Luckily the 65 is on the lift, but it just died. I cranked it over to start it, and everything was normal. It almost started, but died so I hit the key again and nothing. Or worse than nothing. The Ammeter pegs at -40 and the interior lights go way dim when I hit the key. But not even a hint of a crank.
So - what's the best place to start looking for the problem? Starter motor?
As always - Thanks!

 

Sounds like a dead battery

 

Since it's on a lift, it'll be easy to check voltage at the terminals on the starter while a helper turns the key to Start. Begin there, and post what you found.

Live well,

SJW

 

The good news is that it's really broke and that's much better than intermittant. The very first thing to try is to connect your DVM to the battery and then turn on the headlamps. If the voltage drops significantly under that load then it's a loose connection, bad ground, or weak battery. I would first establish that you have good battery voltage under a modest load like the headlamps. If the headlamps are normal and since the lights dim when you hit the starter that then strongly suggest the starter itself but only if you hear the click of the solenoid. A common problem is a loose connection at the starter's battery terminal since that connection feeds the rest of the car. Do these tests and we can go from there.

 

Since it doesn't crank, the lights go way dim and amp gauge shows a significant current draw, it sounds to me like it's a bad starter. The lights go back to normal bright after you stop trying to crank it, right?

 

Many thanks folks. I'm at our monthly Corvette meeting right now so I'll do some checks tomorrow morning.
The solenoid is not clicking when I turn the key. My battery is about 7 years old, so I think I'll replace it due to it's age and go from there.
I'm just grateful that this happened at the house.

 

when you get home give the car a hot shot and see what happens

 

Make sure DS firewall connectors are not loose. begee22

 

See post #5. With high current draw something is shorted out.

 

The fact that the lights dim and ammeter pegs left means everything is working but the starter - solenoid is working, wiring is OK, etc. The only thing that would cause this is a jammed or otherwise frozen starer that is trying to work.

 

or loose connection that won't pass the amps, or bad or dead battery that won't pass the amps...

i presume you own a battery charger? if not then that and a volt meter should be your 1st acquisition and great lifelong tools.

7 year old battery? even if thats not the problem its a good idea to replace it . splurge and get you the biggest baddest most cranking amp battery you can find.

 

OK - thanks again for the help. This forum is really special.
As I mentioned, due to the age of the battery, I'm going to replace it. My13 month old Interstate battery in our C5 just died a couple of months back, and it acted like this. It went from working fine to totally useless in just a few seconds. What happened to the good old batteries that would give you some early notice with slow cranking and then slowly die over several days or more?
This will be my first time replacing a battery on a C2. I've been searching thru the forum posts on it, and found this post among others that are helpful.
It looks like an uncomfortable job for an old guy, but what I've seen is to move - I think I'll remove - the surge tank, get a battery lifting strap and use the shorter group 34 battery.
Any other tips to get thru this?
We were planning on participating in tomorrow's Sequim, Wa annual parade with the 65. That'll be about a 150 mile mostly 60 speed limit round trip plus all the clutching in the parade. We'll have to see if I can get the old girl running again, and figure it out from there. It's been running really well, so I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

There is no need to remove the tank. There is enough slack in the heater hose that you can gently tie it out of the way

 

I took a look at my battery hold down, and I'm pretty sure it's an aftermarket replacement. It look like a shorter battery may or may not work with it. The bottom of the upper mount looks like it might interfere with the upper lip of the battery tray. I'd like the ease of installing the shorter battery, but I don't want to create problems either.
So - will the group 34 work with an aftermarket battery mount?

 

Without pictures, all you're gonna get are WAG. Also, you might consider an AGM battery...last longer and no acid spills.

 

Ya, thanks Leif I agree. I also took a look at the amount of threads on the hold downs, and it didn't look like there would be enough threads to mount a one inch shorter battery. I picked up a group 24 Interstate at Costco with a built in strap.
I did pull the surge tank, it was easy as I had just replaced it, and I might pull the hoses off of the heater core so I don't put any more stress on it. I had to move those hoses a lot more than I wanted to.
That battery was probably still good, it was reading 12 56 volts. Costco wouldn't do a load check on it. They only load check their batteries.
I'll be looking at that starter if the battery doesn't fix it, gulp.

 

Gary,
A battery at rest, fully charged can show that kind of voltage and still be bad. Under load, it will display tendencies as to what you're experiencing. Also, don't overlook the battery cables. Be sure both ends of both cables are clean and tight...even at that, they could have internal corrosion which could cause your current problem. Corrosion builds up inside the wire, which restricts the high current (amps) required to turn the starter motor.
Best of luck and keep us apprised of your progress.

 

Quite a few midyear owners have moved from the stock group 24 size batteries to Group 34s because they are roughly an inch shorter, making it a 'bit' easier to get in under the expansion tank on those with them.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

 

Lot's of great suggestions, Gary. All the best, Buddy!

 

I've had two batteries in my life that did exactly what yours has done. Working fine one minute and absolutely dead the next, and one of those was in "the good old days". I always assumed that they shorted internally.
I'm an old guy with a crappy back and recently replaced the battery in my '67. This was my solution that worked quite well.


Ted