"Overheating" Issues, Cant figure out
Looking for some input on what the issue could be for my 79, non-original motor, has a 350 in it from on older 72-75 c10/20, Cam, Headers, aluminum radiator, Electric fans. The issue I'm having right now is:
- At idle, temps sit right around 180 and stay steady
- Once I start driving, the gauge climbs to 220–240, especially under load or going uphill
- As soon as I stop and let it idle, the gauge drops back down pretty quickly
- Upper radiator hose: usually around 195–215
- Thermostat housing: around 170–190
- Lower radiator hose: around 180–205
For context, I’ve already:
- Replaced the temp sensor
- Installed an aftermarket mechanical gauge (same readings)
- Burped the system
- Verified the lower hose has a spring
Curious if anyone has run into something similar where the gauge reads high under load, but actual measured temps don’t fully match up.
Appreciate any input, just trying to get this figured out so I can feel confident driving it more.
Thanks!
- Troy
According to what you are saying is, "It cools fine at an idle/or not moving".
Sounds to me like your gauge is not reading correctly. Probably the wrong temp sensor.
Those temp sensor have a somewhat restricted operating range and yours sound like one of those. I've tested several on my own car. I'll find a link for you to read but I really think that is all it is since you checked temps with your temp gun.
Do you have the old temp sensor?
You can follow my temp sender experiments here. When you read the thread you will see that they seem to be reading ok and then the real temp goes beyond their "accuracy" range and the readings start deviating quite far from real temp.
Do you have the original temp sender (hopefully?). If the original sender is good and if you can find a wilcox adjustable resistor (ebay??) then you can probably dial it in. Read the thread below for other somewhat adequate options --- that is if you can find the willcox adjustable resistor to dial the gauge in.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
You can follow my temp sender experiments here. When you read the thread you will see that they seem to be reading ok and then the real temp goes beyond their "accuracy" range and the readings start deviating quite far from real temp.
Do you have the original temp sender (hopefully?). If the original sender is good and if you can find a wilcox adjustable resistor (ebay??) then you can probably dial it in. Read the thread below for other somewhat adequate options --- that is if you can find the willcox adjustable resistor to dial the gauge in.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
I'll try to get out this week and take readings on my thermostat housing with the temp gun. Pretty sure I have but don't have pictures. Then I can report what the temp is in comparison to my temp readings.
Squeeze the lower radiator hose to make sure the anti-collapsing spring is still installed. Then go enjoy your car.
What is your timing set to, BTW?
- In some 1980s GM trucks (e.g., certain 1985–1986+ square-body applications with TBI), the gauge sender could appear in or near the intake, especially if the vehicle used a combined or relocated setup for emissions/ECM reasons. However, even then, head-mounted gauge senders were common.
- Corvettes (C3/C4 transition) and passenger cars: The head location persisted through the end of C3 production (1982) and into early C4s. Relocations to the intake were more often owner/modifications (e.g., for clearance, aluminum heads without the port, or aftermarket intakes).





one of two issues or perhaps both. Ignition timing off idle. Also check vacuum timing.
And electric fans mounted on a flat pan. ? Guessing here as you state electric fans. But don't proudly tell us what electric fans. Moving down the road your fans shouldn't even need to run if you have a spoiler and all your rad seals are in place. But some electric fans mounted on a flat pan will actually block air flow.
Gen. GM C5 Corvette fans work extremely well and don't block air flow. Mine never need to run moving. My temps stay at 180 on a 100 degree day.
*identical OE location as in all sbc C3; although senders' size & thread is reduced. Gage senders' signal is most reliable when sender is submerged within a continuously moving stream of liquid coolant; devoid of air pockets.





Carburetor? Quadrajet?
Is your vacuum advance connected to manifold or ported?
What is your ignition advance at 3000 rpm with vacuum advance plugged AND with VA connected? Use a dial-back strobe to measure.
Mapman













