Removing siezed bolts by freezing them
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Quebec, Canada
Removing siezed bolts by freezing them
Does anyone have experience removing seized nuts and bolts by freezing them with an aerosol can of freezing spray? Which one do you recommend?
I need to remove one in a place where I really can't use heat. Many thanks.
I need to remove one in a place where I really can't use heat. Many thanks.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 273
Likes: 94
From: Pachuta, MS
I've used CRC Freeze Off to loosen stubborn fasteners on electrical components but about a 3/8"-16 nut is as big as I've done. It may work for you. Have you thought about using an induction heater if flame is an issue?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Quebec, Canada
Thank-you for the replies. I have an induction heater but my fastener is in a difficult location. It's difficult to get the heater off fast enough to get a wrench on it before it cools.
I've looked at the CRC product but the user feed-back on Amazon says that it doesn't freeze but that it just seems to be a penetrating oil spray. Did you find that it actually froze the fasteners?
I've looked at the CRC product but the user feed-back on Amazon says that it doesn't freeze but that it just seems to be a penetrating oil spray. Did you find that it actually froze the fasteners?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 273
Likes: 94
From: Pachuta, MS
The stuff is intended to be a penetrating oil and the freezing is used to contract the parts and tries to break the bonds so that the penetrant can work. The directions tell you a few applications may be needed and to wait between cycles to give the penetrant a chance. If you've got a really stuck part, this stuff is probably a long shot but that seems to be the situation you're in. If you have access to liquid nitrogen then you could probably make the bolts so brittle that the bolts would snap off. At one time our Physics department could purchase the stuff cheaper than distilled water but those times are gone.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 273
Likes: 94
From: Pachuta, MS
It gets it cold enough to form frost (but that ain't hard where I live) but the main function of the cooling is to create just a little extra space for the penetrant to do its work. They tell you to wait for the penetrant to work so the cooling is just a little helper in the delivery. The contraction might brEAK RUST BONDS BUT i'M skeptical. Again, this ain't liquid N2. You might do as well by shooting R-134a at it but that would be bad for the environment so that's on you. You're probably just whistlin' Dixie but if you're in a situation where you've got nothing to lose ...
Perhaps if you'd tell us what you are trying to do, chances are someone has already fought this fight.
Perhaps if you'd tell us what you are trying to do, chances are someone has already fought this fight.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Quebec, Canada
Thank-you again.
I didn't know about the acetone/ATF option. It makes sense as acetone evaporates quickly and has a very strong cooling action. I'll keep this one in my back pocket as another option.
What I need to do is not Corvette related but, as do a number of members, I knew that this is the best place to go for good information. I have to remove the ABS control unit on my 2002 Cavalier. I've loosened all four flare nuts on the lines going to the wheels but one of them is seized on the brake line. This is a common problem with the flare nuts if you don't put a smidgen of grease on the line before sliding the nut to the end. I don't want to use a torch so close to the control unit and I can't just quickly lift the inductive coil off the nut, as it's wrapped around the pipe. This may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought I'd try the cold treatment first.
If anyone has other suggestions, I'd be very happy to see them. Whatever the outcome, I'll report on what worked, or didn't work.
I didn't know about the acetone/ATF option. It makes sense as acetone evaporates quickly and has a very strong cooling action. I'll keep this one in my back pocket as another option.
What I need to do is not Corvette related but, as do a number of members, I knew that this is the best place to go for good information. I have to remove the ABS control unit on my 2002 Cavalier. I've loosened all four flare nuts on the lines going to the wheels but one of them is seized on the brake line. This is a common problem with the flare nuts if you don't put a smidgen of grease on the line before sliding the nut to the end. I don't want to use a torch so close to the control unit and I can't just quickly lift the inductive coil off the nut, as it's wrapped around the pipe. This may be what I have to do eventually, but I thought I'd try the cold treatment first.
If anyone has other suggestions, I'd be very happy to see them. Whatever the outcome, I'll report on what worked, or didn't work.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 273
Likes: 94
From: Pachuta, MS
Honestly, I've never seen a huge difference in what one penetrant will do vs another as long as you allow time to do its magic. Having said that the best answer I have for you (after soaking this thing and waiting at least overnight and applying more) is to go out and find a crowsfoot that will fit the flare nut. You want the kind that is almost like a boxend wrench with a slot in it rather than the kind that's more like an end wrench. You can then use a flex handle or ratchet (and possibly an extension) to apply much more torque than you ever could with a flare wrench without rounding off the nut. The only other suggestion is to try a heat gun but that too is a long shot but blasting it with the heat gun and then trying the Freeze Off might buy you something but my money is on the crowsfoot.
Last edited by acstephenson; May 28, 2026 at 11:05 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Various places in Southern California.
I've had good luck spraying the bolt/nut with a penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster) while using the induction heater. That seems to help draw the penetrant in.
Don't forget that alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise can help break the fastener loose. And if you can get a wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer, the impacts will help break the bond as well.
Don't forget that alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise can help break the fastener loose. And if you can get a wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer, the impacts will help break the bond as well.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Quebec, Canada
Thank-you again.
Just to clarify, I've loosened the nut in the controller. It's seized on the brake line. I can turn the nut back and forth but it twists the brake line with it. I have to go very carefully as I don't want to rip the brake line.
Just to clarify, I've loosened the nut in the controller. It's seized on the brake line. I can turn the nut back and forth but it twists the brake line with it. I have to go very carefully as I don't want to rip the brake line.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 1,059
From: Florida
I've had good luck spraying the bolt/nut with a penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster) while using the induction heater. That seems to help draw the penetrant in.
Don't forget that alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise can help break the fastener loose. And if you can get a wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer, the impacts will help break the bond as well.
Don't forget that alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise can help break the fastener loose. And if you can get a wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer, the impacts will help break the bond as well.
Last edited by Limp; May 29, 2026 at 09:40 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 545
Likes: 264
From: Quebec, Canada
Thank-you all for your suggestions. I'm going to try the hot/cold treatment. I have to wait until I receive the freeze aerosol. I'll let you know how things turn out.
I much appreciate your help and friendship.
I much appreciate your help and friendship.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 195
Likes: 31
From: Columbia, SC
Standard Oil in Whiting IN in the 60's used Kroil for maintenance issues.
One of our customers gave me a can and I still use Kroil today.
If you have the time to allow Kroil to work I would wrap it with a strip of cotton cloth,
soak with Kroil, cover with Saran wrap, and secure with wire tie.
Start testing it next day by tightening and loosening and have patience.
Must admit on my Vette's rear shock nuts it took a couple days but better than shearing off.
At 82 I don't rush anything.
One of our customers gave me a can and I still use Kroil today.
If you have the time to allow Kroil to work I would wrap it with a strip of cotton cloth,
soak with Kroil, cover with Saran wrap, and secure with wire tie.
Start testing it next day by tightening and loosening and have patience.
Must admit on my Vette's rear shock nuts it took a couple days but better than shearing off.
At 82 I don't rush anything.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,682
Likes: 3,678
From: Central Arkansas
I second that Kroil does seem to work better than the others for a penetrating stuck bolts. The transom mount on my boat trolling motor had been left mounted in the weather for a number of years and the securing bolts seemed to be so corroded that I figured I would have to hacksaw them off. As a last resort I sprayed them with Kroil and let it set awhile, put a wrench on them and wiggled them back an forth and surprisingly the loosened up and started backing out.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 273
Likes: 94
From: Pachuta, MS
After this much soak time, I seriously doubt that any magic bullet penetrants are going to work. If you can get vise grips to hold the line while you try turning the nut with a flare wrench, you might break it free but all of this may be unnecessary. If the ABS controller is like most of them of that era, the electronics is separate from the mechanical portion and almost always, it's the electronics that fail and it can usually be replaced without disturbing the brake lines. Plan B would be to cut the line and insert a double flared union at the cut.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,128
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From: Presque Isle WI
2025 C2 of the Year ('63 and '67) Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I don't see where anyone has suggested heat, and then applying wax or a crayon to the offending area. The heat draws the wax in, and thus it lubricates the surface area and BAM! It comes apart.
Same principle as sweating a pipe joint. My fastner extraction activities have gone down considerably since learning this tactic. I'm a huge fan of the inductive heaters
Same principle as sweating a pipe joint. My fastner extraction activities have gone down considerably since learning this tactic. I'm a huge fan of the inductive heaters