When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Your finger needs to be recalibrated. I always would use the FEEL method but in your case( since you have a new washer, that will compress the first few times you tighten it) I would get a torque wrench on it. Just so you know for sure what that FEEL is.
Your finger needs to be recalibrated. I always would use the FEEL method but in your case( since you have a new washer, that will compress the first few times you tighten it) I would get a torque wrench on it. Just so you know for sure what that FEEL is.
Torque wrench won't fit, it would interfere with the bell housing.
It's possible, but I've done this countless times and never experienced a loose drain plug.
Is the nylon washer working against me? Should it even be there?
Thanks
I think kanvasman has a good comment that the new gasket may need to be seated better — and yes, you should have a plastic washer there. Make sure there are no metal burrs on the sealing surface of the pan or the underside of the bolt's head that can nick the plastic washer and allow oil to seep past.
Might you be able to snap a clear pic of the drain bolt in the pan? I'm imagining a GM bolt and pan, but that may not be what you have.
I think kanvasman has a good comment that the new gasket may need to be seated better — and yes, you should have a plastic washer there. Make sure there are no metal burrs on the sealing surface of the pan or the underside of the bolt's head that can nick the plastic washer and allow oil to seep past.
Might you be able to snap a clear pic of the drain bolt in the pan? I'm imagining a GM bolt and pan, but that may not be what you have.
Your finger needs to be recalibrated. I always would use the FEEL method but in your case( since you have a new washer, that will compress the first few times you tighten it) I would get a torque wrench on it. Just so you know for sure what that FEEL is.
You just need to apply German Torque - Guten Tight.
If car Not being judged; consider a sturdy, competition-grade, US-made pan that have some oil/windage-control improvements over OE.
Either Canton, Champ or Milodon brands.
* But do Not settle on a "Drag race" pan; those typically hang down too low for an already low-slung Corvette.
Last edited by Rebelyell; May 9, 2026 at 11:38 AM.
After dozens of oil changes is it possible the threads on the pan's drain bolt are just a bit looser than they were meant to be in the beginning? I would try a new oil pan bolt with a new sealing washer before replacing the entire oil pan.