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"Overheating" Issues, Cant figure out

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Old May 5, 2026 | 03:18 PM
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Default "Overheating" Issues, Cant figure out

Hey everyone,
Looking for some input on what the issue could be for my 79, non-original motor, has a 350 in it from on older 72-75 c10/20, Cam, Headers, aluminum radiator, Electric fans. The issue I'm having right now is:
  • At idle, temps sit right around 180 and stay steady
  • Once I start driving, the gauge climbs to 220–240, especially under load or going uphill
  • As soon as I stop and let it idle, the gauge drops back down pretty quickly
The confusing part is when I check temps with an IR thermometer right after driving:
  • Upper radiator hose: usually around 195–215
  • Thermostat housing: around 170–190
  • Lower radiator hose: around 180–205
Even when the gauge is showing close to 240, I’m not seeing those kinds of temps at the hoses or housing.

For context, I’ve already:
  • Replaced the temp sensor
  • Installed an aftermarket mechanical gauge (same readings)
  • Burped the system
  • Verified the lower hose has a spring
The car runs great otherwise, no loss of power, no signs of actual overheating.

Curious if anyone has run into something similar where the gauge reads high under load, but actual measured temps don’t fully match up.

Appreciate any input, just trying to get this figured out so I can feel confident driving it more.

Thanks!
- Troy
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Old May 5, 2026 | 04:23 PM
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Chev did move the coolant temp sensor from the head, up to the intake manifold. I suspect to obtain more accurate gauge readings. Where is your sensor located currently?
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Old May 5, 2026 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by C3Cruiser
Chev did move the coolant temp sensor from the head, up to the intake manifold. I suspect to obtain more accurate gauge readings. Where is your sensor located currently?
The sensor is in the intake next to the thermostat
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Old May 5, 2026 | 04:32 PM
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Have you verified your current ignition timing? Possibly too retarded? That can cause heat issues.
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Old May 5, 2026 | 04:47 PM
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Check timing first...But sounds like an air flow problem...Or, a coolant flow problem...Is the air properly ducted through the radiator as it should? Is the radiator of proper size? Meaning is the radiator the right one for the car?
According to what you are saying is, "It cools fine at an idle/or not moving".
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Old May 5, 2026 | 04:47 PM
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willymot
Sounds to me like your gauge is not reading correctly. Probably the wrong temp sensor.

Those temp sensor have a somewhat restricted operating range and yours sound like one of those. I've tested several on my own car. I'll find a link for you to read but I really think that is all it is since you checked temps with your temp gun.

Do you have the old temp sensor?
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Old May 5, 2026 | 04:53 PM
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pics of cooling set up? and spoiler? good radiator?
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Old May 5, 2026 | 04:56 PM
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willymot
You can follow my temp sender experiments here. When you read the thread you will see that they seem to be reading ok and then the real temp goes beyond their "accuracy" range and the readings start deviating quite far from real temp.

Do you have the original temp sender (hopefully?). If the original sender is good and if you can find a wilcox adjustable resistor (ebay??) then you can probably dial it in. Read the thread below for other somewhat adequate options --- that is if you can find the willcox adjustable resistor to dial the gauge in.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
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Old May 5, 2026 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by carriljc
willymot
You can follow my temp sender experiments here. When you read the thread you will see that they seem to be reading ok and then the real temp goes beyond their "accuracy" range and the readings start deviating quite far from real temp.

Do you have the original temp sender (hopefully?). If the original sender is good and if you can find a wilcox adjustable resistor (ebay??) then you can probably dial it in. Read the thread below for other somewhat adequate options --- that is if you can find the willcox adjustable resistor to dial the gauge in.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
I do, I bought an aftermarket sender with a gauge to test with and it was showing the same results as the in car sender. But I did verify timing today, everything is good, took the car on a 15 minute drive, again went up to 230, was still 230 when I got home, I immediately popped the hood and the gauge still said 230 , but the upper rad hose said 200 and the thermostat housing said 150. Another I found though is that the #1 cylinder exhaust header is reading 300 Degrees lower than the rest. Going to pull plug tomorrow
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Old May 5, 2026 | 07:32 PM
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How old is the radiator? I had similar experience a long time ago in a 300ZX. I eventually figured out tht there was crud in the bottom of the radiator which was restricting the flow at the bottom hose. I put a new one in and problem solved. I would suggest flushing it out but again, my experience is when you flush it out, you get rid of al the crud that was keeping all the little holes from leaking.
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Old May 5, 2026 | 08:09 PM
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either fiddle with the sender and gauge or learn to tell your self the gauge reads 30* high
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Old May 5, 2026 | 08:53 PM
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I suspect you should stick with reading the temp on thermostat housing. Just for consistency.

I'll try to get out this week and take readings on my thermostat housing with the temp gun. Pretty sure I have but don't have pictures. Then I can report what the temp is in comparison to my temp readings.


Originally Posted by willymot
I do, I bought an aftermarket sender with a gauge to test with and it was showing the same results as the in car sender. But I did verify timing today, everything is good, took the car on a 15 minute drive, again went up to 230, was still 230 when I got home, I immediately popped the hood and the gauge still said 230 , but the upper rad hose said 200 and the thermostat housing said 150. Another I found though is that the #1 cylinder exhaust header is reading 300 Degrees lower than the rest. Going to pull plug tomorrow
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Old May 5, 2026 | 09:40 PM
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I'd trust the IR gun before I'd trust the stock sensor. I have a 3-wire sensor hooked up to an Arduino when I really want to know what the temperature is when running.

Squeeze the lower radiator hose to make sure the anti-collapsing spring is still installed. Then go enjoy your car.

What is your timing set to, BTW?
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Old May 5, 2026 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by C3Cruiser
Chev did move the coolant temp sensor from the head, up to the intake manifold. I suspect to obtain more accurate gauge readings. Where is your sensor located currently?
when (year&model) did GM move the coolant temp sender For Gage from Gen I sbc driver head to manifold ?
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Old May 5, 2026 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelyell
when (year&model) did GM move the coolant temp sender For Gage from Gen I sbc driver head to manifold ?
From Grok
  • In some 1980s GM trucks (e.g., certain 1985–1986+ square-body applications with TBI), the gauge sender could appear in or near the intake, especially if the vehicle used a combined or relocated setup for emissions/ECM reasons. However, even then, head-mounted gauge senders were common.
gmsquarebody.com
  • Corvettes (C3/C4 transition) and passenger cars: The head location persisted through the end of C3 production (1982) and into early C4s. Relocations to the intake were more often owner/modifications (e.g., for clearance, aluminum heads without the port, or aftermarket intakes).
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Old May 6, 2026 | 01:49 AM
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Reading through all of this. And having had similar issues in the past.
one of two issues or perhaps both. Ignition timing off idle. Also check vacuum timing.
And electric fans mounted on a flat pan. ? Guessing here as you state electric fans. But don't proudly tell us what electric fans. Moving down the road your fans shouldn't even need to run if you have a spoiler and all your rad seals are in place. But some electric fans mounted on a flat pan will actually block air flow.
Gen. GM C5 Corvette fans work extremely well and don't block air flow. Mine never need to run moving. My temps stay at 180 on a 100 degree day.
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Old May 6, 2026 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by C3Cruiser
Chev did move the coolant temp sensor from the head, up to the intake manifold. I suspect to obtain more accurate gauge readings. Where is your sensor located currently?
Originally Posted by Rebelyell
when (year&model) did GM move the coolant temp sender For Gage from Gen I sbc driver head to manifold ?
The final iteration (MY1996-up) of Gen I sbc (Vortec RPO L31 350ci 5.7L & RPO L30 305ci 5.0L) retained coolant temp sender location For Gage in driver head; and for good reason *. I've owned several & serviced many more; No AI required. It's true there were OE coolant temp senders located in Some sbc intake manifolds, but those were fitted by GM for use with vehicles' Gubmint-required emissions-compliant systems (but Not For Gage).

*identical OE location as in all sbc C3; although senders' size & thread is reduced. Gage senders' signal is most reliable when sender is submerged within a continuously moving stream of liquid coolant; devoid of air pockets.
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Old May 6, 2026 | 05:00 PM
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Electric fans running backwards?
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Old May 6, 2026 | 05:10 PM
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why are you guys trying to fix something that is not broken. his IR gun is telling you his engine is not over heating
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Old May 6, 2026 | 08:57 PM
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willymot

Carburetor? Quadrajet?

Is your vacuum advance connected to manifold or ported?

What is your ignition advance at 3000 rpm with vacuum advance plugged AND with VA connected? Use a dial-back strobe to measure.

Mapman
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