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My tach cable is definitely sticking so i bought a new one but i cant sem to get a good grip on the gauge side of the cable. I was really hoping to not have to pull the dash. Any tricks out there?
drop the column, remove the screw in the fuse block, then replace one at a time the screws that hold the cluster in with 1/4-20 all thread and slide the cluster out a few inches.
drop the column, remove the screw in the fuse block, then replace one at a time the screws that hold the cluster in with 1/4-20 all thread and slide the cluster out a few inches.
What screw in the fuse block? the one by the high beams on the floor ?
Just did my 67 AC car today and didn’t have to unbolt or remove anything but the AC ducting.
If your eyesight is decent and you’re flexible enough to lay on your back on the floorboard, you can reach and unscrew the cable with one hand.
Rubber gloves (for grip) or long needle nose pliers may help to loosen it first. https://deluxespeedometer.com/
Helps to have a good quality cable also.
Just did my 67 AC car today and didn’t have to unbolt or remove anything but the AC ducting.
If your eyesight is decent and you’re flexible enough to lay on your back on the floorboard, you can reach and unscrew the cable with one hand.
Rubber gloves (for grip) or long needle nose pliers may help to loosen it first. https://deluxespeedometer.com/
Helps to have a good quality cable also.
Yea thats where I got my new one from along with the speedo one that I replaced when I did my trans. I can touch the cable end but cant seem to get enough oomph on it to break it free. Maybe just need a fresh attempt on it today
On my setup it seems like the Zbar is in the way from below but maybe a small pair and reach up and over from above? I was gonna see if I could have a friend try and turn the cable itself from the engine bay while i try on the connection behind the gauge.
I just did it on my '67 A/C car, it was not a big deal. Unhook the battery cable. If it's AC, remove the lower air duct on the driver's side. Using a super long needlenose pliers, use them vertically just behind the cig lighter and get on the cable ferrule nut. I'm arthritic so I use a big mirror to look at what I'm doing. Break it loose with the pliers and turn it until you're tired of turning it (since you can only turn it a few degrees each grab). Regular cheap extra long needle nose works, but even better if you have the type with the circle tips. With your left arm reach up around the backside of the cluster and you can get on the ferrule nut and spin it off. Long arms helps here but even with an AC car there was not much in the way. Remove cable and grommet from the engine side. Feed the new cable from the engine side and connect it to the tach first.
On the engine side, pull the dist shielding and the rear intake bolt that holds the plug wire loom and you can get at it easily from there. Order a new firewall grommet as yours is likely hard as a rock and will need to be replaced. Use a seal puller to install the grommet- pull on the puller using the curved tip to get the grommet into place once the cable is installed. On my '67 the grommet is a two-holer, the speedo cable also runs through it.
No cluster removal, column stays, no seat removal or anything. Flat rate is probably .6 or something if you're young and fast. Speedo guy says all mid years take the same cable so install should be similar or exact. Using the seal puller to install the rubber grommet. Pull on the puller to work the boot into place. Seal puller for installing the grommet. New and old cables.
replacing tach cable
