Needing a new fuel.pump, the $30 Kenso or whatever Amazon brand I bought decided it didn't want to work anymore (welding earbu may not have helped), and then decided taking apart would fix it. I don't trust that, so I'm upgrading to a quality American made pump. Aeromotive won out over Walbro because frankly their product line made more sense lol.

Aeromotive recommends upgrading your wiring. Fair enough. While this is WAY more fuel pump than I need for my bolt on LT1, I'm a believer in doing things right. Plus, I have 4 GA power wire run just inside the hatch for my amps, so running a power wire from there out for the fuel pump is no big deal at all.

My question is, what are people doing to bring the power inside the tank? Reusing the yellow clip on factory connector? Drilling a hole in the backing plate and bringing power directly in with a gland of some sort? I could definitely hijack power after the connector and just neck down to the factory wiring for a short time to get into the tank, and that likely could handle the power draw over a short distance (especially given the harness Aeromotive uses to hook up the pump is very small wire too). But before I just go the easy route I wanted to see what others were doing and have done for this.

 

I just installed the AEM pump on my 95 lt1 with vortech supercharger. It works fine with the factory wiring as long as the fuel pressure doesn't go past 45 psi. If you look at their pump wiring connector that comes with the pump where you cut and splice it to the in-tank connector you'll see it's slightly larger. Do away with the leak prone pulsator by using the hose supplied with the pump. And run a fuel pressure regulator with a gauge, they sell a good adjustable regulator too, and it's rebuildable. My pump at WOT has never failed me so far and pressure was steady at 41psi. Im using the stock fuel lines and filter too. Just make sure you solder the wire connector to the wires you cut from the original pump unit and heat shrink the joints. Don't use crimp connectors. I'm not an expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once. 😄 🤣 😂 😄

 

I ran a Aeromotive 340 on the standard wiring and it ran fine. Despite the internet experts declaring that I was likely to die in a fiery explosion, it didn't happen.
After the disappointment of not exploding, I did eventually put a Racetronix C43 fuel pump wiring harness in.

 

I second the racetronix harness. Easy to install, tucks up nicely behind the rocker panel and in the rear wheel well. My fuel pump voltage now stays rock steady, 14.4v at all times.

 

How does the racetronix harness bring power inside the tank? Does it just plug in to the factory plugs?

 

Here is a post i did on my install for info
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-install.html

 

Thanks. So it really does just plug into the factory harnesses. I can replicate that easy enough.

 

So, I didn't replicate that, lol.

I decided to run 10 gauge wire to my fused distribution block in the car for my amps. I decided to drill a hole in the sending unit assembly to the left of the filler and had just enough room for a sealing bulkhead. That allowed me to run 8 awg power and ground into the tank for the pump, where I crimped and heat shrinked the big wires to the wires from my aeromotive harness. I used the factory fuel pump wiring to trigger a relay that feeds the new pump, and used a few new weather pack connectors to make everything removable for service.

It worked out well. It's overkill for sure, but I didn't want to deal with another import fuel pump of dubious quality.


Edit: I lied. It idles nicely, but it runs poorly. Lots of surging. A quick googling indicates that in some applications aeromotive says you cannot use a stock fuel pressure regulator. Some sources are talking about it "overpowering" the stock FPR with too much flow. Did y'all use stock FPRs?

 

I called them. They said the OEM style fuel.oressure regulator wasn't going to work with basically any of their pumps. And definitely not the stealth 340. So that sucks. So now I have to decide if I want to invest another $250 into an adjustable FPR (that I don't really need) or if I swap out the aeromotive for a Delphi or similar stock pump (which I was going to do from the get go but wanted an American made quality pump, sigh).

 

Call F.I.C. they have REAL Walbro pumps at reasonable prices. A 255LPH should be plenty for your car.

 

I'm gonna just switch to a Deatshworks DW100 or DW200. Have an email in to them about if the DW200 will for with the factory FPR. Probably will go with the DW100 though.

 

The DW is a nice unit. I run that on my 84. The important thing for me was unlike the walbro, they're silent. That being said you will get better performance from the walbro for the same size but... I'll never make enough power to capitalize on that.

 

I run the Racetronix wire kit and their 340 pump, with a Holley hydromat sock, and aeromotive regulator. I removed the factory connection on the pump housing and put a regular bulkhead fitting on that the wires pass thru. They do have a 255 pump that may suit you better? I think I have a new one in the box and my old adjustable factory style regulator if you're interested?

 

Aeromotive said the 255 will probably overpower my stock FPR too.

I think I'm gonna just run the DW100, it should be "easy".

 

Perhaps look into a PWM controller so you don’t over power the stock FP regulator AND the stock return line. That’s how I manage the Walbro 450 (Hellcat) fuel pump. Wiring I used the Racetronix connector but there are probably better bulkhead connectors out there from Radium maybe.

I did run a Racetronix 255 kit in the past with the 350 and it worked fine with the with the stock pluming and FPR.

 

Without our HD harness and the bulkhead wiring upgrade this in-tank harness will not work.

 

I used the C43 and C44 harnesses when I installed the 255lph pump

 

Please post actual RX part numbers or your six-digit order number.

 

Order numbers 259767 and 260111

RX part numbers BCWA-C44, RXP255E2, FPWH-013

 

For those following at home, I swapped over to the DW100 pump. Really nice set actually, it comes with a gasket, new bolts, new rubber hose and clamps, and new in tank wiring (not just a little stub either - it's a whole harness that clips onto the spade terminals at the factory bulkhead. It also has an extra connector I have no idea what it goes to, maybe an aux pump?).

It's a nice setup overall, and I highly recommend it. That said, my car still isn't running right, lol. It's running better, but not quite right. Not sure what's the issue yet... It's possible that the aeromotive pump destroyed the FPR I have on the car with too much flow? The less ideal possibility is that my new tune from PCM of NC is just not quite right, but that seems Improbable. Unfortunately I changed the pump and the chip out at the same time like a rookie and do now I can't really say specifically which is the issue.

Gotta put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what it's reading I suppose. It starts up nice, but the idle is a little rough, and it has like a dead spot at around d 2000rpm that feels weird and sounds weird. It's also stalled out twice with the clutch in, but immediately restarted. The weird part is above 2000-3000rpm it runs great, and it rips with the new tune and headers on. I have a spare FPR that I think is fine as well, so I may just swap that in after looking at the fuel pressure gauge