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Today was my grandkids birthday party (he's gonna be 12). We were at another kids party with my wife's car earlier in the day and everyone wanted to see the new 2026 Vette. So, inbetween parties, I drove her car home, fed and watered the dog, took her for a walk and went to take may Vette back to my grandkids party. Used the remote to open the frunk and put a few things in, no problem. Car's in the garage and it was in the 90's in our garage. Go to start the car and it goes click, nothing. Oops. First reaction is to open the door but all the electronics are out. Door won't open, car won't start. No buttons work. In my car in my garage and it's getting suffocating. I didn't think of onstar for some reason but I did have my phone. So, I ask Grok wtf do i do. Saleman never went over the emergency door release but it was easy enough to find. Panic over. I did get the trickle charger with the car because it has the Z51 package and summer tires. So, it is now charging. According to Grok, I should still take it in and have a "parasitic drain diagnosis" performed. I have no idea what would cause the battery to drain. Any ideas and do you agree with Grok about taking it in?
Today was my grandkids birthday party (he's gonna be 12). We were at another kids party with my wife's car earlier in the day and everyone wanted to see the new 2026 Vette. So, inbetween parties, I drove her car home, fed and watered the dog, took her for a walk and went to take may Vette back to my grandkids party. Used the remote to open the frunk and put a few things in, no problem. Car's in the garage and it was in the 90's in our garage. Go to start the car and it goes click, nothing. Oops. First reaction is to open the door but all the electronics are out. Door won't open, car won't start. No buttons work. In my car in my garage and it's getting suffocating. I didn't think of onstar for some reason but I did have my phone. So, I ask Grok wtf do i do. Saleman never went over the emergency door release but it was easy enough to find. Panic over. I did get the trickle charger with the car because it has the Z51 package and summer tires. So, it is now charging. According to Grok, I should still take it in and have a "parasitic drain diagnosis" performed. I have no idea what would cause the battery to drain. Any ideas and do you agree with Grok about taking it in?
If this happened to me I would charge the battery. If it started after that, I would indeed take it to my dealer. I would expect first a battery test. If the battery test showed that battery is good, then yes, I would anticipate that the dealer would check the charging system and possible parasitic draw. If it did not start after charging, I would call the dealer for advice - but one way or the other I would still first suspect a bad battery. Yours is under warranty so you will (or I would anyway) want the dealer involved.
Mine is always attached to the battery maintainer when its parked in the garage.
@brianod ... How long was the car sitting .. when was the last time it was started? Are there any aftermarket devices installed (like a radar detector)?
Last edited by Stoopalini; Jun 14, 2026 at 08:00 AM.
I drove it the day before. Nothing connected. Tried the trickle charger over night and nothing. Trickle charger had a red error light, I reset it but not hopeful.
I drove it the day before. Nothing connected. Tried the trickle charger over night and nothing. Trickle charger had a red error light, I reset it but not hopeful.
sounds like either a bad battery, or a bad connection to the battery.
the battery is easy to access under the close out panels within the frunk space.
no tools needed. The side panels come off 1st, then the larger panel against the windshield. They just pull/pop off.
Last edited by Stoopalini; Jun 14, 2026 at 10:53 AM.
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Originally Posted by brianod
I drove it the day before. Nothing connected. Tried the trickle charger over night and nothing. Trickle charger had a red error light, I reset it but not hopeful.
You likely have a dead cell in your battery. Had a similar issue on a previous 24 with a defective factory battery.
It's also possible that an update kicked off, and discharged the battery. After some amount of time, sulfation will short out the batt. That might be the charging error light you got.
I drove it the day before. Nothing connected. Tried the trickle charger over night and nothing. Trickle charger had a red error light, I reset it but not hopeful.
More clearer...is it driven often or is it a garage queen , is it under warranty ? call the dealer
It's also possible that an update kicked off, and discharged the battery. After some amount of time, sulfation will short out the batt. That might be the charging error light you got.
Don't updates require permission before they will attempt to install? Every update I ever got require my permission before it would install. There is a menu item to enable automatic downloads but not to install. At least, that is is how my 2021 works.
Update: Turned out that it was a bad cable connection. AAA was attaching jumper cables and all the lights came on and car seemed normal and no jump was needed. Took it in to the dealer and they tightened the connections and ran some diagnostics and said I was good to go. Only problem is that I now have the crash detection warning light on. Guess I'll have to take it back and have them reset it.
Update: Turned out that it was a bad cable connection. AAA was attaching jumper cables and all the lights came on and car seemed normal and no jump was needed. Took it in to the dealer and they tightened the connections and ran some diagnostics and said I was good to go. Only problem is that I now have the crash detection warning light on. Guess I'll have to take it back and have them reset it.
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For many years and many cars now, I have always had this weird habit of starting the car before shutting the drivers door. I'm glad you solved the problem.
Update: Turned out that it was a bad cable connection. AAA was attaching jumper cables and all the lights came on and car seemed normal and no jump was needed. Took it in to the dealer and they tightened the connections and ran some diagnostics and said I was good to go. Only problem is that I now have the crash detection warning light on. Guess I'll have to take it back and have them reset it.
Isnt crash detection a selectable feature? I have a ‘25, so just wondering if you turned it off.
Isnt crash detection a selectable feature? I have a ‘25, so just wondering if you turned it off.
Yes, you can turn it off. Unfortunately for me, the message says front crash detection unavailable and I have a yellow warning light. When I go through the menu, it is set to alert and brake. I turned it off and on to no avail.
Saleman never went over the emergency door release but it was easy enough to find.
Whenever I have a passenger in my Vette, I always inform them about the emergency door release. In case of a crash or other problem, I want my passenger safe.
Good idea. For the life of me, I can't figure out the advantage of an electronic door opener. If There was an advantage, fine. But as far as I can tell, there's no reason to have an electronic door opener over a mechanical one.
Good idea. For the life of me, I can't figure out the advantage of an electronic door opener. If There was an advantage, fine. But as far as I can tell, there's no reason to have an electronic door opener over a mechanical one.
i thought it was pretty obvious why they did it?
the actual latching mechanism is in the body of the vehicle, in the door jamb … not on the door itself. So a mechanical handle on the door would need a cable which would have to go through the hinge side of the door, into the body, then wrap around to where the latch mechanism is.
the emergency release doesn’t have this problem since it’s not mounted on the door.
You couldn’t have remote door locks without them being electronic. I believe the government ordered a secondary manual method for several reasons. One being if the vehicle becomes submerged and the doors short out, you can still get out hopefully.
You couldn’t have remote door locks without them being electronic. I believe the government ordered a secondary manual method for several reasons. One being if the vehicle becomes submerged and the doors short out, you can still get out hopefully.
This is true with respect to the door lock. But not the door latches. I have two cars both with remote lock unlock feature. Neither has an electrically actuated door latch. And the mechanical door latching is in the door. It was a separate design choice to make the latches electrically actuated - and yet another design choice to put the latching mechanism in the body instead of the door. I agree though that if you have electrically actuated door latches, you need a mechanical back up. Putting the electrical door latch in the body means the back up mechanical latch actuation can also be in the body and not the door.
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