When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have my 62 engine back together after a major rebuild along with the FI unit, distributor and so on. I’ve plumbed in an O2 sensor in the ex pipe and have a digital meter hooked up. Have had the engine running and all sounds ok. Idle speed is off. The rich and cruise setting is unknown. If I get the point dwell perfect and the initial timing perfect, what are the suggestions for the other final adjustments, AF/R etc.
I can help you get the FI unit dialed in if it's been recently rebuilt by a competent rebuilder with high quality parts.
Is the FI presently working well enough that your '62 is drive-able? That's important. Adjusting the Econo Stop and the Power Stop screws has to be done based on A/F readings taken during actual driving conditions.
Oh, and posting pictures of your car and the FI engine is mandatory.
I tryed to send you a vid of it running but the forum declined it. If I’m on the fast idle cam it starts and runs. Take it off and it will not stay running. Tryed the idle screw and idle mix to no avail. During o/h I adjusted the throttle plate to spec. When throttle up, seems lean, odd backfire happens to confirm that. Timing is 10 BTDC. Dwell is 34 degrees. My suspect parts at OH was the ratio lever, it had been repaired. The fuel control lever had slight wear where the ratio lever rolled on it. The lock nuts for those adjustments were as you see them, it seemed to work ok at the time, even idled.
So what you are saying is that the car is not yet driveable. Let's work on that. Refer to the following picture and note how I define the lengths of the two stop screws:
Assuming the FI has "Q" nozzles, I want you to preset the Economy screw to a length of 0.350" and the Power screw to a length of 0.254". Lock down the jam nuts. (If the unit has other than "Q" nozzles, tell me what they are and I'll calculate different presets.)
Next, adjust the length of the Enrichment Diaphragm rod such that the Ratio Lever will just begin to touch the Economy Stop screw when 9" of vacuum is applied to the diaphragm.
Start the engine and evaluate how well it idles after the Fast Idle cam swings out of the way. Tweak the Idle Fuel and Idle Air screws, if needed.
If the engine still won't idle, then something was done incorrectly when the unit was rebuilt. I'll need extensive details about what was done or not done to advise you. You've already hinted that the Axle/Link is worn but was not replaced.
Jim:
After reading this post I was wondering about tuning for fuel economy on the mechanical fuel injection units. What sort of AFR can you maintain on the units at a steady 65-70 MPH and can you significantly improve the fuel mileage?
Jim:
After reading this post I was wondering about tuning for fuel economy on the mechanical fuel injection units. What sort of AFR can you maintain on the units at a steady 65-70 MPH and can you significantly improve the fuel mileage?
The factory target AFR was 15.5:1, easy to achieve when nozzle flow rates were hand matched to be within +/-2.5% of each other. Allowing for instrumentation error, my target AFR is 15.3:1. I threaten my customers with physical harm if they tweak the adjustment screws to run any more lean than that.
Fuel injection adjusting with AF/R meter
