C6 Random engine shutoff issue
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C6 Random engine shutoff issue
I recently purchased an 05 C6 ls2 base. I experienced a random shutoff while my car idled for about 2 mins. electronics stayed on , i then drove it home for about 7 mins, experienced two shutoffs , both gave me the "shift to park" message my dash stayed on however my engine cut off. I then scanned my car for codes & got a lean on banks 1 & 2. Mind you no CEL. I then took it my local shop & they recommended changing my MAF sensor. This could possibly be responsible for my shutoffs. We had then changed the MAF. Codes cleared. Nothing came back. After a week or so after driving i experienced another shutoff. dash still lit. mind you i have no experienced any other weird things with the car and the car still scans for ZERO codes. Looking for recommendations or suggestions.
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Well if you took it to your local shop I'm gathering you don't have any electrical diagnostics skills...this issue is VERY difficult to diagnose...watch the video...this is how a diagnostic professional tackles this...99.999% of shops will just replace a ton of parts and you will have an expensive repair bill !!...A LABSCOPE IS 100% NEEDED TO DIAGNOSE THIS !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; Yesterday at 10:49 AM.
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[QUOTE=C5 Diag;1609654336]Well if you took it to your local shop I'm gathering you don't have any electrical diagnostics skills...this issue is VERY difficult to diagnose...watch the video...this is how a diagnostic professional tackles this...99.999% of shops will just replace a ton of parts and you will have an expensive repair bill !!...A LABSCOPE IS 100% NEEDED TO DIAGNOSE THIS !!
[/QUOTE
Appreciate you dropping this video. However i do not own a Labscope unfortunately. Any other recommendations?
Appreciate you dropping this video. However i do not own a Labscope unfortunately. Any other recommendations?
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
[QUOTE=C6Esus;1609654372]
Then take the car to a shop that has one and knows how to use it...ask an auto electric shop first...an indie shop or dealership will just replace parts.
Well if you took it to your local shop I'm gathering you don't have any electrical diagnostics skills...this issue is VERY difficult to diagnose...watch the video...this is how a diagnostic professional tackles this...99.999% of shops will just replace a ton of parts and you will have an expensive repair bill !!...A LABSCOPE IS 100% NEEDED TO DIAGNOSE THIS !!
https://youtu.be/pCn0ji6fuW8?si=o5qVZ6sneFzIRqQL[/QUOTE
Appreciate you dropping this video. However i do not own a Labscope unfortunately. Any other recommendations?
https://youtu.be/pCn0ji6fuW8?si=o5qVZ6sneFzIRqQL[/QUOTE
Appreciate you dropping this video. However i do not own a Labscope unfortunately. Any other recommendations?
Then take the car to a shop that has one and knows how to use it...ask an auto electric shop first...an indie shop or dealership will just replace parts.
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[QUOTE=C5 Diag;1609654379]
Ok, and you would say with confidence this is an electrical issue and NOT a mechanical one?
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[QUOTE=C5 Diag;1609654417]obviously, like you said, I don't have good diagnosing skills lol, however do you think it can be something simple like a loose or corroded wire or as big as a ECM?
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Yes it can be...if you have your scan tool what does your MAP sensor read ignition ON engine OFF...at sea level should read about 14.7psi/29.9 inches of Mercury or 101 kPa (kilo pascals) on your scanner...also MAF should read no less than 6 grams/second at hot idle/no loads !!..this is why you must use a shop that won't GUESS !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; Yesterday at 12:02 PM.
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Yes it can be...if you have your scan tool what does your MAP sensor read ignition ON engine OFF...at sea level should read about 14.7psi/29.9 inches of Mercury or 101 kPa (kilo pascals) on your scanner...also MAF should read no less than 6 grams/second at hot idle/no loads !!..this is why you must use a shop that won't GUESS !!
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Even a cheap code reader should be able to check this...I don't know what else to tell you..a YT video won't help as there are MANY causes for this !!...yes, we can tell you what parts MAY fix this but that will be very expensive...plus with a bad NEW part you may "build in" another issue.
Last edited by C5 Diag; Yesterday at 12:40 PM.
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Even a cheap code reader should be able to check this...I don't know what else to tell you..a YT video won't help as there are MANY causes for this !!...yes, we can tell you what parts MAY fix this but that will be very expensive...plus with a bad NEW part you may "build in" another issue.
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I can't tell you that without having the car in front of me...if you think it's a vacuum leak what are your long and short term fuel trims at hot idle ??...if elevated over 10% raise the RPM to 3000 RPM...if the fuel trims DECREASE you have a vacuum leak...if you think it's after the MAF try spraying Brake Kleen around the connections after the MAF...if fuel trims go quickly negative you found the leak...like I said we can't give you a firm diagnosis....did you look at your MAF data PID ??
Last edited by C5 Diag; Today at 10:33 AM.
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I can't tell you that without having the car in front of me...if you think it's a vacuum leak what are your long and short term fuel trims at hot idle ??...if elevated over 10% raise the RPM to 3000 RPM...if the fuel trims DECREASE you have a vacuum leak...if you think it's after the MAF try spraying Brake Kleen around the connections after the MAF...if fuel trims go quickly negative you found the leak...like I said we can't give you a firm diagnosis....did you look at your MAF data PID ??
Okay, I will look into all of this you're telling me. Something i found last night was that my negative battery terminal was a bit loose. Not completely but definitely not firm either. I wonder if this could be the issue? I changed the terminal and drove it around, was fine..however like i said it is a intermittent issue.