Car in limp mode.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 105
Likes: 51
Car in limp mode.
Last week I took the car off the battery tender to go for a ride. The hood latch would not close. Finally closed it manually. Started the car no front lift check engine light on. Turn the car off disconnected the negative cable for 30 minutes. Start the car cel cleared front lift working. I take the car out I am in limp mode. Called dealer had it towed in. They said it was low voltage the battery tested good. They cleared all the codes. I explained I just took it off trickle charger. Picked the car up yesterday drove it for a hour all good. I start the car this morning back in limp mode. I will the dealer in the morning. this is a 24 ZO6 with 1200 miles. Any ideas ? All input appreciated.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 775
Likes: 628
From: Los Angeles
Last week I took the car off the battery tender to go for a ride. The hood latch would not close. Finally closed it manually. Started the car no front lift check engine light on. Turn the car off disconnected the negative cable for 30 minutes. Start the car cel cleared front lift working. I take the car out I am in limp mode. Called dealer had it towed in. They said it was low voltage the battery tested good. They cleared all the codes. I explained I just took it off trickle charger. Picked the car up yesterday drove it for a hour all good. I start the car this morning back in limp mode. I will the dealer in the morning. this is a 24 ZO6 with 1200 miles. Any ideas ? All input appreciated.
As for the limp mode — no clue, man, that sucks. Car’s barely a year old with like 1,200 miles? 😬 I make it a point to drive mine every 2 weeks, even off-season if I’m not tracking. You kinda have to with a beast like this. Letting it sit too long is never good — fluids gotta move, pistons need to stretch their legs, and that 670hp needs to breathe!
At about the 2-week mark I’ll find any excuse to take it out — McDonald’s run, grocery trip, whatever. Take the long route, hit a freeway on-ramp, run through all the gears, then get off the next exit like, “Alright, we’re good.” 😂
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 1,101
From: Chattanooga tn
Last week I took the car off the battery tender to go for a ride. The hood latch would not close. Finally closed it manually. Started the car no front lift check engine light on. Turn the car off disconnected the negative cable for 30 minutes. Start the car cel cleared front lift working. I take the car out I am in limp mode. Called dealer had it towed in. They said it was low voltage the battery tested good. They cleared all the codes. I explained I just took it off trickle charger. Picked the car up yesterday drove it for a hour all good. I start the car this morning back in limp mode. I will the dealer in the morning. this is a 24 ZO6 with 1200 miles. Any ideas ? All input appreciated.
sounds like maybe an electrical drain or your battery is bad but testing good. As stated above these cars get weird w voltage drops . I’ve had 2 year old batteries fail before.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 98
From: Jacksonville FL
Last week I took the car off the battery tender to go for a ride. The hood latch would not close. Finally closed it manually. Started the car no front lift check engine light on. Turn the car off disconnected the negative cable for 30 minutes. Start the car cel cleared front lift working. I take the car out I am in limp mode. Called dealer had it towed in. They said it was low voltage the battery tested good. They cleared all the codes. I explained I just took it off trickle charger. Picked the car up yesterday drove it for a hour all good. I start the car this morning back in limp mode. I will the dealer in the morning. this is a 24 ZO6 with 1200 miles. Any ideas ? All input appreciated.
You are not alone. We picked our new 2026 Z up from the factory yesterday morning. Everything was great until we finally decided to leave for home. Started to get a hood open and service hood release message on the dash. Thought we were going to have to leave it at the plant and find another way back to Florida. The fix finally seemed to be doing the high drop to allow it to self latch without the gentle soft close. No software resets would work. Guess from the pros is that’s it’s a mechanical latch issue. Finally back home and will be following up with the experts from GM, but it appears that this may be more of an issue than originally thought. Good luck and let us know what your fix was eventually!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 98
From: Jacksonville FL
It wouldn’t let us drive the car with the message, but there’s an override by holding the brake pedal for a certain time. After that though, it limits your speed. We finally fixed the issue by getting the frunk to soft close with a hard slam, but only after several hours of soft and hard resets and other attempted work arounds
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,766
Likes: 1,893
From: Myrtle Beach SC/Charlotte NC
It wouldn’t let us drive the car with the message, but there’s an override by holding the brake pedal for a certain time. After that though, it limits your speed. We finally fixed the issue by getting the frunk to soft close with a hard slam, but only after several hours of soft and hard resets and other attempted work arounds
That was one of many reasons I don't want to pick up my car from MM or the museum, I want to shake out any issues locally and not in the middle of a 600 mile trip...
Racer
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 307
Likes: 183
From: Colorado
This (or a very similar issue) was covered by Stacy who did our NCM delivery. He explicitly mentioned if you leave the frunk unlatched for an extended period of time (when using a battery tender, for example), the car will forget the frunk position. Quickest way to fix is to command a release with the key fob and then go through the regular close cycle. If you physically force the frunk closed, the latch now no longer agrees with the software and you start getting all sorts of errors.
What's the actual message you are getting. AFAIK, there is no 'limp mode' message.
I would start the car and cycle the frunk 2-3 times successfully. Shut down and then start again. See if your message is gone.
What's the actual message you are getting. AFAIK, there is no 'limp mode' message.
I would start the car and cycle the frunk 2-3 times successfully. Shut down and then start again. See if your message is gone.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 98
From: Jacksonville FL
Stacy did our delivery as well. In our case, the hood was never unlatched for any period of time. The error message said hood open, when it wasn’t, followed by service front hood. This prevents the car from going into gear without doing the override and then limiting the speed once the override is engaged. We were still at NCM when it happened. We spent several hours there after delivery, and had the delivery people, the plant people, and everyone else you could imagine weighing in on the situation, all to no avail. Soft reset, hard reset, physically manipulating the locking mechanism all were unsuccessful. They wanted to keep the car until Monday and bring it back to the plant to replace the latch. Thankfully, with some persistence and luck, the drop close worked.
This (or a very similar issue) was covered by Stacy who did our NCM delivery. He explicitly mentioned if you leave the frunk unlatched for an extended period of time (when using a battery tender, for example), the car will forget the frunk position. Quickest way to fix is to command a release with the key fob and then go through the regular close cycle. If you physically force the frunk closed, the latch now no longer agrees with the software and you start getting all sorts of errors.
What's the actual message you are getting. AFAIK, there is no 'limp mode' message.
I would start the car and cycle the frunk 2-3 times successfully. Shut down and then start again. See if your message is gone.
What's the actual message you are getting. AFAIK, there is no 'limp mode' message.
I would start the car and cycle the frunk 2-3 times successfully. Shut down and then start again. See if your message is gone.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,815
Likes: 5,887
It's because the car thinks the hood isn't latched and doesn't want it to fly open on the highway.
The soft close frunk was probably the most pointless addition to the car. Not needed and just another source of potential headaches.
The soft close frunk was probably the most pointless addition to the car. Not needed and just another source of potential headaches.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 807
Likes: 478
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 1,279
This (or a very similar issue) was covered by Stacy who did our NCM delivery. He explicitly mentioned if you leave the frunk unlatched for an extended period of time (when using a battery tender, for example), the car will forget the frunk position. Quickest way to fix is to command a release with the key fob and then go through the regular close cycle. If you physically force the frunk closed, the latch now no longer agrees with the software and you start getting all sorts of errors.
What's the actual message you are getting. AFAIK, there is no 'limp mode' message.
I would start the car and cycle the frunk 2-3 times successfully. Shut down and then start again. See if your message is gone.
What's the actual message you are getting. AFAIK, there is no 'limp mode' message.
I would start the car and cycle the frunk 2-3 times successfully. Shut down and then start again. See if your message is gone.
With the 25 Z06 I had an issue with the tender plug into the 12 volt sockets as it wasn’t making a good connection. The tender lights weren’t right which tipped me off something was amiss…
These cars as so complex any issues with battery/voltage is going to raise hell….
Also make sure your tender is showing a full charge after 24 hours. If a battery gets too low the tender may not have enough juice to recharge the battery fully. I have a large battery charger that I put on my cars if the battery goes flat and then put the tender back on after bringing the battery back to normal state of charge. Saved a lot of batteries that way.
