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[EDIT - issue resolved, bought per Post #11] I'm going to order some sort of bleeder, got a couple of vehicles that need brake maintenance and replacement. Looking at Mityvac, MV8500 looks like it might be about right for my needs but willing to consider other options.
Last edited by Railroadman; Jul 3, 2025 at 09:13 AM.
I tried using a MityVac for vacuum bleeding but couldn't make it work. Once the bleeders were open, any pull by the MityVac would cause air to leak past the screw threads and into the fluid I was pulling out. That made it impossible for me to know when bleeding was actually successful.
Others may have been able to make a MityVac work, but I couldn't.
I’m sold on speed bleeders. I have them on all 4 of my older vehicles and I’m convinced they are the way to go. I have a Motive Bleeder, a vacuum bleeder, and a reverse pressure bleeder (pressurize from the bleeder screw). They are all sitting on a shelf since I converted my last car over to speed bleeders. Never going back.
I’m sold on speed bleeders. I have them on all 4 of my older vehicles and I’m convinced they are the way to go. I have a Motive Bleeder, a vacuum bleeder, and a reverse pressure bleeder (pressurize from the bleeder screw). They are all sitting on a shelf since I converted my last car over to speed bleeders. Never going back.
How long have you had those? Are there any issues with them developing problems over time? My non-Vette vehicles are driven year round in salt, mud, etc.
I tried using a MityVac for vacuum bleeding but couldn't make it work. Once the bleeders were open, any pull by the MityVac would cause air to leak past the screw threads and into the fluid I was pulling out. That made it impossible for me to know when bleeding was actually successful.
Others may have been able to make a MityVac work, but I couldn't.
I have a 50 year old bleeder (my son). All I do is pump up the brakes and he cracks the bleeder open and removes the air. I tried the MidtyVac, got air through the threads.
Once the bleeders were open, any pull by the MityVac would cause air to leak past the screw threads and into the fluid I was pulling out.
Originally Posted by polo91
I tried the MidtyVac, got air through the threads.
Well that's two votes against.
I have a 50 year old bleeder (my son). All I do is pump up the brakes and he cracks the bleeder open and removes the air.
Yup, I have a wife 6 months older than me and she's done the drill more times than we can count. The C-4 needs a complete flush and bleed, the '64 will eventually need to be filled and bled, and I have two older "blue oval" vehicles which need attention as well. Adding all that up and I'd like to get something that will let me do the job myself. But obviously, it has to actually work.
Last edited by Railroadman; Jun 26, 2025 at 09:44 AM.
I use the Motive Power Bleeder but I don’t put any brake fluid in it (too much potential for a mess if it leaks). There is usually enough residual fluid in the master to do each wheel. Then open the master top it off and go onto the next wheel. I flush the daily’s every other year. Works fine and no cleaning up of the power bleeder for storage for next use.
I use the Motive Power Bleeder but I don’t put any brake fluid in it (too much potential for a mess if it leaks). There is usually enough residual fluid in the master to do each wheel. Then open the master top it off and go onto the next wheel. I flush the daily’s every other year. Works fine and no cleaning up of the power bleeder for storage for next use.
I tried using a MityVac for vacuum bleeding but couldn't make it work. Once the bleeders were open, any pull by the MityVac would cause air to leak past the screw threads and into the fluid I was pulling out. That made it impossible for me to know when bleeding was actually successful.
Others may have been able to make a MityVac work, but I couldn't.
I've had pretty much the same experience using a Mityvac. I finally built a pressure bleeder which works very well.
Don,
I have used and recommended this inexpensive brake bleeder for years. It is absolutely idiot proof but best of all it works. Once your car is in the air, a complete brake bleed/flush takes about 30 minutes. There is a magnet on the bottle that lets you attached it to each rotor as you go around the car. There is a check valve in the lid that only allows fluid to flow into the bottle but no air to flow out. Start at the interior right rear bleeder. Attach the hose to the bleeder (and, crack the bleeder open), hang the bottle on the rotor. Open the master cylinder, being very careful not to spill any brake fluid on your paint. Fill master cylinder to within a 1/4" of the top and place the cap back on the master cylinder. Now, open the driver's door, kneel down next to the driver's compartment and reach in and slowly pump the brake pedal (with your hand) 10-12 times. This will purge the line of all old brake fluid. Now, back to the right rear, snug the bleeder closed. Move the hose to the outer bleeder and repeat entire process being sure to top off the master cylinder after bleeding each bleeder. Easy Peasy.
If you have any sort of air compressor that will generate ~10lbs of pressure, you can pretty easily make your own pressure bleeder. All you need is a cap for the master that has an air fitting, a valve to turn the pressure on and off, and 1 or 2 C or F clamps. The cap I use is homemade 1/2"-3/4" Lexan/polycarbonate scrap from a plastics company in my area that I applied a neoprene "seal" to the contact surface. You could also buy the Motive cap if your desire to fabricate is not there.
I use the Pheonix reverse bleeder. It is a one person operation. It pushes fluid from the wheel cylinder or caliper back to the master cylinder. It is great for flushing and bleeding the master. One caveat, don't use speed bleeders with the reverse system. The speed bleeders are essentially check valves. The reverse bleeder will push fluid and the spring will stop the flow of fluid. Jerry
I use the Motive Power Bleeder but I don’t put any brake fluid in it (too much potential for a mess if it leaks). There is usually enough residual fluid in the master to do each wheel. Then open the master top it off and go onto the next wheel. I flush the daily’s every other year. Works fine and no cleaning up of the power bleeder for storage for next use.
One thing I forgot to mention, I do use a Mitty Vac to purge most of the old fluid from the master before I start then top it off then attach the bleeder and go. Watch for the fluid color change and then you know you have fresh fluid at the wheel.
+1 for the Motive - went to it based on input here when I had an issue on one of the rears. Never was successful with MV., and not patient enough for gravity method
I DO like the homemade setup above!
I tried using a MityVac for vacuum bleeding but couldn't make it work. Once the bleeders were open, any pull by the MityVac would cause air to leak past the screw threads and into the fluid I was pulling out. That made it impossible for me to know when bleeding was actually successful.
Others may have been able to make a MityVac work, but I couldn't.
This is my experience with the MityVac as well.
It can also be really difficult to get the fluid flowing initially when the system is empty or close to it when just having a helper pump the pedal, like after changing the lines or all four calipers & hoses - the Motive will get the fluid flowing immediately. I have also found that for a quick little bleed job, I can attach the Motive to the master cylinder without filling it with fluid and just use the pressure (of course you have to be sure not to let the level get too low in the master) or for bigger jobs I can fill the Motive with fluid and it will refill the master as the fluid is bled out, eliminating the worry of reintroducing air... this makes the Motive great for flushing the system as well.
I tried using a MityVac for vacuum bleeding but couldn't make it work. Once the bleeders were open, any pull by the MityVac would cause air to leak past the screw threads and into the fluid I was pulling out. That made it impossible for me to know when bleeding was actually successful.
Others may have been able to make a MityVac work, but I couldn't.
I smeared grease on the threads first. Worked OK. May have been more effort than just a tube from the bleeder into a jar routine. But I use the mityvac for more than brakes so no big deal.
Brake bleeder suggestions - Mityvac?
