My convertible top torsion straps were shredded on my 2013 427 Convertible and the top was hitting the tonneau cover. I made the mistake of buying new torsion straps for about $100 from a online GM parts supplier. Man...talk about overpriced for a couple of poorly made elastic straps. They weren't even the same length, the holes were kinda random and the material alone must have cost a whopping $0.10! Give me a break!

I went to a local industrial supply hardware store and bought some 5/32" bungee cord material along with some 3/8" hog rings. It cost me a couple of bucks. I also got a few #6 5/8" long screws to replace the very short screws that anchored the lower part of the torsion strap . I made new straps as shown in the pics and used the #6 screws to install them and they work great! The longer screws made it much easier to install the replacement torsion straps. Once you secure the bottom anchor using the #6 screw, then you simply stretch the homemade torsion strap over the head of the original pop rivet head (as seen in the pic) and you are done. The torsion strap is always under tension in the up or down position so it will not come off the pop rivet head.

First, I made new torsion straps with two strands of 5/32" bungee between the loops and they were about 3-3/4" long. They did not have the pull necessary to move the rear window out of the way of the tonneau cover. For my second try, I made new straps that has 3 strands of the 5/32" bungee cord between the loops and the overall length of the strap is 3-1/4" as seen in the pic. I used hog ring pliers to compress the 3/8" hog ring over the bungee cord and then used regular pliers and my vise to put the squeeze on the hog ring to flatten it out and to hold everything in place.

To install them. first I secured the lower anchor of the new torsion strap using the #6 screw and a 1/4" nut driver. Then I stretched the torsion strap and pulled the loop at the top end of the strap over the original pop rivet head and that's it. It literally takes a couple of minutes to install them. The tonneau cover clears the window by over 1/2" now.

The hog rings don't come in contact with the convertible top. They are below the ribs that support the top. Just in case, I took off any sharp edges with a sander before I installed them. The new torsion straps do not cause any humps in the convertible top when it is down...it is smooth. A simple and easy solution to this common problem...I will see how they hold up over the long run but I think they may work out well.

 

Excellent fix! I will have to revisit this when I get fed up with holding my convertible top window out of the way with my hand every time.

 

I don’t have a convertible but it’s great when someone takes the time to share their wealth of knowledge on the forum!!! Thank you

 

Funny thing......I just read this post and thought the exact same thing. Not quite sure why I read it other than curiosity. How nice to have someone take time to share a wonderful fix.
This is a great Forum!

 

What part of the cloth top are you lifting up to get to the strap

 

Excellent write-up and thanks for sharing.
Good info to have, just in case.

 

The top is about half way down when I did the work. The old strap and anchor points can be accessed this way without much of a problem since the top has slack in it at this position. Left in the half way down position, the system will relax after 5-10 minutes and the rear window portion of the top will want to fold down under its own weight which then obstructs your access. So what I did (and I learned this from some other forum member's post...Froggie maybe?) is to use a rod (or a coat hanger as I did) to hold the top in position while working on it. Be sure to put towels or a rag over the top where the rod or wire is holding it so it does not tear the top. The original bottom anchor screw can be a bit difficult to get to and unscrew if you are not accustomed to it. Once you get it out, toss the screw and use a 5/8" long #6 flange head screw in its place and it will be much easier to get started and tighten than the original screw which was very short and hard to start. You can use a 1/4" nut driver to screw it in.

 

Elegant solution to the GM bean counters compromise. Going to have to do this one.

Gary

 

It’s been awhile since you did the (creative) bungee cord replacement of the convertible top straps. I have some rubbing when power top opens and closes. I can get OEM replacement straps for $87, but for what they are, not worth it and not sure they will hold up for long. Is the bungee setup still working well? I may opt for this setup.

 

Yes, I'm curious too.

 

Yes it is still working just fine. Everything works great when I raise and lower the top

 

Sorry I hate to be that guy but I have a couple of questions:
You mention going to a local industrial supply hardware store for the 5/16 bungee, what was the store?
You just reused the head of the rivet, were you able to just cut the old strap away from the rivet without actually drilling or removing the rivet?
If you were to do this repair again would you change how you did anything? (I don't have hog ring pliers but I think they are cheap?)
Thank you, I have to get this fixed over the winter it's driving me crazy!

 

I went to an industrial HW store that I frequent here in Anaheim, CA. It's called McFadden Dale. I'm going over there today to get some things and i'll check on the cord and see if I can get a brand name. I have a 65 Mustang (very modified) that I haven't driven for a while so i'm going to take it for a little ride.

I cut the old strap away from the rivet head (or they just fell off because they were in very bad condition). Just be sure to pay attention to the overall length and use 3 strands of bungee between the hog rings (just like I mentioned in the previous post). If the strap is too long, it won't work. 3 strands gives it the strength to pull the top away from the tonneau cover.

I made the straps 3-1/4" long, but I might make them 3" long if I were to make them again.

 

The bungee was from the Proctor Glove Co. McFadden Dale does have a web presence so you might be able to buy the bungee online from them or you can buy it from many other places.

It looks like the bungee was actually 5/32" and not 5/16".

 

Appreciate the updates. The factory straps on mine have completely lost their elasticity. I ended up pulling them roughly 2 inches and reattached and the rub seems better, but is still there - there is just no elasticity to pull the window back. I will give this a try. If I am reading the entire thread correctly, you mention using 5/32 inch bungee, 3 strands fastened at each end with hog rings and total length 3 inches. And fastened at bottom with longer 5/8 #6 screw. I think you also said to fasten screw first and then stretch over rivet. Seems easy enough. Just want to be sure this game plan is right. Thanks!

 

Yes that is how I did it.

 

I thought I was the only one having to hold the window out of the way when putting top up.

 

Is this an issue only with manual convertible tops?

 

I have the power top and have this problem. Going to try this bungee solution soon.

 

I must have this problem too & never knew it....I just hold the back of the top high enough to clear the hatch door & I'm good with that