedshop might have the Edelbrock in stock. They did and had everything needed to do the install. I was advised to put a 190 thermostat in so that went home with me too. I ordered the factory 180 thermostat that the Vortec came w GM 10202456, and then found the Flow Kooler BRA 330-180 Robertshaw thermostat. Ordered that too. If the Robertshaw fits I will put that in.
MikeM it’s a 7 blade fan.
Drothgeb yes fan has shroud and has the 427 rubber seal on top of radiator. My friend Dave added a hose with a slit down the length of the hose and put it on the rear top of the radiator support to help seal the gap on his ‘64. I also filled side gaps and gap at bottom of radiator support to seal those areas on mine. The only remaining gap is where the lower radiator hose comes up off the lower part of the radiator. I will block that off too and am hunting for the appropriate piece rubber seal for that.
USMC 0802 issue is even before the Classic Auto Air system was installed car would begin to heat up the temp gauge at traffic light or sitting in traffic. BTW to you and others here who have served, Thank You for your service!!!
Robert61 when the Classic Auto Air was installed I had the double fans option installed in front of the radiator.
Last Saturday was 101 here and w A/C on, the temp went up to the first white mark past 180 on the stock temp gauge. And stayed there. It would have gone higher without the two A/C fans on while the ‘64 was idling in my driveway after I readjusted the carb for summer temps w vacuum gauge.
Another note it is a clutch fan and when engine is not running it can be rotated w a bit of pushing so it seems to be working ok. I will post pics of the double fan setup for the A/C and the temp gauge tomorrow.
Will likely be installing the water pump Saturday.
One more question when refilling the car w antifreeze do I just pour it in to the expansion tank? Since the radiator has no cap...
Thank you all for your input!!!
P.S. As soon as car is moving again temp goes back to 180 on the gauge and stays there...
solid axel it came down to an Edelbrock 8810 or a Flow Kooler 1888. Had a hunch Loper’s Speedshop might have the Edelbrock in stock. They did and had everything needed to do the install. I was advised to put a 190 thermostat in so that went home with me too. I ordered the factory 180 thermostat that the Vortec came w GM 10202456, and then found the Flow Kooler BRA 330-180 Robertshaw thermostat. Ordered that too. If the Robertshaw fits I will put that in.
MikeM it’s a 7 blade fan.
Drothgeb yes fan has shroud and has the 427 rubber seal on top of radiator. My friend Dave added a hose with a slit down the length of the hose and put it on the rear top of the radiator support to help seal the gap on his ‘64. I also filled side gaps and gap at bottom of radiator support to seal those areas on mine. The only remaining gap is where the lower radiator hose comes up off the lower part of the radiator. I will block that off too and am hunting for the appropriate piece rubber seal for that.
USMC 0802 issue is even before the Classic Auto Air system was installed car would begin to heat up the temp gauge at traffic light or sitting in traffic. BTW to you and others here who have served, Thank You for your service!!!
Robert61 when the Classic Auto Air was installed I had the double fans option installed in front of the radiator.
Last Saturday was 101 here and w A/C on, the temp went up to the first white mark past 180 on the stock temp gauge. And stayed there. It would have gone higher without the two A/C fans on while the ‘64 was idling in my driveway after I readjusted the carb for summer temps w vacuum gauge.
Another note it is a clutch fan and when engine is not running it can be rotated w a bit of pushing so it seems to be working ok. I will post pics of the double fan setup for the A/C and the temp gauge tomorrow.
Will likely be installing the water pump Saturday.
One more question when refilling the car w antifreeze do I just pour it in to the expansion tank? Since the radiator has no cap...
Thank you all for your input!!!
P.S. As soon as car is moving again temp goes back to 180 on the gauge and stays there...
Last edited by 64SilverbluePhx; 06-14-2019 at 01:59 AM.
#15
Team Owner
You guys crack me up!
Doesnt anyone talk pulleys (underdrive or overdrive)? Unless you are going electric! I will have to go find that thermodynamic thread for entertainment!
Doesnt anyone talk pulleys (underdrive or overdrive)? Unless you are going electric! I will have to go find that thermodynamic thread for entertainment!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 06-14-2019 at 02:34 AM.
#17
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Back in the days of racing flathead Ford's, guys used to shave every other impeller blade off the dual water pumps to slow down water flow to keep the engine from overheating. I don't think thermodynamics was even invented back then.
Last edited by MikeM; 06-14-2019 at 08:20 AM.
#18
Safety Car
That's why I'm using a high volume 409 Chevy water pump on the flat head I'm building for a model a project.
#19
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Why is it? You lost me here.
#20
Safety Car
Flat head water pumps don't have good seals and don't work great with a sealed system, at least that is my understanding. I put the 409 water pump on to get good flow and be able to run a normal sealed cooling system. We'll see.
That and I'm putting power steering, AC, and an alternator on it. I didn't want all of the accessories on thos funky water pump bearings.
That and I'm putting power steering, AC, and an alternator on it. I didn't want all of the accessories on thos funky water pump bearings.
Last edited by Robert61; 06-14-2019 at 10:22 AM.