My 1982 will not start. It is getting gas, I can see the injectors spraying. I also put a test light on one of the plugs, and it is getting power to the plugs. Would like to know what to check next.
I think it might be the ICM in the distributor but power to the plugs makes me question that? It just keeps turning over with no combustion.
Please advise

 

...fuel, air, spark. The three things that's needed, however it's gotta be done at the right time. Timing chain jump or broken? When turning it over, can someone look inside the valve cover cap and see rockers moving?

 

It looks like everything is ok Mechanically. It was running at first then the idle slowly died and I have not been able to start it since. I'm leaning towards a bad ICM in the distributor. As you can see from the attachment is is getting plenty of fuel and I tested for spark. I have read that a bad ICM in the distributor can cause timing problems.
Plan on ordering a new ICM, rotor, cap and coil. You can get all from Rock Auto for under $100.

 

Make sure your vacuum lines are all plugged with the air cleaner removed. Has it been running and suddenly stopped or has the car been in storage? Check engine light? I hope you have a factory service manual....

 

Just saw your last post. When I had a problem like this I found my Throttle Position Sensor was way out of range. I got a new one, but it was bad out of the box which was unusual and made me question my troubleshooting. After getting another new one I was able to adjust it and the settings have held.

 

Yes I got a used manual from ebay. This car was sitting it a garage for close to 20 years. First thing I did was drop the gas tank. I purchased a new tank and fuel pump assembly from Volunteer Vett. Blew out all the metal lines and replaced all the rubber and fuel filter. Started right up. Then when idling one day the idle slowed down then stalled out?
Replaced the oil pressure switch and checked for spark which was good.
Did not see a CEL light but will try starting and look again.

 

Clogged injectors.

Spray some brake clean into throttle body and crank. If it runs its fuel related.

 

No, look at the Mov I attached to the first thread. Shower heads are working fine. Get that little sprits when first turning the key then a full cone after.

 

Decided to look into the CEL light. Looks like the light has been constantly on, I believe the bulb is bad. Was able to read the codes with a test light from the connector all I got was 12 with the CEL constantly on after removing the jumper?

 

1 than 2 three times should be no codes, As stated above have you checked the TPS, also remove a plug and see if its wet with fuel, if so this could be no spark or weak spark.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...solutions.html

 

It's an 82 it's not supposed to start ! ( Authentic "SHOW CAR" )

 

Cleaned the ECM connections, Checked for codes all I got was 12, 12, 12, no code. Did note the CEL light stays on with the key in the pwr position (Does not go off after 15 sec). Put in a new TPS and the engine will start then dies after running for about 10 seconds. Think about distributor next.

See attached image, show engine running them cutting out.

 

Seems like once it does start it runs ok & not misfiring etc. Maybe fuel related ? ( delivery )

 

Exactly ^^^^^ Fuel filter? Fuel Pressure? Will it stay running if you physically supply some gas from a squeeze bottle (ketchup/mustard picnic style bottle works great for fuel priming/testing)? It's getting fuel, but is it enough fuel? I apologize if I haven't read the entire thread closely enough...
but 20 years of the fuel system sitting idle may require cleaning out the same components several times. In the past, I've looped the feed and return line together (3/8" hose, just keep tightening on the 5/16" return line) on the tank side of the lines....and then on the engine/firewall side, I'll make a couple 12"-24" hoses(using clear vinyl hose from a home improvement/hardware store) that have a filter(generic see-through ones that have 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" nipples molded together, where you cut off until it's the right size) in the middle of them, in both fuel line sizes...I then use a cheap external electrical fuel pump (powered by a booster pack/etc) and two, 2 gallon gas cans...1 with a gallon and a half of ethanol free gas and the empty to receive the fuel...I then pump it almost empty one direction and then switch my pump setup accordingly and pump it back the other direction! I'll repeat this as many times as needed, until fuel transfers clean visually through the vinyl hose and fuel filters. Then you know the fuel lines are clean/clear. Unhook the vent line on both ends and blow compressed air through it. Also, you have the sending unit/pump/pickup sock/strainer....condition? Then the injector side...partially clogged....gummed up? Anyway, point is, gas may be present, but is the pressure enough, what's the injectors fuel spray/cone pattern like, with the fuel filter removed, how hard is it for you to physically blow through with lung power? Sorry I rambled on, just to "second" the opinion of double check fuel delivery! Good luck👍

 

Quick n easy spark check:
connect timing light to any sp wire and crank motor over. If light pulses, that wire is firing.

 

Silly question, but did you do the resistance "set-up" of the TPS?

 

It turned out to be an intermittent coil....