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My other thread got a bit long so I thought I'd start a new one.
My Long Block crate motor came in yesterday and I got it off my trailer and into my shop.
I met the truck driver on a dirt road off of my dirt road and transferred the crate to my trailer.
Back at my shop I raised the C3 up on the 4 post so I could off load the crate. The hardest part was lifting my narrow pallet jack up onto the trailer to move the crate to the rear. I'm glad I was wise lucky enough to buy a used narrow pallet jack all those years ago. Even so the crate skids were about 1/2" too low so I had to lift it up and put some 2x4's under it to get the pallet jack fully under. Using my engine hoist and some ratchet straps I lifted the crate up and pulled the trailer out. It was a whopping 30°F outside but I was sweating bullets by the time I closed the door.
Using some wood to support the crate so I could remove the engine hoist.
Well I had several options to consider.
(1) Rebuild the original engine with either new heads or rebuild the heads, new cam and lifters, new intake manifold and all new seals and gaskets.
I thought long and hard about this option but in the end decided I want a Vortec engine with a stock roller cam. I know I could have put an after market roller cam in but decided no.
(2) Buy a bare block and have the local machine shop fit the pistons and build from scratch.
Again a lot of thought and talking to the local machine shop owner who had some really nice CNC equipment I decided from a time stand point this option is out.
(3) Buy a crate short block.
Could not find one that fit what I wanted to have but Blueprint has the BP3505 now.
(4) Buy a crate long block.
This is a long story, to start with I tried to order a BP350CT from Blueprint but they were 60 days out so in a panic I ordered a BP3505CT only to realize that it idled at 950 RPM and only made 12 InHg of vacuum. So I refused delivery and Blueprint sold it to someone else right here in Poplar Bluff and refunded most of my money. It was also suggested that I get a GM 350/357 Vortec with iron heads but that engine was $1200 more and required premium fuel.
So what I ended up with is the Blueprint BP350CT from Summit Racing and the dyno sheet showed 351HP, idle 600 RPM with 18InHg vacuum and burns regular gas. The parts sheet showed stock torque converter for the BP350CT while the rest required a higher stall torque converter. For a cruiser this seems to be the perfect engine.
(5) A dressed engine won't fit so it's not an option
Just a note if you order from Blueprint there is a $299 shipping charge, if you order the same engine from Summit Racing shipping is free.
So now I have to figure out a few things to order like flex plate bolts, intake manifold gasket and there's a million to choose from. I need to order a harmonic balancer and the bolt and washer for that.
I have new intake manifold, water pump, engine mounts, carburetor. I need to determine if my current distributor has a melonized gear or not. I need to get plug wires that are cut to length and some sort of wire holders as it will be a lot easier to fit them when the engine is on the engine stand.
Anyway the crate is down and safe so next up is the remove the crate but it's really cold today so I have to start some fires in the shops first. The old engine is on the engine stand so I have to get it off and find a place to stash it. I hope no one calls and wants me to go out on a service call for a few weeks.
Any Vortec intake manifold gasket will do: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...IaAhUnEALw_wcB
Forgot about pre-cut ignition wires, they never fit right. Blueprint sells cut to length wires and Amazon sell ignition wire stripper/crimpers that works great.
I used these wire holders in black: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890041. They are a bit cheesy but they do the job. Maybe the Moroso versions of those holders are better quality.
Blueprint sells a harmonic balancer and bolt kit for your engine. Be sure to use a harmonic balancer installing tool.
No hammering allowed!
The intake manifold gasket on my engine looks to be .120 inch thick. The harmonic damper Bolt and washer comes with the blueprint harmonic damper. Blueprint makes it easy!
I always emailed a guy named Trevor, he sent me the balancer info a couple years ago and it comes with the bolt but I don't recall it being that much money... It's for an older 355 but that should not matter..
I always emailed a guy named Trevor, he sent me the balancer info a couple years ago and it comes with the bolt but I don't recall it being that much money... It's for an older 355 but that should not matter..
My next challenge is to swap places with the old motor on the engine stand and the new motor on the crate. I might move some stuff so I can lift the old motor off with the gantry crane, you can see one leg of it next to the air compressor.
I went out to the garage and I measured the distance between the intake manifold and the head and I got an average of .090 of a inch so it is the thicker of the two gaskets.
If ya use Vortec L31-type Lower intake gaskets, it may be useful to know a bit about history of Vortec Lower intake gasket failures; including failure modes and improved gaskets which solved the problems. First recognize how Vortec Lower intake gaskets are not bolted straight on (as OE C3 are), but at an oblique angle. Subsequent clamping dynamics are 'different' to say the least.
Many different materials and type gaskets were developed; some much better than others.
In my experience, the more recent designs which start with a Metal Carrier (either steel, or aluminum, or aluminized steel) with elastomer Viton FKM rubber "rings" bonded onto Both sides of metal carrier and surrounding each port (both intake & coolant), And including torque limiters. Recognize, GM never ever used any formed, china wall gaskets in any Vortec motor Lower intake (only carefully applied beads of RTV with specified "tails" up & onto intake gaskets; as per GM's FSM).
Of course, do as ya please, but I recommend either of following Vortec Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. Neither are 'cheap'. MAHLE / CLEVITE P/N MS20136
FEL-PRO P/N MIK98000T (in FP, have to get whole set of both upper & lower to get the "good" lower gaskets).
For your convenience, here's a link to free PDF download of Genuine GM Powertrain Service manual for both L30 (5.0L) & L31 (5.7L) Vortec Engines.
Correct Info, Good-Detailed Drawings & Images, Proper Specs, Proper Techniques. I HIGHLY suggest following its lower intake manifold install procedures.
*** if ya run a spreadbore carb on Vortec-type Lower Intake, the following is a decent china piece and this one has about as low pad height profile as any I know. It's truly intended for spreadbore; although squarebore can fit (similarly as EB P/N 2101 is to OE C3 heads). Professional Products P/N 52007
**** And a Pioneer P/N DA-3502 Harmonic Balancer aka Damper will get the job done for you. 8" OD, Very Good Quality but Not SFI. Download a Pioneer engine parts cat. Has all those bits & pieces & more you're gonna be huntin' for.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Mar 17, 2026 at 05:37 PM.
*** if ya run a spreadbore carb on Vortec-type Lower Intake, the following is a decent china piece and this one has about as low pad height profile as any I know. It's truly intended for spreadbore; although squarebore can fit (similarly as EB P/N 2101 is to OE C3 heads). Professional Products P/N 52007
**** And a Pioneer P/N DA-3502 Harmonic Balancer aka Damper will get the job done for you. 8" OD, Very Good Quality but Not SFI. Download a Pioneer engine parts cat. Has all those bits & pieces & more you're gonna be huntin' for.
Thanks for all that info and I downloaded the pdf. I'm using a 600 CFM Holley so square bore.
That block doesn't have a coolant bypass so be sure to drill holes in the thermostat to ensure coolant circulation while the thermostat is closed. Four 3/16" holes should suffice.
That block doesn't have a coolant bypass so be sure to drill holes in the thermostat to ensure coolant circulation while the thermostat is closed. Four 3/16" holes should suffice.
My manifold has a built in metered bypass and came with a fitting and a hose.
Installing a New Long Block in the 82
