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Rcdlr clicks multiple times- not the issue
Battery on a tender during process
Keys have new battery
I was trying to add a key to my set and i went and did the long 30 minute process.
I got the point where i had to register the fobs and when i close out the process, the fobs still haven’t been overwritten and aren’t programmed.
Im tried this over 8 times and i’m giving up and just might have to see what options the dealer gives me. What might be going wrong here ?
Both keys are no longer registered with the car and car won’t start without the fobs even in the glove box compartment
Also, battery upside down, dead, missing, inside out, shouldn’t matter to the programming process. Also same to starting your car if it is programmed and in the glovebox slot.
I’ve also read that the final step in programming a fob is to press the lock and unlock buttons to complete the process. Did you do that? And as an observation if when you compete the first fob it requests the next that should mean the first is programmed.
One more thing to try before you start the programming procedure. Reboot the car's electronics by disconnecting both battery cables and then touch only the cable clamp ends together for a minute. This will bleed off any residual power in the modules so you'll get a clean reboot when you reconnect the cables.
Now that I slept on it, two more points.
1) DO NOT HAVE THE CHARGER/MAINTAINER CONNECTED WHEN YOU TOUCH THE BATTERY TERMINALS TOGETHER if you are going to reboot the electronics.
2) If you were successful in marrying the fobs to the car in your latest attempt, if you try the short procedure, when you insert the fob into the slot, you should get a message on the DIC that it's a known fob. If that's the case, something else is going wrong that is preventing them from communicating with the car. After rebooting the electronics, try the above. It's the same as the slot test described in the procedure I posted above. Let us know what happens.
Also, battery upside down, dead, missing, inside out, shouldn’t matter to the programming process. Also same to starting your car if it is programmed and in the glovebox slot.
I’ve also read that the final step in programming a fob is to press the lock and unlock buttons to complete the process. Did you do that? And as an observation if when you compete the first fob it requests the next that should mean the first is programmed.
When i first had an issue the other day with connectivity I had used the known fob in the glovebox to start the car. I had another key laying around so i decided to go and add that key to the known fobs. Now that i’ve done that they won’t learn to the car.
I would also assume when it tells me to add fob 2 that it had learned fob 1. However that is not the case here. After closing out the process by pressing the bottom half of the start button, putting either fob in the holder doesn’t work.
Also, battery upside down, dead, missing, inside out, shouldn’t matter to the programming process. Also same to starting your car if it is programmed and in the glovebox slot.
I’ve also read that the final step in programming a fob is to press the lock and unlock buttons to complete the process. Did you do that? And as an observation if when you compete the first fob it requests the next that should mean the first is programmed.
Originally Posted by FatsWaller
Now that I slept on it, two more points.
1) DO NOT HAVE THE CHARGER/MAINTAINER CONNECTED WHEN YOU TOUCH THE BATTERY TERMINALS TOGETHER if you are going to reboot the electronics.
2) If you were successful in marrying the fobs to the car in your latest attempt, if you try the short procedure, when you insert the fob into the slot, you should get a message on the DIC that it's a known fob. If that's the case, something else is going wrong that is preventing them from communicating with the car. After rebooting the electronics, try the above. It's the same as the slot test described in the procedure I posted above. Let us know what happens.
Im going to go ahead and try this method of rebooting because nothing else seems to work and it’s probably just the electrical system bugging out. I’ll see tomorrow
when you program the keys and at the very end of the programming do you press the lock/unlock button?
rebooting it wont make any difference.
Im sure I had to press the lock and unlock button at the very end of the process on mine as I had the same issue nothing was being programmed
After trying to do it 8 times i tried pressing the lock or unlock / unlock only / lock only and each time it didn’t work but it doesn’t hurt to give it another go
After trying to do it 8 times i tried pressing the lock or unlock / unlock only / lock only and each time it didn’t work but it doesn’t hurt to give it another go
ClothSeats mentioned above to check that the batteries are inserted the right way up. I strongly agree with this, because you wouldn't by far be the first to insert them upside down. While this most likely wouldn't prevent them from being recognized in the glovebox slot it sure wouldn't allow the final step of pressing the unlock button from working, because the fob won't be able to transmit anything. I found where the final step is mentioned in another document, which I have attached. You might want to give that a read, because it has a few other tips.
The only thing I haven't seen mentioned, and I doubt it's the problem since from your response it seems the system sees the fobs in the glovebox slot, is to make sure the fobs are being inserted into the glovebox slot in the correct orientation.
The only thing I haven't seen mentioned, and I doubt it's the problem since from your response it seems the system sees the fobs in the glovebox slot, is to make sure the fobs are being inserted into the glovebox slot in the correct orientation.
Just tried facing the buttons towards me, same thing.
ClothSeats mentioned above to check that the batteries are inserted the right way up. I strongly agree with this, because you wouldn't by far be the first to insert them upside down. While this most likely wouldn't prevent them from being recognized in the glovebox slot it sure wouldn't allow the final step of pressing the unlock button from working, because the fob won't be able to transmit anything. I found where the final step is mentioned in another document, which I have attached. You might want to give that a read, because it has a few other tips.
I unfortunately do have the batteries + side touching the + on the fob. The battery was facing this side when the key “was” working. So thanks but it doesn’t work :/
Just tried facing the buttons towards me, same thing.
I just want to clarify this. So you tried the procedure with the key ring end out with the buttons facing the passenger side and lastly with the buttons facing the driver side and in those cases the procedure appeared to work such that it asked for the next fob to program?
As far as the locksmith is concerned not sure what they can do unless they have a Tech II and the required software. Hope you can take notes and report back the details.
ClothSeats mentioned above to check that the batteries are inserted the right way up. I strongly agree with this, because you wouldn't by far be the first to insert them upside down. While this most likely wouldn't prevent them from being recognized in the glovebox slot it sure wouldn't allow the final step of pressing the unlock button from working, because the fob won't be able to transmit anything. I found where the final step is mentioned in another document, which I have attached. You might want to give that a read, because it has a few other tips.
You saved my day, every other guide I saw for programming a fob without an active fob, not a single one of them said to hit lock/unlock to finalize the programming. I did it about 6 times before I found the PDF you posted. Thanks