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My car's larger inner splash shields are secured to the frame by 4 hex head screws and one of those threads (in the frame) are too loose to adequately tighten this screw. How does one properly fix this? Is there a nut sert with sheet metal threads? What are my options? Please tell me what you / others have done?
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Note: I'm not interested in wrapping a copper wire around the threads of the screw because I'm hoping for a more proper fix.
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The car is a 67 coupe.
if thats the screw your having issues with the threads are just about gone the closer you get to the washer , did you try another screw in the hole your having issues with
Bob
If you don’t do Jay’s solution, install the plate except the bad one and see if there isn’t room in the slot in the plate to drill another hole next to the bad one, but still within the slot. The washer will cover the hole left.
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Do they really make rive nuts with these threads?
Originally Posted by CADbrian
My car's larger inner splash shields are secured to the frame by 4 hex head screws and one of those threads (in the frame) are too loose to adequately tighten this screw. How does one properly fix this? Is there a nut sert with sheet metal threads? What are my options? Please tell me what you / others have done?
.
Note: I'm not interested in wrapping a copper wire around the threads of the screw because I'm hoping for a more proper fix.
.
The car is a 67 coupe.
I would first try another screw, and if that didn't solve it, then welding would be in order. The threads on the screw in the image are clearly deteriorated by the washer area.
By the way, that's a beautiful chassis.
I would first try a good sized blob of JB weld. Get as much in the hole as possible. If there are larger holes in the frame opposite the stripped one, that give you access to the stripped hole, maybe you can get a blob on the backside as well. Once dry, sand flush and redrill. Properly mixed, JB Weld is very hard when it is cured.
Any welding, while it is the ultimate fix, would bubble your frame paint and require some blending to get it looking even again.
I would first try a good sized blob of JB weld. Get as much in the hole as possible. If there are larger holes in the frame opposite the stripped one, that give you access to the stripped hole, maybe you can get a blob on the backside as well. Once dry, sand flush and redrill. Properly mixed, JB Weld is very hard when it is cured.
Any welding, while it is the ultimate fix, would bubble your frame paint and require some blending to get it looking even again.
This is the easiest, safest and most logical solution. Once that bolt is in place you're not going to be removing it and reinstalling it over and over again. I'd, at least, try this fix first
.Note: I'm not interested in wrapping a copper wire around the threads of the screw because I'm hoping for a more proper fix.
If that would work why wouldn't you do it? It's a non-invasive, easily reversible solution that nobody will ever see. I get the OCD impulse to do it "correctly" but a lot of times a better, more practical philosophy is "If you see a can of worms, don't open it"
Brian,
why not thee obvious and go one diameter larger on the bolt. There is a ton of correct looking hardware on the market today. Try Fastenal for hard to find hardware . If Need be change all on the pan if it bothers you. These cars are 60 years old and have been through some rough patches in the past.
I have a stripped hole for my ballast resistor. I took the advice from this forum and used the original course thread bolt only I used a plastic wall anchor pressed into the firewall first. Fixed no fiberglass patches etc…
Marshal
Rivnut is the best repair that you will never have to return to: And you will need to change you hex bolt to match the appropriate rivnut size that you end up using.
Brian weld the thread hole shut and then retap it to the correct size. That is the proper and permanent repair.
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I got to thinking about this last night... If I weld the hole closed I would then need to cut new threads for the screw but here's the problem - I don't know how to determine what the threads are on this screw. It doesn't fit ANY of my thread checkers which got me thinking maybe this is considered a sheet metal screw and maybe sheet metal screws don't have standard threads??? I couldn't find a matching tap set for the threads of this screw. Even if I end up not using this exact screw (because the threads are toast near the washer) I really want to use the right kind of screw.
No. You would have to change the fastener if you went with a rivnut.
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That's what I was thinking too. Is the reason I'd have to change the fastener because rivnuts are not made with the same type of sheet metal threads these screws have?
Stripped (nearly) threads in the frame. Now what?
This is the easiest, safest and most logical solution. Once that bolt is in place you're not going to be removing it and reinstalling it over and over again. I'd, at least, try this fix first
