Does this mean my shifter cable is going out? 83,000 miles.

Note: it appears to shift through all the settings smoothly, it is just really difficult to press the button down when in Park after starting the engine. I have noticed it taking a little more pressure from time to time over the past two months, but today I had to push the gear shift lever forward in Park to get the button to depress.

Is there some other adjustment for the "button"?

 

Shifter cable is probably fine, I just replaced the bushing underneath the shifter about a month ago. I noticed problems too, it was holding on by a thread, it popped out immediately when I removed the shifter, don’t brake the shifter cable pulling out the shifter. If the bushing is still good, then it’s still attached. There’s only a few screws to remove the trim, and 4 bolts holding the shifter down. You have to unplug some connectors too. Bushings are like 10.00 on Amazon.

 

My bushing may be going out, but not sure why that would affect depressing the shifter button? Would that not indicate another problem with the button or lockout mechanism itself? The actual cable connection does not move down and up when the button is depressed does it?

 

did you find out what caused this? This is exactly what mine is doing also.

 

The button has not much to do with the cable, it’s just a lockout in the base mechanism. All it does is prevent the shifter from moving. The shifter has a steel tube with a rod inside it. The tube does the shift and the inner rod moves down when you press the button, unlocking the mechanism in the base. The shift lock rod doesn’t touch the shift cable in any manner.

Our shifters are now antique. Either your lockout is worn out or it’s crusty and old and needs some lube. First thing would try is removing the shift **** and get a can of spray lithium grease and shoot it down the shifter between the lockout rod and the tube. If that doesn’t help, remove the console and identify the lockout mechanism and lube it.


Here’s a pic of where the cable attaches you can see the tube is flattened the inner lock rod stops above here, inside the mechanism by the shifter pivot. Below that you can see the outer tube and the lockout rod inside the tube


Unwanted advice: then I would order a nice **** and C5 adapter from twistedshiterz and toss the homely OEM **** for a nice ball ****. They have many to choose from. C5 specific search on their site gives you all the options and the lively adapter is included in the price. Easy to install. Then you just push down the entire **** itself to unlock. What a great upgrade and very affordable. Love mine. Check them out.

 

That’s good to hear! I will give these suggestions a try. Thanks

 

Hahaha, silly forum edited out the word K.N.O.B. in my post and relpaced it with **** We are living in clown world.

EDIT: I was logged out so that's why that happened.

 

Going to be having this modification done this Summer for the dreaded A4 weak link:
======================================== ========================================
C5 CORVETTE AUTOMATIC SHIFTER CABLE "COTTER PIN & WASHER" MODIFICATION
======================================== ========================================

This guide outlines the permanent "bulletproof" mechanical modification to
prevent the factory automatic shifter cable from ever falling off the linkage
pin again, even if the internal plastic bushing completely disintegrates.

REQUIRED PARTS & TOOLS:
* Cordless drill or right-angle drill (for tight spaces under the car)
* 1/16" or 3/32" high-quality cobalt or titanium drill bit
* Center punch and hammer
* Stainless steel cotter pin or R-clip (sized to match your drill bit)
* Stainless steel flat washer (with an inner diameter that fits the pin snug)
* Small can of cutting fluid or 3-in-1 oil (to cool the drill bit)
* Pliers (to bend the cotter pin legs)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 1: PREPARING AND CENTERING THE BALL-PIN
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Disconnect the shifter cable eyelet from the factory metal transmission or
shifter assembly ball-pin linkage arm.
2. Clean all grease and road grime off the metal pin using a rag.
3. Take a center punch and tap a small dimple horizontally right into the very
tip/nose of the metal ball-pin, past where the cable sits. This dimple is
critical to keep your drill bit from walking off the rounded surface.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 2: DRILLING THE HOLE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Apply a drop of cutting fluid or oil to the tip of your 1/16" or 3/32" drill
bit to prevent it from overheating.
2. Hold the drill perfectly level and straight. Using steady, moderate pressure
at a low speed, slowly drill a hole horizontally completely through the nose
of the factory metal ball-pin.
3. Take your time, let the bit do the work, and reapply oil if necessary. Once
through, clean away any metal shavings or burrs with a file or sandpaper.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 3: FINAL MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Slide the factory plastic shifter cable eyelet (with whatever bushing material
remains, or a fresh replacement) completely back onto the drilled ball-pin.
2. Slide your stainless steel flat washer over the nose of the pin. The washer
acts as a physical wall, keeping the wider plastic cable loop trapped.
3. Push your stainless steel cotter pin or R-clip straight down through the
newly drilled horizontal hole.
4. Using a pair of pliers, bend the legs of the cotter pin backward around the
pin to lock it permanently into place.

Even if the internal bushing completely dissolves down the road, the mechanical
washer and cotter pin physically trap the cable on the arm, guaranteeing you
will never be stranded in gear again.


Hopefully that helps someone avoid what I encountered a thousand miles from home.