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So today, after much procrastination due to fear of the unknown, I finally began to strip the paint off BIGBLU and temporarily make her not blue. I previously tried sanding some small sections and found that to be quite difficult and time consuming. I also tried using various plastic and metal razor blade tools with and without heat. That proved to also be slow, messy work. The metal blades also had the potential to gouge the fiberglass even when the ends where rounded, Some time ago, I read on the forum about a stripping product, so I checked it out and ordered a kit hopeful that it would work well and make the job easier. Well, today I'm happy to report that I'm pleased with the product and the results!
The product is from Coopers Strip Club an outfit down in New Zealand. They have distribution and phone support in various other countries including NZ, AUS, UK & USA. It's a 2 part system consisting of a stripper and and flusher. It works to remove both paint and varnish from wood, metal and fiberglass. Check it out on-line.
2 parts. Spray stripper on and wait for paint to soften then remove with their European steel wool or a scraper. After all paint is gone, spray the flusher on and use a grit pad to work it in and then wipe clean.
I first tried it out on the metal wiper door to see how it worked. Here the softened paint is clearly visible.
I used their steel wool to remove the paint. It worked quickly for me but did take a few applications to get all the paint removed (possibly because I didn't wait long enough for the paint to soften). Then the flusher and grit pad was used to get the results shown.
Next, I tried it on a fiberglass panel I previously started to sand. The manufacturer says it's safe for fiberglass and even has a video demo online where he strips the hood of a big block C3 - I'm hoping that claim isn't hype!
This is after the first application of stripper and paint gloop removal using a plastic razor blade scraper. Again I may have rushed the process and didn't wait ling enough for the paint to fully soften since I was anxious to see how the process worked.
Each subsequent spray of the stripper softened more paint allowing removal. I'll experiment with lengthening the softening times allowed on other body sections to figure out what works best for me.
So far I am pleased with this approach to removing the paint. I plan to strip all the lower fenders and the headlight and taillight panels while the body is still up on the tall dolly so I won't have to bend down as much (remember I'm an OLD fart!). Then I'll continue stripping the rear deck, halo and hood surround with the body back on it's low dolly. Doors, hood, t-tops and headlight lids are removed and will be done separately. How the system will work on the wiper and astro vent grills has yet to be determined.
While i was stripping the right rear fender, I exposed the poor quality repair that a Chevy dealer shop performed after an 18" or so portion of the seam popped open. I don't know how the repair was made or what filler was used, but I do know that if that tech had worked for DUB (may he rest in peace) he would've been fired or at least made to do the repair over!!
Seam repair is UGLY! Hopefully my attempt to rectify the situation will turn out much better!
I also found some gouges in the bonding seams of that fender panel that I don't recall seeing when the paint was still on the car. Can paint be thick enough to cover such defects??
3 gouges in the bonding seam of the taillight panel and one in the fender seam.
I just recently finished stripping my '72 with the same stuff and it seems to work just like the old toxic stuff we used to get everywhere. I agree it is better than other methods although still messy. I found I didn't need as much "flusher" but more of the stripper. Also found brushing on better since the spray bottles stopped working regardless of whether I followed their cleaning steps. I did not use their wiping material but instead used this stuff
I did do some light sanding afterwards just to ensure I got all the residue off. My painter isn't a fan of strippers. Not as easy as the advertising videos show but you can work at your own pace and do a section at a time. Good luck!
Thanks for the recommendation. Yeah, it does sound like it works like the older stripper. Maybe being two-parts gets them around the laws. I've told guys on the C3 forums for many years, to stop spending months searching for the perfect way to remove paint and just use stripper (in a well-ventilated area ...or outside in the shade...even better). So this product might be the ticket. Thanks for sharing.
I used to work at a Corvette shop when I was going to college and we stripped/repainted countless corvettes with stripper. We used different brands, but even the old Zip-Strip did the trick. No way to remove paint is easy, but paint stripper doesn't harm fiberglass. Then we washed them afterwards and used a scotchbrite and little wire brushes, whatever to THOROUGHLY remove ALL stripper residue from all nooks and crannies. You have to be vigilant and get it all out. Make sure you don't skip that step. That's the common rookie mistake ...to leave a bit of old unremoved paint and stripper residue on some corner or in a pit ...which can have long-term negative effects on the new paint or cause a bubble down the road. After you wash the body with warm soapy water and a scotchbrite or brushes to remove all residue (then rinse), let the body sit a couple weeks to dry out. Put in the sun if you can on some days. Fiberglass will 'wick' moisture in, so it needs time to evaporate out. NEVER use any wax and grease remover on the bare body EVER! Ever! That'll wick into the fiberglass and you will have real problems. Keep that W&GR can far away until you are in the later paint stages. You probably know these things from past reading, but they're worth a reminder for other readers.
As far as those nicks in the seams, you can fill with bondo or fiberglass resin. Whatever they used before just came off with the paint. They probably filled with an older red 'glazing putty' which was a lacquer-based product (based on the seeming age of your car's paint). Get a couple foam Dura-Block sanders (incl the LONG one) to help do the bodywork. C3's are so 'swoopy' there's not a straight panel on them. Doing 'good' bodywork is an extra challenge. I went to the hardware store and got a 12" long pc of 2" clear vinyl (stiff) hose. It comes on a coil so it's naturally curved ...works great with a piece of sandpaper for doing around C3 wheel wells.
Thanks for the recommendation. Yeah, it does sound like it works like the older stripper. Maybe being two-parts gets them around the laws. I've told guys on the C3 forums for many years, to stop spending months searching for the perfect way to remove paint and just use stripper (in a well-ventilated area ...or outside in the shade...even better). So this product might be the ticket. Thanks for sharing.
I used to work at a Corvette shop when I was going to college and we stripped/repainted countless corvettes with stripper. We used different brands, but even the old Zip-Strip did the trick. No way to remove paint is easy, but paint stripper doesn't harm fiberglass. Then we washed them afterwards and used a scotchbrite and little wire brushes, whatever to THOROUGHLY remove ALL stripper residue from all nooks and crannies. You have to be vigilant and get it all out. Make sure you don't skip that step. That's the common rookie mistake ...to leave a bit of old unremoved paint and stripper residue on some corner or in a pit ...which can have long-term negative effects on the new paint or cause a bubble down the road. After you wash the body with warm soapy water and a scotchbrite or brushes to remove all residue (then rinse), let the body sit a couple weeks to dry out. Put in the sun if you can on some days. Fiberglass will 'wick' moisture in, so it needs time to evaporate out. NEVER use any wax and grease remover on the bare body EVER! Ever! That'll wick into the fiberglass and you will have real problems. Keep that W&GR can far away until you are in the later paint stages. You probably know these things from past reading, but they're worth a reminder for other readers.
As far as those nicks in the seams, you can fill with bondo or fiberglass resin. Whatever they used before just came off with the paint. They probably filled with an older red 'glazing putty' which was a lacquer-based product (based on the seeming age of your car's paint). Get a couple foam Dura-Block sanders (incl the LONG one) to help do the bodywork. C3's are so 'swoopy' there's not a straight panel on them. Doing 'good' bodywork is an extra challenge. I went to the hardware store and got a 12" long pc of 2" clear vinyl (stiff) hose. It comes on a coil so it's naturally curved ...works great with a piece of sandpaper for doing around C3 wheel wells.
She'll look great with new blue paint on her!!
The stripper is only a single part liquid. I think the flusher is just some sort of wash. Don't think that counts as a 2-part stripper.
Thanks for the info about washing & rinsing well and letting it completely dry out and also that W&GR is a big NO NO. I go have some dura blocks including the solid tubular one. For larger diameter curves like the halo supports to the fenders & rear deck , I bought some "pool noodles" to wrap sandpaper around.
Body lift 11 years ago and it's still not back on the chassis (but restoration of the chassis, engine, driveline, brakes, cooling, fuel and steering have all been done)
Nose dimples have been repaired by removing header bar and rivets then gluing the bar back on
Left rear corner damage
Repair in progress
Fiberglass backing to plug the hole - waiting to finish this glass work until after paint has been stripped from the entire car
Rear bumper side mount hole roughness should be easy to fix
Front valance was cracked through
Valance rough repair using VPA
Right front fender cracks
Cracks repaired with VPA
Old dealer repair of a seam split using some sort of "stitching" on right rear fender
Old seam repair covered with what I think is bondo
. Left lower windshield frame inner & outer corners were badly rusted. Here the outer fender skin is being separated from its underneath bonding support panel.
Fiberglass bonding strip made for remounting the cut fender tip after windshield frame corners were replaced
Tip of fender was cut off to allow access to outer lower corner. After removing inner and outer corners, donor pieces were welded back in. Then the fender repair was done. Here the bonding strip is glued to underside of fender waiting for cut tip piece to be reattached. Cleco pins were used to ensure proper positioning.
Tip bonded back to fender
Cut was dished out and filled with VPA.
I'll try to continue posting body & paint work photos as I go along.
Before any scathing critiques, just remember I'm a novice who's never done any of these types of work until starting this restoration!
Cooper's Strip Club (No, not the T&A type)
). Then I'll continue stripping the rear deck, halo and hood surround with the body back on it's low dolly. Doors, hood, t-tops and headlight lids are removed and will be done separately. How the system will work on the wiper and astro vent grills has yet to be determined.
