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Old May 11, 2026 | 07:03 PM
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The starter in one of my ‘65s just failed to stop spinning when I released the key. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. Is this a solenoid problem?
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Old May 11, 2026 | 07:12 PM
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Sounds like it's sticking
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Old May 11, 2026 | 07:19 PM
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That’s kinda what I thought. Looks like I’ll have to pull it. Is there a reputable rebuilder out there these days?
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Old May 11, 2026 | 07:26 PM
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sometimes a a very low battery condition will also cause the solenoid to stay engaged
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Old May 11, 2026 | 07:33 PM
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It could also be the ignition switch or a broken solenoid return spring. You really need to pull the starter and bench test him.
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Old May 11, 2026 | 07:43 PM
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Battery is fairly new and was at 95% after it cranked a while, so probably ok. I’m charging it now and will try again when full, but with someone manning the battery knife switch to shut it off if it sticks again.

I’m gonna pull the starter anyway, but hope to get it started, so I can drive it onto the lift.
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Old May 11, 2026 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettrocious
That’s kinda what I thought. Looks like I’ll have to pull it. Is there a reputable rebuilder out there these days?
Sounds like the solenoid.
If you’re capable of pulling the starter off, you’re capable of swapping out the solenoid.
Any FLAPS should have one for around $30

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Old May 11, 2026 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by anyChevy
Sounds like the solenoid.
If you’re capable of pulling the starter off, you’re capable of swapping out the solenoid.
Any FLAPS should have one for around $30
No problem changing it. Installed many starters, but, I haven’t actually changed only the solenoid since about 1969, so maybe a bit rusty…I’ll play with an old starter I’ve got sitting around for a few minutes to get a feel for the swap. Thanks.
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Old May 11, 2026 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettrocious
No problem changing it. Installed many starters, but, I haven’t actually changed only the solenoid since about 1969, so maybe a bit rusty…I’ll play with an old starter I’ve got sitting around for a few minutes to get a feel for the swap. Thanks.
Once the starter is out of the car, swapping in a new solenoid is, literally, a five minute job. It will all come back to you
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Old May 11, 2026 | 08:41 PM
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When you get the starter out, you should make sure that current is switched on and off at the 'S' terminal when the ignition is moved to the start position because the solenoid may be doing exactly what it's told to be doing.
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Old May 11, 2026 | 10:08 PM
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I have a vague memory of a TSB for this issue in the 60's and the 1st fix was a different solenoid plunger spring and later a new solenoid was available. The problem showed up after the engine was warm and the starter would not disengage. Maybe someone more skilled at searches than I can find it. It was more widespread than just corvettes.
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Old May 12, 2026 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Vettrocious
That’s kinda what I thought. Looks like I’ll have to pull it. Is there a reputable rebuilder out there these days?

If you're not in a hurry and in the neighborhood, Hans Auto Electric on Grand River in Wixom.
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Old May 12, 2026 | 12:24 PM
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I doubt the solenoid spring is warn with the little use these cars get. You can just take off and clean it. Takes a few minutes and may resolve your issue...
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Old May 13, 2026 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by m.geiger
If you're not in a hurry and in the neighborhood, Hans Auto Electric on Grand River in Wixom.
Hi Mike, good to hear from you. Neighborhood? That firm is literally 300 yds from my office & I never noticed it. The car is up here in Glen Arbor, so it doesn’t help much. I may just tow it down and fix it at the office, if I can’t fix it and bench test it here. If I come down and you’re available, I’ll buy you lunch…

(This is an original starter that was rebuilt by Chevy Cool a couple of years ago, but based on the fact that it only survived thirty or forty starts, I’m not sending it back there.)

P.S. How’s your engine coming?

Mike
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Old May 13, 2026 | 07:34 PM
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Hey Mike,
Werner still has the car. All the cosmetic work has been finished. The Trans has been rebuilt but the mechanic that is doing the engine hasn't finished up. Last I talked to him he took my starter to Hans for a rebuild. Once he gets all the add on stuff, carb, fuel line, fuel and water pump, etc from Werner he is going to break it in on his dyno. He's going to give me a call so I can be there when he does it. Should be within the week...........I hope. By this time last year, I already put on a couple thousand miles.
Hans has done a lot of rebuilds for me over the years and has been around longer than I can remember. It's a stand-up business.
Mike.
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Old May 13, 2026 | 08:02 PM
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The solenoid springs don't wear out but they can hot and lose tension.
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Old May 13, 2026 | 09:33 PM
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You say it spins with the key OFF as well as ON and START. It could well be a bad Bendix drive stuck in the flywheel. Loosen the starter bolts and listen if the Bendix comes back. You can also tap the starter with a hammer which will sometime bring it back.
Also as stated above, the solenoid spring may be weak and not pushing the Bendix drive out of the flywheel.
Then, I would disconnect the purple and pink or black with pink stripe wires at the starter and measure the voltage on each with the key in the off position. If you have voltage, it is in the wires or the ignition switch. A visual inspection of the wires back to the ignition switch will identify any melted insulation which could be shorted.
If the wiring is good, you have a bad ignition switch which I understand the 066 switch used in 65 is known to fail.
Just some ideas.
Ron
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Old Yesterday | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by R66
You say it spins with the key OFF as well as ON and START. It could well be a bad Bendix drive stuck in the flywheel. Loosen the starter bolts and listen if the Bendix comes back. You can also tap the starter with a hammer which will sometime bring it back.
Also as stated above, the solenoid spring may be weak and not pushing the Bendix drive out of the flywheel.
Then, I would disconnect the purple and pink or black with pink stripe wires at the starter and measure the voltage on each with the key in the off position. If you have voltage, it is in the wires or the ignition switch. A visual inspection of the wires back to the ignition switch will identify any melted insulation which could be shorted.
If the wiring is good, you have a bad ignition switch which I understand the 066 switch used in 65 is known to fail.
Just some ideas.
Ron
Thanks Ron. This happened while I was moving the car to roll my lift to the other side of the Garage Mahal (my wife’s nickname for it), so I haven’t gotten the car on it yet. (The lift shown below, before I drop it the last eighth of an inch) The challenge will be to push the dead Corvette up the ramps onto the lift…


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Old Yesterday | 07:46 AM
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You don't have to go under the car to test the wiring. Looking at the 65 schematic I have, the purple wire has a connector just above the distributor. If you disconnect it there, you can test for voltage coming from the ignition switch. Also, you can disconnect the pink (or black with pink stripe) at the + side of the coil and test for voltage with the key off to see if it has voltage, but if that wire to the R terminal is joined with the wire from the ballast resistor in the same connection lug, it will have to be disconnected at the solenoid or starter switch.
The purple wire to the S terminal activates the solenoid. The pink (or black with pink stripe) wire from the R terminal provides 12vdc to the coil during starter engagement. With the battery disconnected if you use your VOM multimeter to measure the OHMs between the wires at the + of the coil and the purple wire at the connector it should be infinite. If you get any reading, it is a short in the wiring to the starter or in the solenoid.
Maybe Jim or Jack or one of the gurus can verify these tests, as I am not infallible.
Ron
Beautiful Garage, wish I were not a junk saver and had the $$$$ to make mine shine.
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