[C2] Throw Out Bearing
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Clutch throw out bearing help!
Hello
does the oblong/pointed end of the throw out bearing face out of the clutch fork? Sorry first time doing a clutch
Any other advice greatly appreciated.
Lube the tip of the input shaft going into the pilot bearing? Using an OEM bronze style not a roller.
thanks for any help and any tips
Oblong end of Bearing facing out of clutch fork?
does the oblong/pointed end of the throw out bearing face out of the clutch fork? Sorry first time doing a clutch
Any other advice greatly appreciated.
Lube the tip of the input shaft going into the pilot bearing? Using an OEM bronze style not a roller.
thanks for any help and any tips
Oblong end of Bearing facing out of clutch fork?
Last edited by Ryder5616; 04-26-2024 at 07:13 PM.
#2
Instructor
Thread Starter
Any expertise much appreciated!
thanks again just want to check that the pointed end of the throw out bearing faces away from the clutch fork, thank you
thanks again just want to check that the pointed end of the throw out bearing faces away from the clutch fork, thank you
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
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You have the bearing right. No oil on the bushing if it is an Oilite bushing as they have oil impregnated in them. A very light coat of grease on the input shaft housing of the transmission is optional, but something I do. Do you have the GM Service Overhaul Manual or GM Service Chassis Manual. I think both have clutch install and adjustment info in them.
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Ryder5616 (04-26-2024)
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you very much. Yes I have both but was confused on the pointed/oblong side of the throw out bearing where it slides onto the clutch fork. Wasn’t expecting that.
thank you very much for your response, most appreciated!
thank you very much for your response, most appreciated!
#6
Safety Car
I recall years ago we had discussion on here and the NCRS tech site, that those replacement bearings had that protruding "feature", and questioned what its purpose was.
We concluded that it's merely a "stop", such that after the very first revolution after startup, that the bearing will find itself located and stopped by one of two fork fingers.
Since both fingers can stop rotation, it was concluded that.....
It makes no difference where initial bearing capture location is made with respect to the fork. i.e. ...."either way".
Of course the most important assembly placement is that the flat spring tips are under the bearing lip, as you've shown in your photos.
Rich
We concluded that it's merely a "stop", such that after the very first revolution after startup, that the bearing will find itself located and stopped by one of two fork fingers.
Since both fingers can stop rotation, it was concluded that.....
It makes no difference where initial bearing capture location is made with respect to the fork. i.e. ...."either way".
Of course the most important assembly placement is that the flat spring tips are under the bearing lip, as you've shown in your photos.
Rich
#7
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I wounder if anyone has measured the diameter of the bearing at the bulge (capture) and calculated the installed clearance between that point of the bearing and the saddle of the fork? I would be concerned about the possibility of the bearing being pushed off center if the bulge (capture) is put to the inside of the saddle. If there is no clearance issue, then either way would be fine.
But, then again, I have never used a bearing of that type and have no idea of the manufacturer's recommendation.
But, then again, I have never used a bearing of that type and have no idea of the manufacturer's recommendation.
#8
Drifting
Most Throw out bearings have a recess in them to pack with grease to prevent wear as it glides along the input bearing retainer sleeve. In your picture, yours does not have such a recess visible. A thin coat of your favorite NGLI #2 on the sleeve wont hurt.
Last edited by Sixguns; 04-27-2024 at 09:28 AM.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for everyone’s reply. I really wanted to do my due diligence on this clutch install since I’ve never done one before.
i have the advantage of having my motor and trans out of my car. It took about 30 min of shaking/wobbling to get my trans mated up to the bell housing. It was the last 1/2” that gave me trouble. Sliding into the pilot bushing I guess. I used the alignment tool and checked the input shaft OD to pilot bearing ID and all was good, just really tight.
i can’t imagine mating the trans up to to the engine with the engine in the car, what a nightmare.- atleast it would be for me.
thanks to all
i have the advantage of having my motor and trans out of my car. It took about 30 min of shaking/wobbling to get my trans mated up to the bell housing. It was the last 1/2” that gave me trouble. Sliding into the pilot bushing I guess. I used the alignment tool and checked the input shaft OD to pilot bearing ID and all was good, just really tight.
i can’t imagine mating the trans up to to the engine with the engine in the car, what a nightmare.- atleast it would be for me.
thanks to all
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Ryder5616 (04-27-2024)
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dcamick (04-28-2024)
#12
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
You have the bearing right. No oil on the bushing if it is an Oilite bushing as they have oil impregnated in them. A very light coat of grease on the input shaft housing of the transmission is optional, but something I do. Do you have the GM Service Overhaul Manual or GM Service Chassis Manual. I think both have clutch install and adjustment info in them.
Tom