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I’m wondering if anyone has a suggestion on how to get the fuel pump pushrod back up against the camshaft without removing the spacer plate that is between the fuel pump and the block? I understand the pushrod is free-floating until it is against the camshaft and the pump is installed. When I removed the pump, I exchanged the bolt on the front of the engine with the front fuel pump mounting bolt to hold the pushrod in place during the installation. During the installation, the rod slipped down. For some reason, it is stuck down against the spacer plate.
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Stick a finger or hook and easily lift up on the bottom of the rod a push it back up and secure with the bolt. If not, remove and clean the plate, check the rod for any damage, rub a little grease on it, and slide it back up, and secure with the bolt. Do not over-tighten.
You will get more room if the engine is a TDC. You could also clean the exposed part of the rod with alcohol and put on a rubber glove. Make sure the long bolt is not touching the rod. Good luck. Jerry
I recently changed a fuel pump on a GM SP 383 crate engine. The 3/8" taped hole that is used for 55, 56 & 57 Chevrolet front engine mounting and is located in front of the fuel pump's push rod is blind. The taped hole does not extend into the push rod's chamber so using this hole with a longer 3/8" threaded bolt was not an option. I was able to use a magnet to slide the push rod up against the cam, I then use a hacksaw blade to hold the push rod up while I inserted the fuel pump into place. Setting the engine up on #1 top dead center insures the eccentric cam lob is on it's base circle and allows the push rod to ride as high as possible. Not as nice as a drilled hole with the long bolt but it did the job... Al
If you're not concerned with originality, I found that replacing the two bolts with studs makes the process infinitely easier. Coincidentally, if you source studs designed for use with the headers/manifolds on a SBC, they're exactly the right size for the fuel pump.
There is a typical "miscommunication" in how this is done. People say lift the rod and you think about it like flipping on a light switch where the front moves up but the back stays in the same spot.
This is not how it is done and only results in frustration (BTDT).
The rod is pushed back up into its tunnel, not flipped up like a switch. And this is very easy to do if you get the #1 near TDC because the rod pushes in furthest and you are not fighting the spring on the fuel pump when you tighten the bolts.
[QUOTE=FLYNAVY30;1604458475]If you're not concerned with originality, I found that replacing the two bolts with studs makes the process infinitely easier. Coincidentally, if you source studs designed for use with the headers/manifolds on a SBC, they're exactly the right size for the fuel pump.
QUOTE]
Using longer studs make alignment with the push rod and gasket placement easier. If you want the original look, it's simple to replace the studs (one at a time) with bolts after the pump is snug against the engine.
Fuel Pump Installation
