66 Brake feel
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 384
Likes: 111
From: Ringwood NJ
66 Brake feel
I have a 66 coupe & a 66 Vert. I upgraded both to dual master 1" bore non power. Both are L79. everything is new (but pads), calipers rebuilt, etc. One has much better pedal feel and stopping power. The other has a somewhat lesser feel and requires more effort. No air in the lines. I have no clue what pads are in either car. The coupe I had since 1986 and don't even recall when or what pads I put in, the vert I bought as a roller 4 years ago and I used the pads the guy gave me.
Has anyone upgraded to a brand of pad where they have seen an improved stopping power? I think since all things are equal but the pads, I'd start there.
Thanks!
Brian
Has anyone upgraded to a brand of pad where they have seen an improved stopping power? I think since all things are equal but the pads, I'd start there.
Thanks!
Brian
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 384
Likes: 111
From: Ringwood NJ
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 384
Likes: 111
From: Ringwood NJ
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,912
Likes: 5,460
From: Richardson Texas
Non-ferrous ceramic brake pads are premium friction materials composed of ceramic fibers, fillers, and non-iron binding agents (often including copper or brass). Designed for luxury and passenger vehicles, they provide quiet operation, minimal, light-colored dust, and excellent heat dissipation, making them ideal for daily, comfortable driving.
Key Characteristics and Benefits
Key Characteristics and Benefits
- Composition: Unlike semi-metallic pads (which use iron/steel), these use ceramic compounds that are lighter in color and non-abrasive to rotors.
- Noise & Dust: They are known for being extremely quiet, with very low noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH).
- Performance: They offer consistent braking over a wide temperature range and are generally more durable than organic pads.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 60
From: Buffalo New York
I did a total brake system change to all stainless steel on my '66 Coupe with non power brakes. Master cylinder, brake lines, parking brake hardware and calipers. It was filled with {purple) DOT 5 silicone brake fluid as required. My pedal feel was very different than the old factory system. A very hard pedal. Do you have the same fluid in both systems? Did you mix different grades together?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 384
Likes: 111
From: Ringwood NJ
Funny you bring that up....On the coupe I changed to DOT 5 with stock master around 13 years ago...everything flushed and rebuilt. Very hard pedal. Last few years right front caliper was weeping making a mess. rebuilt several times, couldn't stop it. Got two new calipers same problem. At that time )last winter) I decided to go back to DOT 3 and dual master. I too had SS lines. I could not bend the rear line to the new master location so put a new steel line, flushed all other lines, rebuilt remaining calipers and bought a brand new SS sleeved caliper for the weeper from CSSB (great people) and finally I have no leaks but again, the pedal feel is different and braking is less effective. I also felt the DOT 5 braking was lacking although hard pedal. No question all DOT 5 has been flushed completely from the system.
Le Mans Master
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All stainless steel lines, same DOT 5 fill since 2007
Funny you bring that up....On the coupe I changed to DOT 5 with stock master around 13 years ago...everything flushed and rebuilt. Very hard pedal. Last few years right front caliper was weeping making a mess. rebuilt several times, couldn't stop it. Got two new calipers same problem. At that time )last winter) I decided to go back to DOT 3 and dual master. I too had SS lines. I could not bend the rear line to the new master location so put a new steel line, flushed all other lines, rebuilt remaining calipers and bought a brand new SS sleeved caliper for the weeper from CSSB (great people) and finally I have no leaks but again, the pedal feel is different and braking is less effective. I also felt the DOT 5 braking was lacking although hard pedal. No question all DOT 5 has been flushed completely from the system.
DOT 5 can seep or leak where DOT 3 may not, but, its performance under pedal is no different than that of DOT 3 provided DOT 5 system is thoroughly bled. It can be harder to bleed if it is not understood that bumping or shaking the bottle aerates the stuff which tends to stay in suspension longer than bubbles in DOT 3. Once a DOT 5 system is bled it will function no different than 3. Lots of other variables, pedal leverage, master and caliper bore, travel but not DOT 5. When using 5, buy a bottle a couple weeks before and let it sit on the shelf quietly until needed. Then, pour slowly. Do that and you will be AOK.
If you have stainless lines you may find a DOT 5 fill requires you to mend some connections, but once mended it will stay dry and fresh ... for ever. It's worth it.
Dan
Last edited by dplotkin; Mar 13, 2026 at 03:00 PM.
When I installed my drum brakes to the SS lines , they leaked .
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 1,059
From: Florida
Non-ferrous ceramic brake pads are premium friction materials composed of ceramic fibers, fillers, and non-iron binding agents (often including copper or brass). Designed for luxury and passenger vehicles, they provide quiet operation, minimal, light-colored dust, and excellent heat dissipation, making them ideal for daily, comfortable driving.
Key Characteristics and Benefits
Key Characteristics and Benefits
- Composition: Unlike semi-metallic pads (which use iron/steel), these use ceramic compounds that are lighter in color and non-abrasive to rotors.
- Noise & Dust: They are known for being extremely quiet, with very low noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH).
- Performance: They offer consistent braking over a wide temperature range and are generally more durable than organic pads.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,134
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From: US-PNW
And, put a small dab of grease on the back of the flare so it doesn't get galled by the nut.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 1,059
From: Florida
Pro
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 618
Likes: 66
I am here reading because my dad's 65 has newer calipers (3 years old) and the mech can't stop the leaks. I assume it is DOT3 / 4 . All new lines and brakes basically. I don't understand why this issue on these cars. What is it about older cars that brakes are so different they leak? Even I can work on modern cars and not have leaks...
So I have this car with almost new calipers (65 conv 327) and my dad says we should put stainless steel sleeves in them. I don't even know what that is or how it would help. Is that the right next move? Or just get new brakes with a better design that doesn't leak from basically new?
Thanks for any advice..
So I have this car with almost new calipers (65 conv 327) and my dad says we should put stainless steel sleeves in them. I don't even know what that is or how it would help. Is that the right next move? Or just get new brakes with a better design that doesn't leak from basically new?
Thanks for any advice..
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,134
Likes: 4,243
From: US-PNW
I am here reading because my dad's 65 has newer calipers (3 years old) and the mech can't stop the leaks. I assume it is DOT3 / 4 . All new lines and brakes basically. I don't understand why this issue on these cars. What is it about older cars that brakes are so different they leak? Even I can work on modern cars and not have leaks...
So I have this car with almost new calipers (65 conv 327) and my dad says we should put stainless steel sleeves in them. I don't even know what that is or how it would help. Is that the right next move? Or just get new brakes with a better design that doesn't leak from basically new?
Thanks for any advice..
So I have this car with almost new calipers (65 conv 327) and my dad says we should put stainless steel sleeves in them. I don't even know what that is or how it would help. Is that the right next move? Or just get new brakes with a better design that doesn't leak from basically new?
Thanks for any advice..
Dan is absolutely correct that you need to isolate where the issue(s) are coming from. The vast majority of us have leak-free brakes using the original system design, so it's not a failure in that regard.
Stainless sleeves are something done by an outside company that specializes in these things. Lone Star and CSSB (Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes) are two commonly recommended sources. Unless your calipers are GM replacements from the 1980s or before, I'd bet they are already sleeved. Sleeving is done to restore a pitted original cast iron bore to specs and it resists rusting & pitting in the future. You'd know if the bores are pitted and seals leaking if the fluid is coming out in the middle of the caliper where the pistons are located.
If your new lines are stainless steel, they are known to be challenging to obtain good seals. Stainless is a harder material than the regular soft steel so doesn't conform to the mating seats as well – leading to seepage. If that's where you're getting leaks (any hard or soft line connection), consider a small copper cone washer to make better seal connections. Someone will provide a link to what's needed.