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I replaced my balancer without dropping the sub-frame or removing the steering rack. I wanted to share it with anyone who is dreading the job.
I found this video on YouTube, it is brief and lacks some details but it looked like a much easier alternative to the 2 common methods.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Sq-e462nrEI
So I replaced mine yesterday, took me about 6 hours including 2 trips to the store to pick up some deep sockets I didn’t own.
Here is the process:
Turn wheels to the right and remove the boot and passenger side tie rod.
Remove fan assembly.
I removed the air intake parts to replace my belts.
Remove passenger side rack mounting bolt and loosen driver side bolt.
I laid a 2x4 across the engine bay and used a ratchet strap to hold the rack up just enough to get to the crank bolt. There is enough room to remove it and pull the crank pulley.
I installed the crank seal, new pulley and pinned the crank.
I’m pretty sure with access to a lift instead of jack stands this is doable in 3-4 hours.
I did it once for a friend, and left the rack in the car as you suggest, just unbolted and lifted up out of the way. We were in a shop on a lift and it was not a bad job at all.
I did it once for a friend, and left the rack in the car as you suggest, just unbolted and lifted up out of the way. We were in a shop on a lift and it was not a bad job at all.
I'm sure every job is easier on a Corvette with a lift. Sigh.
I'm sure every job is easier on a Corvette with a lift. Sigh.
Almost any job on any car. When I was a young buck I pulled engines, did clutch jobs, whatever it took all in my dads driveway on my back. Now, after 20 years working in shops, you couldn't pay me enough to do that heavy work on the floor. I did a clutch on a Fiat 500 for a buddy the other day, in a friends shop with a lift, and there's still almost no amount of money that would make it worth doing. I must be getting old.
I like that you said that you didn't have to remove the steering rack and then proceeded to explain that you had to "remove" the steering rack. Regardless, I'm glad you got it done.
I like that you said that you didn't have to remove the steering rack and then proceeded to explain that you had to "remove" the steering rack. Regardless, I'm glad you got it done.
I did not remove the rack, I merely removed the passenger side bolt and loosened the driver side so I could rotate it up and out of the way.
Power steering lines were not disconnected nor was the column linkage. This is moving the rack, not removing it.
Good thinking and helpful ideas on how to do that job. For crank bolt did you use a impact or a long pry bar. Was this on a dry sump motor. If not anybody know if this process would work on dry sump motor as the balancer in the front is different.
Good thinking and helpful ideas on how to do that job. For crank bolt did you use a impact or a long pry bar. Was this on a dry sump motor. If not anybody know if this process would work on dry sump motor as the balancer in the front is different.
I used an impact to remove the old bolt, I used a torque wrench to tighten the ARP bolt to 235 ft lbs.
My car is a 2006 base so no dry sump but I believe the process will work on a dry sump car.