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Due to my ignition switch failing I pulled the steering column out of my 82. To pull it out I removed the nuts at the firewall and had to use a ratchet clamp with the jaws backward to hold the right had bolt head in the square hole while I removed the nut. The left hand is a welded stud. I removed the plate from the engine compartment. This is how I did it with the engine out, it was similar with the engine in and I have no clue what the ratchet clamp was pushing against. The left side is the place where the carriage bolt is with the square shoulder.
Next I unbolted the rag joint and removed the pinch bolt from the upper half. Next I used a jack stand to support the steering column while I removed the two upper bolts. Then I lowered the steering column down watching the wires to a point where I could unplug the ignition wires, dimmer wires and turn signal/horn wires. Rotating the steering column 90° I was able to get the bottom plate to clear the brake pedal arm and remove it from the car.
Edit: The front ignition switch plug must be removed first as the rear blue plug has a tab that goes under the front black plug. Or you can remove them together.
After removing the hub with my puller the next step is to remove the plastic C clip retainer by pulling on the outer edge until it comes off.
In order to remove the C clip you need to press the lock plate down enough for it to drop out. I made a tool when I installed the canceling cam. The bolt must be screwed into the steering column far enough to lock the telescoping before turning the nut to push on the plate.
JT
Last edited by jthornton; May 15, 2026 at 07:57 AM.
After I removed the plate I noticed this ball bearing on the table and after a bit of research it's probably one of the upper bearings so now we are into a full rebuild and repaint.
At first I made this pivot pin extractor and it worked fine on one side but would not work on the key release side. The SHCS is a 8-32 and the bolt is a 3/8-24 with a hole down the middle.
So I made a different outside bit using a bit of 3/8" black iron pipe and cut a window in so I could see the pin coming out. Notice how close the key release lever is.
Here you can see the pivot pin coming out.
This is the two pivot pins and the puller.
You will need to pull the pins but you don't need to get fancy like I did.
Originally Posted by Jim Shea
Each of the pins has a tapped hole so you can use the special tool or jury rig a puller using a 8-32 screw, nut, washer, and a ½ inch or a 12mm socket. Bridge each pin with the socket and use the screw and nut to pull them out.
Justin is correct in that once you have the pivot pins pulled, you might just as well perform some further work. One particular nagging problem has to do with the four screws that attach the support to a plate that interlocks with the column jacket. They seem to loosen over the years. Remove the screws, one at a time. Apply locktite to the threads and reinstall and torque each one to 7 ft-lbs.
JT
Last edited by jthornton; May 15, 2026 at 04:05 PM.
Remove the bolt that holds the spring on and remove the spring, That lower leg has a U that hooks around the lock pin so just push the spring down to unhook it.
Now you can use a screwdriver to tap the flat pin down a bit and pull it out the other side and remove the gear and lock pin.
Now that you have the major pieces apart it is the easiest time to remove the turn signal assembly. Even with all those splices it came out pretty easy from the lower steering column. I think it would have been impossible before to remove it.
Now I wait on parts and clean and paint the steering column.
To remove the pivot block you need an E8 Torx socket. And as Jim predicted they were all loose.
The metal plate you lift it up and twist it to get it out.
The locking lever just pulls out and be mindful of the spring. The outer sleeve will just pull off at this point. You might need to wiggle it a bit as you pull.
JT
Last edited by jthornton; May 16, 2026 at 03:36 PM.
All the components have been removed from the steering column
Another view of the last bits to come out.
The steering column is ready to be cleaned and painted as well as the rest of the parts. Hopefully by the time the bearings arrive I'll have all the components cleaned and painted.
Nows a good time to have your brake booster rebuilt. If you plan on keeping the car long term ....I highly recommend it. Once sent in to a local rebuilder they will split the case and replace all the rubber components. I even went so far as to have the original brake master cylinder sleeved with a stainless insert. I sent it to a specialist in Minneapolis for that service.
Nows a good time to have your brake booster rebuilt. If you plan on keeping the car long term ....I highly recommend it. Once sent in to a local rebuilder they will split the case and replace all the rubber components. I even went so far as to have the original brake master cylinder sleeved with a stainless insert. I sent it to a specialist in Minneapolis for that service.
We don't have any local experts on rebuilding a brake booster... The time now is to get the steering column back in and drive. I have a new master cylinder. Something like that falls into the winter time maybe list when I'm not driving the car. Right now the only things I'm fixing are those that keep me from driving the C3.
JT
Last edited by jthornton; May 18, 2026 at 11:45 AM.
Very nice detailed pics, I hope my one year only '77 column is very close to this one. Having a thread like this to follow along with is fantastic....Thank you!
Was it late 78 that the steering column changed to the same as the 82? From watching videos the later steering columns seem similar. Take lots of photos of yours when you take it apart.
Rebuilding 82 T&T Steering Column
