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I searched thru the forum but nothing came up ....So I am getting ready to remove my engine and automatic transmission from my '75 but have come across some posts online where people say you have to remove the torque converter bolts to the flywheel when you remove or install the engine and transmission together ?
Any insight on this as it seems weird to me... I was planning on removing them as one piece without doing anything else than removing the driveshaft.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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I did it all the time with my 4 speed even before i made the crossmember removable..
Helpful tips
Pull the hood,
Remove the radiator
Remove enough bolts to tip the radiator support towards the lights so you dont scrape across it
Put the engine to top dead center #1 and then remove the distributor....only necessary if you arent doing a total tear down
If you are using the typical cherry picker, remove the front side wheel you have the picker on and have enough room to swing it or pull the picker out. Use 2 jack stands incase the cherry picker knocks one over
Use a maifold engine block puller that bolts in place of the carb,
Use an engine pulling angling device to tilt the motor..
If you have the space, make or buy/rent a used gantry crane....i built one into my garage framing...its the best tool i own for engine removal. We have a couple from harborfreight.com at work
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Yesterday at 11:02 AM.
If the car has an auto trans, it should also have a bolted-in, removable crossmember that your auto trans' tail-shaft housing mounts with two bolts.
trans has lotsa atf in it as well as in TC unless you pull it with driveshaft stuck in tail-shaft, lotsa atf will dump.
IF you pull motor and trans together, no you Do Not need to remove TC to Flexplate bolts.
I thought of using an engine leveler when I put my BP350 in but a ratchet strap to the front with an eye bolt worked perfectly for me. I'm out of town so I can't show a photo of what I did.
I looked through my Blueprint 350 install thread and found this photo. This is how I installed my engine with a ratchet strap to tilt it, but I just installed the engine and did not have the heavy automatic transmission attached. I "assume" that the balance would be almost impossible to get right with an automatic transmission hanging off the back of the engine. I've pulled a few with a 4 speed hanging on the back that that was not too bad. The automatic will weigh at least twice what a 4 speed would weigh so keep that in mind.
Those exhaust manifolds look so good, thanks @Fly skids up!
JT
I pulled both a 350 with Muncie and a 350 with TH400 attached, from the front of a 69 & 72. All depends on the lifting method. I have a large engine hoist that allows me to go from the front vs the side. A tilter is a must as is an helper.
I pulled from my 71 a 350/400 turbo combo.
Had a leveler. Went in from the side with my cherry picker. Front of the car on jack stands. Right wheel/tire off. Rad and support out.
It was a little scary but went well.
Reinstalled a LS1/4L60E in reverse manner. Zero issues.
Something I didn't see above is to separate the yoke from the driveshaft and leave the yoke in the transmission. If you remove the yoke, trans fluid will come out and make a mess when you tilt the engine/trans upward to remove it.
Yes, the 350 and TH400 weigh a lot, but I did this with a 454 and TH400 with no problems. Just make sure your hoist is at least rated for 1000 lbs, 2000 is best for stoutness and stability.
Last edited by barkingrats; Yesterday at 11:21 PM.
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Removing engine and transmission as one...
