I’m in the middle of installing a GenIV Vintage Air system in my 73.
I’m at the point where I install the heater control valve into the heater hose.
I’ve read through numerous threads about members having many repeated failures with the earlier valves and many failures with the current electrically controlled servo valve like the one supplied in my kit.
Some members replaced the valve with a manual valve in line with the heater hose and simply open the valve manually when they want heat.

I’m thinking about doing the same and delete a problem before it starts.

I’ve read through numerous older threads and some newer ones discussing the valve swap but there has been no discussions about if they had any issues caused by removing the servo valve or what if any wiring changes they had to make to the VA system.

I’m assuming they just unplugged the connector and replaced the valve but we all know what happens when we assume.

If anyone has removed and replaced the electrically controlled servo heater control valve in their Vintage Air system and replaced it with a manual valve, please let me know if you had to modify any wiring or if you just unplugged the connector and if doing so created any other issues with the VA system?

Thanks in advance
Greg.

 

I'm having an issue with my control valve as well. Mine seems to be stuck closed (that is good I guess for the summer). Mine is making a slight buzz all the time and creating a parasitic draw on the battery. Is this your issue?

 

Thanks for responding.
Your response confirms my suspension that the new valves continue to be problematic.
I’m just installing my kit now, but that is the problem that has been discussed.
The valves are failing, staying on and drawing current even when the ignition is off and buzzing continuously while the key is on.
There were a couple posts where the older valves actually melted from overheating.
Vintage Air sells a manual valve that a couple C2 owners installed that can be manually opened and closed with the attached cable that is run through the firewall and mounted up under the dash and out of site.
I’m thinking I will install my manual valve against the inner fender and just open the valve in the winter and close it in the spring.

I just don’t know if disconnecting the electrical connector will in any way effect the way the system functions.
The wiring schematic shows the hard wiring but does not show the circuit wiring in the module.

 

Apparently Vintage Air purchases the valves from a separate vendor and they do not manufacture the valves themselves.
They have replaced the valves for free to anyone having the issue, however reading through all the older threads even those who have received replacement valves have had those replacement valves fail as well.

 

I have installed a couple Vintage Air systems and want to remember that it is good to install a heat shield for this little plastic control valve (little plastic valve; correct?) And I suggest you call Vintage Air tech for advice too

Hope this might help.

 

I have looked at a couple sets of drawings and to me the valve is either open or closed...If there was an encoder built into the valve (monitoring position) it would need to be installed as part of the circuit but I don't see that.

 

That is a big help!
Thanks,

 

Today I called Vintage Air and talked with one of their customer service representatives about replacing their heater control valve with a manual valve
I also asked them if it would cause any problems with the functions of the ac system.
They told be it would not cause any problems and I would not need to modify the wiring or the system in any way.
So I ordered a new manual valve which should be here on Friday.