After removing and painting the cluster and everything put back in I have a no start. Turns and cranks but no fire. What wire or what can I check to troubleshoot?

 

What else did you disconnect to remove the cluster?

 

Absolutely nothing... I do have Vintage Air installed and MSD Atomic 1 Fuel Injection. But only disconnected cluster, painted, had speedo/tach rebuilt and connected back...

 

I would start at the '+' terminal of the coil. Do you have ~ 8 volts or so in the on position and there should be ~ 12 volts when cranking. If both of those circuits are down then that means the problem is on the other side of the coil (points, condenser, or coil itself). I'm surprised that you at least didn't have ignition while cranking. An inline ignition tester to substitute for the coil wire can eliminate a lot of things quickly.

 

Since we don't know for sure if it's fuel or voltage issue, I'd first disconnect the two pink wires on the coil positive (may be black with pink stripe on 64). You should have 12v on the one that goes down to the starter solenoid when you rotate the ignition to "start". You should have 12v on the other one that goes to the ballast resistor when in "run" position. You would only get 8v on that wire if the engine was running, but since it won't start to have the points supply the ground to spark the coil, no current will pass through the ballast and no voltage will be dropped, so it will read 12v when you move the key to "run". If both those voltages are there, you don't have a problem with the ignition switch supply voltage. I would then take a close look at the black wire from the negative on the coil to the distributor points plate. It would not be related to removing the cluster, but may be coincidental. There aren't any other wires in the cluster that would interrupt the power to the coil besides those two.
You may also have a coincidental issue with the fuel injection or you could even have no gas in the tank. You'll have to determine whether it's spark of fuel first and then troubleshoot in that direction. Measure those two voltages I mentioned first to eliminate a loose of miswired ignition switch since you were in that area working before the problem occurred.

 

The ONLY thing I did in the engine compartment was unhook the negative battery post. Never was in the engine compartment other than that. Everything else was done in the vehicle. I am getting 12V to the battery wire at ignition, when in the on position the purple and brown wires go hot. Did not check the other spade yet.

 

read the voltage at the pink wires on the positive on the coil as I asked and tell me what voltage you get on those two wires with them both disconnected with the key in run and in start. If it wasn't important, I wouldn't have asked you to do it.