I own a 2002 ZO6 with 15,500 miles. The car sits in a garage on a battery tender most of the year and gets driven about a 1,000 miles a year.

Over the last couple of months I have started it to get welcomed by the series of notices about Service ABS, active handling, etc. After driving and starting it a few times, it goes away. I took it to my local Chevy dealer and left it for a couple of days when this was happening. Of course it straightened up when they started it and stayed that way while they had it.

I know the process that has been written about so many times but does anyone have a suggestion as to how to quickly get to the cure as rapidly as possible?

 

Have you used the DIC to pull any codes that may be present while this is happening?

 

To get to a cure as rapidly as possible find a diagnostician (not a "mechanic" or dealership) in your area that can determine what is wrong with your car and can diagnose it accurately and not just replace parts.

 

Why throw money at a problem that can't be duplicated? Using the DIC at home would be a better place to start considering he can duplicate the problem

 

First attempt I would do is disconnect the battery to reset car electronics - do a load check on it too (Amazon gauge) and replace if poor response.

 

The OP is taking his car to a dealer so we can assume he is not mechanically inclined...let a diagnostician read the DTC's and fix this.

 

If the dealership can't duplicate the problem what makes you think another shop can? Like a said use the DIC to get the codes while it's happening.
To the OP, there are videos on how to retrieve the codes if you have never done it

 

Well what the dealership will do is retrieve the code and replace whatever part is mentioned in the DTC...usual dealership fix !!

 

Where are you going with this? The OP already said they couldn't duplicate the problem

 

The problem will happen again shortly. I am going to make an effort to get the codes when that happens.

 

Mine is a 2002 coupe with 24,000 miles on it. I was having very similar issues where I'd start it and get all kinds of ABS and active handling messages. Wouldn't do it all the time - just enough to bug me. Those with faulty ignition switches get very similar messages and the problem gets diagnosed as a low voltage issue caused by excessive voltage drop across some ignition switch contacts. I believe there is a sticky on the ignition switch and you'll see the error codes that many experience. Your codes may be similar. On the chance that I might have a low voltage battery issue with the red top I had in it; I replaced the battery. No change. More than once I was ready to replace the switch but was not totally convinced that the voltage drops I measured were enough to cause the issue. That Fall I put it into storage and figured I'd deal with it in the Spring. Over the winter as I stopped by to check the car (heated storage) I'd notice the error light flashing on the battery tender. Long story short, I took the battery back to NAPA where I'd bought it and the guy replaced it no questions asked. Bingo - the new battery cured the problem. These cars are sensitive to low voltage and (my opinion) Optima battery quality is not what it used to be. In my mind I had two bad Optima's. Might be worth swapping batteries - it's simple and could be the source of your problem.

 

First go in and see if you any ebcm codes. They will. E historic with an H even if they are gone.

I just had this issue. At first I showed a C1214 and then a C1243. Then it finally set and would not clear after a while. I checked the grounds by the drivers headlamp and under the master cylinder on the frame. They were clean like new.

Then I checked the 3 fuses for the stability system in the under hood Numbers 5, 53 and 54 if I have by memory. They were good. This led to the ECBM box having bad solder joints. 33k miles.

I removed it and sent it to ABS Fixers. I sent it Sunday got it back Friday no light no messages, no code.

Now make sure to get the codes. Make sure your battery is fully charged.

The C1214 was bad ECBM that was the solder issue it then sets a C1243 code because the pump did not get power. Fix the box it fixes the pump most cases. If the pump is stuck or out it blows fuses.

It can be other things like the ignition above but whst I had is the most common.

 

As for Optima batteries, I sell them at work. The batteries are just the same Todsy as years ago. To keep a tender on it on long storage. If the voltage drops below 10.5 volts you need an AGM charger. A normal charger it tender often will not charge a low AGM.

Most claimed failed Optima’s are saved by a proper charger.

Yes there is a small failure rate but no worse than any other. We sell Interstate, Delco and others too.

I personally have never lost an Optima less than 12 years.

 

I have one old Optima that's well over 10 years old that still stays strong. My other 3 have been a roll of the dice. I do use NOCO battery tenders and use the AGM setting. While I'm not in the battery business, I do find Optima batteries to be controversial. All a person has to do is google "optima red top batteries failure rate" or just peruse this site for Optima threads. It's a love hate relationship.

 

Well most customer never read up on how to use them or charge them. When you charge it and give it back ggey finally get it and a proper charger.

Not saying they never go bad as most batteries get a bad percentage. But much of the controversy is the failure of the customer in many of the cases. They just don’t know if understand proper use or maintenance. If they gave a power drain on a limited use car they have issues.

Many also should use a deep cycle.

 

My battery is about 6 mo. old. It is hooked to a charger that the car has been attached to for over 10 years without a problem.

 

Then look for codes or historic codes.