jrp1588

My car's AC has always leaked out quickly and worked poorly the 2 years I've owned it. Recently I replaced the seals at the compressor, and the high and low pressure port valve bodies. The system held vacuum like a champ after that, but when I recharged it with the proper measured amount, the air blew kind of cool at best.

I tore back into it, replaced the air dryer and the orifice tube. The old air dryer had a noticeable 'swishing' sound when I moved it that the new one doesn't have. The old orifice was completely clogged with soft dark gray...fluff.

"Ah ha," I thought. "Here's the problem"

Long story short, buttoned it all back up with the new orifice and dryer, vacuumed it out, charged again. It's even WORSE than before.

• Compressor clutch is engaged and spinning.
• Vents adjustment seems to be behaving normally
• Fans are blowing, behaves the same moving or still
• Condenser is clean

I'm this close to bending over and letting a shop have their way with me. Should I have flushed the system perhaps? Is there more fluff in the system that just immediately clogged the new orifice?

ncali

it sounds like the tube is clogged again. do you know what the pressure readings were when you charged the system.
all that stuff clogging the tube could be from a damaged compressor

jrp1588

I didn't really look into it, but I would have expected metal from a busted compressor. This was soft and fluffy, wet...like a pulp.

Unfortunately the gauges I borrowed didn't include the proper adapter to connect to the cans, so I was using a cheap recharge kit to do the actual filling. It kind of felt like it clogged again frankly. It was pulling the refrigerant really well on the first can, low side was getting REALLY cold. Midway through can 2, it was pulling refrigerant really slowly and the low-side was only cool.

Maybe worth reporting that on my way home today, I was playing with the climate control (dual climate 2001 model in case it's relevant.) I turned it all the way to hot, then to cold a couple times. After a couple cycles of that, the air was blowing at least moderately cool. Maybe it's an unrelated fluke, or maybe the vents are an issue.

CARRJET

you probably need to change your condenser, the small passageways get clogged from debris from failing compressors

ncali

Unfortunately the gauges I borrowed didn't include the proper adapter to connect to the cans, so I was using a cheap recharge kit to do the actual filling. It kind of felt like it clogged again frankly. It was pulling the refrigerant really well on the first can, low side was getting REALLY cold. Midway through can 2, it was pulling refrigerant really slowly and the low-side was only cool.

The low side is the side that would feel cool. are you sure you have a proper amount of refrigerant added?

GCG

Without knowing both pressures, trying to troubleshoot this is like being blind.


Before you do that, it might be worth it to get a set of manifold gauges. Doesn't have to be uber expensive, you can get a set from Harbor Freight or get a free loaner from an auto parts store.

The pressures will allow you to get a better idea of what's happening, so you can move in the right direction without having to guess.

Check your pressures against the chart below (you'll need to determine ambient temperature and humidity first). Make sure you take your readings with:

• Engine @ 2000 rpm
• A/C in coldest setting
• Fan at maximum speed
• Both windows down
• Thermometer in center air vent

jrp1588

Yeah, I actually had a manifold gauge on hand. I got almost all the way through the job and realized the damn hose wouldn't connect to the refrigerant cans, even though I thought I got the right adapter.

Anyway, the pressure on the el-cheapo gauge was reading high though. My dad is a retired AC tech (but he worked on the stationary kind you find in buildings.) He said it sounds like a blockage, and suggested we try flushing out the system. I'll see if I can find the proper adapter so I can actually use the gauges between now and then.

GCG

I was adding a chart and some more details to my post above when you replied. Check it out.

You would need to determine both pressures. If the system has some degree of blockage, typically its high will be high and its low will be low. I'm sure your dad mentioned it to you

jrp1588

I'll take a look at it once I get the proper adapter and borrow the gauges again. Anyone have experience replacing the condenser? Rock auto wants $165 for the ACdelco, but ~$75 for aftermarket pieces. I always go OE if it's only a little more, but that's a lot more than a little.

ncali

It would also be a big help if you posted any DIC codes.. You may have an actuator keeping the heat door open.

jrp1588

I do have B0441 and B0361 showing up as history codes (driver's side actuator.) If it's bad, I'd be a little annoyed since I just replaced both actuators a year ago. Either way, that wouldn't prevent the passenger side from blowing cold, right?

jrp1588

After doing a lot of reading, I decided to just order a new condenser (and a new orifice since they're cheap). I rechecked the clogged orifice, and there's no sign of metal, and the compressor isn't noisy at all. There also was definitely some kind of loose material swishing around in the accumulator/dryer. I think the desiccant bag burst and clogged the orifice and the condenser. While I've got it apart, I plan to flush the rest of the system, but everything I read said not to bother trying to flush a modern condenser.

Kicking myself hard for believing the guy I bought it from that the AC worked, but it was the dead of winter, so I couldn't really check.

Bill Curlee

PLEASE read and post the DTCs for the HVAC System. I need to see if you have any BLEND DOOR DTCs. The blend doors actually control the AC outlet temp. Your AC could be working perfectly fine BUT, if the blend doors are stuck on heat, it going to blow HOT air.

Read and post those DTCs Hopefully you don't have any blend door DTCs

Do you have a Dual climate system or a manual system?

Bill

jrp1588

See my post above. I have 2 history codes for the driver's side actuator, and I have dual climate. I actually replaced this actuator already, but when I clear the history codes, they come right back, so I suspect the new one has ALREADY failed. When I clear the codes, I can hear it turning trying to re-index itself, then it'll make a click that sounds a bit...jammy. I wouldn't think that would effect the passenger side though.

I did order a new actuator as well. Not looking forward to squashing myself up in the footwell again. I pulled the dash last fall to change the passenger side one. That might actually be easier.

Bill Curlee

Pull the actuator off the shaft and manually place it in the COLD position. See what the temps are for that side

Robrote

Go to HF and buy a cheap set of gauges. That will tell you if you have a clogged system or the compressor is not pumping. You're throwing the parts cannon at it and that is costly.

jrp1588

I'll borrow my dad's gauges again this weekend. I may not be able to fill the thing properly without the adapter, but I can at least check operating pressures.

ncali

a set of gauges at HF is 60.00 . it comes with the correct valves, hoses. You wont need an adapter. If the orifice tube was clear the condenser
may be clear also. Blow some air through it if you have it apart.
Blend doors could have been the trouble from the start

jrp1588

Orifice was 100% clogged when I had the system open, that's why I suspect the condenser is probably clogged as well. The HF gauges include the fittings to connect to the high and low ports, but not the tap for the can. I bought a tap from Autozone that looked like the correct 1/4" flare to connect to the yellow hose on the manifold gauges I borrowed, but for some reason it wouldn't go together. While I've got the gauges back this weekend, I'll try to sort out that situation.

As for the blend doors, why would drivers side only codes affect the passenger side's air? All vents are blowing hot.

Robrote

A couple things. The new cans of refrigerant have a recessed seal. If you have a tap that is not made for it, you need an adapter. They are about 3 bucks. If you had trouble connecting the hoses, they can be a bugger some times to snap on. Also, make sure you have the valves closed on the connectors and the manifold before you connect them, or you'll get a big surprise.