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Sub Amp choice for C6 vert
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Joined: Oct 2025
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Sub Amp choice for C6 vert
Okay, I have a Kenwood nav unit, Jl audio C2 3.5's for the upper doors, infinity tweets for dash corners, C2 5.25 separates for behind the seat. Also have alpine Kta 450 50 wattsx4 to drive the speakers. I've also purchased RF R2D2 10" subs to put in the doors. With sounds good block off plates to enclose the doors. Now to the question. I have an extra KTA 450 that I can bridge to 100 watts per channel for the 2 10's rated for 100-200 rms in the doors. Want opinions on if that's enough amp or if I need to go to a large mono amp for the subs?
Let me know what your thoughts are and why. I don't want to lose any space in the car as we want to travel in it next year when the wife retires.
also not looking for car shaking bass, just good quality rounded out sound for 8 hour a day drives. Thanks to all who respond.
Let me know what your thoughts are and why. I don't want to lose any space in the car as we want to travel in it next year when the wife retires.
also not looking for car shaking bass, just good quality rounded out sound for 8 hour a day drives. Thanks to all who respond.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Melbourne, FL
100W to those speakers in the doors is more than enough to rattle the hell out of the doors, block off plates or not.
Expect to spend a lot of time on dampener and foam on those door panels.
Expect to spend a lot of time on dampener and foam on those door panels.
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Okay, it turns out that my alpine 4ch amp doesn't have a low pass filter and can't be used for subs.
so that makes the deciding simple. 350 watt mono sub amp ordered. So split between the 2 r2sd2-10 subs that will send 175 watts to each. Thanks to those that participated.
so that makes the deciding simple. 350 watt mono sub amp ordered. So split between the 2 r2sd2-10 subs that will send 175 watts to each. Thanks to those that participated.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2012
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Likes: 6,473
From: Melbourne, FL
I commend you for trying to "make it work". I'm not wired that way, lol. I would be not worrying about the LPs at all because I'd run them active via a DSP (you're almost certainly going to want a HPF and a LPF for them to reduce resonance and rattles).
That said, those are deep subs at over 4.5". They're also very low Qts for this application at 0.47, for a free air use case like a door you ideally want around 0.707 Qts, as you have no box airspace to influence the Qtc..they also don't play particularly high only hitting 250Hz, or deep only hitting 45 Hz. They are not ideal for this use case.
I'll be interested to watch your updates while I plan my stereo endlessly lol.
That said, those are deep subs at over 4.5". They're also very low Qts for this application at 0.47, for a free air use case like a door you ideally want around 0.707 Qts, as you have no box airspace to influence the Qtc..they also don't play particularly high only hitting 250Hz, or deep only hitting 45 Hz. They are not ideal for this use case.
I'll be interested to watch your updates while I plan my stereo endlessly lol.
Last edited by FAUEE; Today at 09:21 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2025
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Alpine amp has the hpf's and now the subs have the lpf through the sub amp. Now waiting on speaker adapters to space the subwoofers out as they interfere with the window.
the Kenwood I installed has the DSP built into it. But crutchfield tech recommended a seperate lpf for safety reasons to protect subs and amps.
the Kenwood I installed has the DSP built into it. But crutchfield tech recommended a seperate lpf for safety reasons to protect subs and amps.
