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No start after a long drive: Starter or safety switch?
My 1975 Coupe has been incredibly reliable since I bought it from the original owner 2 years ago. With 43K miles on the odometer (2K by me), the car required servicing and some suspension work to make road worthy..... other than that, jump in and go.
After a 1 hour drive yesterday, in nice weather here in Phoenix, I went to a shop to look at another car I have that is having some major work done to it... way above my pay-grade. Came out, turned the key...... nothing. I could hear a faint click at the starter, all the instruments were functional, noticed a pretty high draw (20A) on the ammeter.... figured he starter solenoid was cooked BUT the shop owner came out and wiggled the AT shift lever around (yes TH400 auto) and the car started right up. Drove home and could not duplicate the same conditions.
I've had the console cover off before to fix the pulleys on the HVAC system... what a PITA to work on.... so before I take it of AGAIN to check the safety switch, are there any thoughts by the community?
Thanks for the help.
Ignitions coils can fail when they get hot and will function normally as they cool.
This is usually a sign that they are going bad.
Starter solenoids will do the same when they get heat soaked.
There are solenoids made to take high heat and they have a different colored cap to indicate they are made for high heat.
They are available from many forum vendors.
Does it start normally when cold? I had the same problem and it turned out to be a worn ignition switch. Could equally be the safety switch too. If you know how to jump the terminals on the starter you can easily verify whether it's the starter or the starter circuit.
^^^THIS^^^
that's THE FIRST thing to determine.
.
Go to your local auto electric shop (where they actually rebuild/repair Starters, Generators & Alternators). NOT your local big box parts store.
Your local AES will have a commercial-grade, carbon-pile battery Load Tester. That's the Only reliable method of determining battery condition.
Do it, pay the man; you'll be glad you did.
Battery is 3 months old, which of course doesn't mean it is good.
Went out to the shop and started the car yesterday.... all good. Perhaps contacts in the ignition switch were dirty. I sure don't want to take the that all apart.
Plan to jack up the car and have a look at the connections to ground and the starter this next week. Where is the ground cable from the battery typically located? Is there a supplemental cable from the motor to the chassis?
Thanks for the advice.
There is a ground cable that is bolted to the engine block and directly to the chassis.
When I purchased my 73 I had intermittent hard starting issues and it was the ground cable from the battery to the frame as pictured above.
My cables were tight and looked to be in great condition but after I removed about an inch of insulation the cable was green and corroded almost completely through.
After I installed a new cable my hard start issue went away.
figured he starter solenoid was cooked BUT the shop owner came out and wiggled the AT shift lever around (yes TH400 auto) and the car started right up. Drove home and could not duplicate the same conditions.
I've had the console cover off before to fix the pulleys on the HVAC system... what a PITA to work on.... so before I take it of AGAIN to check the safety switch, are there any thoughts by the community?
Thanks for the help.
I'm going with the neutral safety switch just being a smidge out of adjustment.
Battery is 3 months old, which of course doesn't mean it is good.
Went out to the shop and started the car yesterday.... all good. Perhaps contacts in the ignition switch were dirty. I sure don't want to take the that all apart.
Plan to jack up the car and have a look at the connections to ground and the starter this next week. Where is the ground cable from the battery typically located? Is there a supplemental cable from the motor to the chassis?
Thanks for the advice.
you said it.
When battery has great capacity, it often can & will overcome poor connections/corrosion Inside insulation; until it can't.
Had a good look at everything, except the safety switch, yesterday.
Ground cable between the starter and the motor mount was loose. Cleaned and tightened all the connections.
I am leaning towards the safety switch being out of alignment....putting the shift lever in neutral and moving the lever slightly forward, the car starts just fine. Moving the lever slightly rearward and no contact made, i.e. no start.
Drove the car 50 miles and did not have the same problem starting the car in park. Summer will be here soon, which will probably indicate if heat soak is a problem or not. The wires going to the starter all looked good, including the fusible links.
I don't want to remove the center console cover, having done this before.... but will do so if the problem persists.
Thanks for the detailed information.
I'd leave it alone if it starts reliably in Park (or neutral with a little wiggle). There are separate contacts for the 2 positions, the neutral one may just be a bit worn.