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P0336 After Car is Warm

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Old Yesterday | 01:05 PM
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Default P0336 After Car is Warm

Hello all, first time making a thread here. I'm 18 years old, and this the first issue ive encountered with the car, so im looking for some help. I relocated battery to rear cubby about 5 days ago. all was well until about 2 days later i had a 30 minute drive somewhere, turn the car off for about 3 minutes, go to start it again, it has a very hard time starting for about 5 seconds. it did start, however rpm gauge did not move at all and i had CEL that came up as P0336. swapped the sensor out for a brand new GM one, car was fine for the rest of the day. I drove it for about an hour, stopped to get gas, and the car turned back on just fine. The next day i had another 30 minute drive, car was off for about 10 minutes, go to start it, and the same code came back. this time the RPM gauge worked, however i still had the P0336 code. drove it back home, cleared the code, let it sit for about 7 hours and the car started up just fine, and didnt have a code.

In my eyes it has to be a heat issue, and its most likely something caused by the relocating battery. it only happens after the car is warmed up. ive read here that people say its starter getting hot, maybe it is, but ive owned the car for over a year now and the starter has never given me issues (now that ive typed that, maybe its a loose connection on the positive terminal to starter?). would like some more opinions by people that know alot more than me, thanks.
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Old Yesterday | 01:47 PM
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On the C6 you will need a scan tool to observe RPM and not by the RPM gauge will will work...if you bought this "new" sensor off Amazon or EBay it's most likely counterfeit !!...I use a labscope to verify that the 5 volt signal is indeed 5 volts and that it gets pulled to ground since it is a Hall Effect sensor...the blue waveform is for the crank sensor.





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Old Yesterday | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
On the C6 you will need a scan tool to observe RPM and not by the RPM gauge will will work...if you bought this "new" sensor off Amazon or EBay it's most likely counterfeit !!...I use a labscope to verify that the 5 volt signal is indeed 5 volts and that it gets pulled to ground since it is a Hall Effect sensor...the blue waveform is for the crank sensor.



hello! it was a genuine part from gm. dad owns a shop so i get all my stuff through him. i'll check if the sensor is bad but i doubt it.
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Old Yesterday | 02:12 PM
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If your Dad owns a shop why isn't he diagnosing it ????
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Old Yesterday | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
If your Dad owns a shop why isn't he diagnosing it ????
hes back up and won't be able to take a look until next week. also want to do something on my own for once he kinda does it all.
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Old Yesterday | 03:25 PM
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Unless you know how to electrically check the CKP circuit and if his shop uses a labscope and if you know how to use it to check.
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