Mods, if you feel this belongs in the "Emergency Trunk Key" thread please move it there 😁.

Today I pulled the "child trunk release" cable for the first time and realized how easy it was. I read the other thread with great interest as I have a '23 HTC. Many posts/solutions involved getting new retrofit locks/keys, various installation methods etc. I "plagiarized" this idea from a member that posted something similar.

I found these at wally mart.



I used an 18" one to loop through the child release then attached a 9" to avoid any hang-up on the cargo net T-hooks


As you can see in the above photo I did drill a small hole through the trunk liner and through the part of the plastic tub behind it. HOWEVER..... I did remove that smaller section of liner first to make darn sure there were no wiring conduits back there. I then fed the leader through the liner then plastic and reattached the liner.


I routed the leader under the main gas strut to act as a "pulley point" to ensure if the cable is needed it will be pulling pretty straight on the child release. Making sure I had enough leader to finish I added another and looped a small zip tie/cable tie to the end.



I then laid the leader to the left of the yellow panel to the front edge of the trunk. I secured it with Scotch tape making sure I coiled the remaining length of leader.

I fashioned a small hooked wire to be able to fish out the leader. The zip tie "lock" fits nicely between the gap of the trunk/quarter panel/deck lid so it's easy to get it out.


It's a simple process to fish out the leader, pull the looped zip tie through and position the leader toward the right rear side in line where the hole was drilled. I tried it three times and it was very easy to pop the trunk. When the trunks open I'll periodically check the tape securing the leader position, perhaps I'll have to use something else.

Had I been more industrious I could have drilled holes through the cargo net T-handles for the leader to go through so that may be a project for another day. The entire job took about 30 minutes once I figured out what lengths of leader to use where so as not to bind anywhere. Will this work if the latch assembly physically seizes up? I don't know, but I'm thinking (for me) this sure beats monkeying with replacement lock cylinders and keys.

 

Here’s another option. I drilled a tiny hole through the ‘tub’ by going through the right rear louvre (upper left corner). I routed my pull cable through the hole and secured it to the bottom side of a fin with a small piece of tape. Sealed the hole with a tiny amount of body putty. This approach provides a straight pull. It’s totally out of sight and readily accessible if ever needed. My biggest challenge will be remembering that I did this if the latch would fail in 10yrs. I’m 69
now. Ugh.

 

Amazing that GM engineers could figure out something so simple.

 

Similar to the c3 aftermarket emergency release cables that hung down from latches on hood.

 

Functional work around

 

I guess were doing this for a dead battery situation? When mine went dead I got used the key and released the frunk from under the dash. Did something change on the 23s? I know they eliminated the opening behind the license plate. Whats the advantage of this set up?

 

It’s if the electric latch ever fails. No other way to gain access.

 

The 2023 doesn't have the backup pull?

 

The 2023 doesn't have a keyhole in the trunk as the other model years have. No way to open the trunk with a key as GM wanted to save money and in their good wisdom, eliminated the rear keyhole.

 

Why would you need a trunk key. You open the door with the key and pull the emergency release that's under the dash at the firewall

 

That's only for the frunk. Cannot do that for the trunk.

 

Gotcha. I was thinking this was for frunk as that's where the battery is. Thanks for the clarification

 

Looks like those methods would work just fine.

 

I just tried it with a cable from the latch thru the hole behind the license plate. Yes, it pulls the emergency latch out completely, but no, it does not open the trunk. But, there is an electric motor in the equation and I’m thinking while the latch does indeed disconnect the system, significant upward pressure (from inside the trunk) is required to push the trunk up. Pulling my internal latch doesn’t “pop” the trunk up even a little to be able to lift it.

 

Keep one of these in the glove box.

 

I believe their official position was... "We eliminated the rear trunk key mechanism to save weight."

 

I guess the transmission neutral tool installations work for engine not running but good battery. If battery is dead just jump-start the car or at least temporarily power the car to open the trunk allowing access to the transmission. If the electric latch fails sounds like you might just have to use skates to get vehicle on flatbed if you didn’t previously install something like the fishing line leader above. Doesn’t seem very likely but it’s possible.

 

I spoke with Tony Roma at Carlisle this year about why the mechanical lock on '23 and up was removed. He told me it was deleted after constant complaints from the production line that something to do with the the lock cylinder system made installing the rear fascia or tub a PITA and the decision was made to get rid of it. He said it was basically a manufacturing issue. He acknowledged they need to come up with something better than the current procedure of removing a rear wheel and fishing behind the wheel liner to pop the trunk open.

 

Please tell Tony that we're still waiting...

 

This is used for the case where the trunk solenoid fails. The battery could be fine and all the electrics are OK but the solenoid doesn't work. My C6Z trunk solenoid failed, but I could use the key to open the trunk until I got the local Chevy dealer to replace the solenoid for $800.