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Thanks! Have replaced the flasher and not the problem.
Am going to replace all fuses, even though do not appear to be burned.
Couple of sizes are not clear on the bulk head. Do you know which size fuses from top to bottom?
But always, always, check these connectors under the steering column first thing - make sure the colors match going in and out and the wires are pushed in TIGHTLY:
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 06-21-2019 at 11:41 AM.
The turn signals are not fused unless someone added one besides the fuse box. You're wasting your time changing them. if your brake lights are working it's probably not the connectors either but I certainly would check them. the connection wire coming up from the flasher would be the only one that would stop the flashers and allow the brake lights to work. quick test, put on the brake lights and move your flasher signal left and right does that brake light go out? If so you're not getting voltage from the flasher up to the turn signal. A voltmeter or test light would narrow that down pretty quickly for you. Anytime the key is on, you should have 12 volts on one side of the flasher
Sorry for not answering you sooner but have been gone. Hopefully will be able to look at it today.
Do want to thank you for your input and will definitely let you know what I find out.
Here is what I did: Had the ignition turned on and wife stepped on and held brake peddle, both brake lights came on. Had her keep foot on peddle and activated the left turn signal,brake light went off but no turn signal light. Did the same for the right with same results.
I'm not very good with electric, so, if you could direct me as to my next move, would really appreciate the help.
Thanks
You have no voltage coming up from the flasher. Either a bad flasher, or bad connection. You could have a broken wire or loose connection between the flasher and the turn signal connector over the steering wheel. You turn signal switch is interrupting the brake light contact as it should, but your flasher voltage isn't replacing it. Remove the flasher and measure voltage on the two prong holes in the fuse box the flasher came out of. One of those should have 12volts anytime the key is on. The other should not. We know that your wiring from the turn signal to the back AND the grounds are good or your brake lights wouldn't work.
Summary, you either don't have 12v going to the flasher, or you have a bad flasher, or a lost connection between the flasher and the turn signal wire. It's usually an orange or a black wire with orange stripe, but i'm not sure about the 60, I"ll see if it says on my diagram.
Edited to remove incorrect info about flasher clicking.
OK, I found it and if you look at Frankie's picture it's the yellow wire that is the output from the flasher up to the turn signal that causes the problem you have. Make sure both sides of that connector pins are pushed all the way in and making good contact. Could still be a bad flasher or corroded or bad contacts at the flasher connection on the fuse panel. Forget what I said about feeling the click, if that wire is not connected, or if you don't have 12v, or if the flasher is bad you won't get a click because there's no circuit to complete the ground at the other side of the lamps to cause the flasher to flash.
Just finished checking the flasher socket and there are 12 volts present and then checked the wires and also shows 12 volts. Not sure how to physically check the flasher itself, brand new, to see whether it is working or not. Any idea? Still no turn signals!.
If you have 12 volts on both those yellow wires at the connector for the turn signals, you may have a bad turn signal switch internal connection. I also would try another flasher first before I got into the switch, as Frankie said earlier
I have no idea of your experience or skill level, but if you are willing there is a way to check the turn signal switch.
KEY OFF, disconnect the turn signal connector shown in the picture (OR just pull the flasher out of the circuit instead of opening the connector), connect your red OHMMETER lead to the yellow wire pin going up toward the turn signal switch. Connect the black lead on the meter to a good ground. With the turn signal switch in the center it should read OPEN (no continuity). Move the turn signal to the left and the meter should read very low ohms ( resistance of the left brake/turn signal bulb), then move signal switch to the right, you should get the same low resistance reading. Back to the center and it should again read open.
Did as you suggested.
KEY OFF; Proceeded to connect the red OHMMETER lead to the yellow wire pin going into steering column to the turn signal switch and the black OHMMETER lead to a good ground. The meter read 1. Moved the turn signal switch to the left signal and no movement on the meter, stayed at 1. Moved the turn signal switch to the right signal and no movement on the meter, stayed at 1.
Does this mean the only thing remaining is the turn signal switch in the column? Or are there other things to look at?
06-21-2019, 08:00 AM
'60 turn signals stopped working
