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[C2] Carpet and voltage question

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Old Jun 14, 2026 | 04:29 PM
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Default Carpet and voltage question

Had a couple of questions on a project I’m about to get started on.

I just bought all new carpet from Al Kotch for my 65. Before I get started are there any tips or videos that would help it go smoothly?

also, I noticed today when I was checking the timing that it’s showing my voltage as 16 when it was idling, I’m assuming 16 volts is not normal for a 65 327?

thanks
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Old Jun 14, 2026 | 04:40 PM
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16vdc at the battery is not normal. This indicates a voltage regulation problem. If you have the original voltage regulator, it could be stuck points passing on the full voltage of the alternator. To help out, what is the alternator, and is it an original point type regulator. You could boil the battery if you drive it as-is.
No tips on the carpet.
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Old Jun 14, 2026 | 04:58 PM
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Do you have the carpet you took out? Of that fit we'll use that as a template.
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Old Jun 14, 2026 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 3kiddos789
... it’s showing my voltage as 16 when it was idling, I’m assuming 16 volts is not normal for a 65 327? ...
16 to 18 volts is what an alternator can produce when forced to its full output by the regulator. It can go higher if the engine is at high revs. It indicates a working alternator with a likely bad regulator. It's not good for bulbs and the radio, not to mention the battery which will be quite unhappy at 18 volts. The design system voltage is 14.2 volts.

Dan
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Old Jun 14, 2026 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 3kiddos789
I just bought all new carpet from Al Kotch for my 65. Before I get started are there any tips or videos that would help it go smoothly?
thanks
Lay the carpet out in the sun for an hour or so to soften it up, then lay each side in, one at a time, move it around until it conforms to the shape of the floor and trim small amounts at a time.
With ACC I’ve never had to trim the front, it just fits snug up against the heater box etc.
I put small slits in the console tabs and leave about 1/2 -1 inch overlapping.
A spike from the underside works to locate the seat bolt holes and a soldering iron works well for making the holes from the top, if you’re putting the seats over the carpet.
Originally the whole seat track was cut out, so up to you.
Take your time with the headlight dip switch hole and reuse the spacer under the gas pedal.
Be careful cutting the flap that goes under the scuff plates and around and under the kick panel.
Do NOT use a drill to drive in screws, or you can catch a thread and leave a bare line in the carpet.
Just take your time and only trim when you’re sure.
The back half is easier in that you don’t really need to trim much, it mostly just glues down, but try and remove as much as the old glue and insulation as possible, you need a good clean surface for the new adhesive to adhere to.
Good luck

Last edited by anyChevy; Jun 15, 2026 at 03:15 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2026 | 07:40 AM
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As anyChevy said "Do NOT use a drill to drive in screws, or you can catch a thread and leave a bare line in the carpet."
You can locate the hole with a needle, pin, or punch, then take a soldering iron and burn the hole to prevent the carpet yarn from wrapping around the screw / drill bit when installing.

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Old Yesterday | 04:11 PM
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Here is an article I wrote that should help you diagnose your over charging. PM me if you have any questions.
Joe
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Old Today | 10:49 AM
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I wanted to add some additional information, although I have no idea if it has to do with the charging showing 16 volts.

Here is the rundown:

When I hook up my timing light it's showing 16V's at the battery cables when running. I went to verify that with a multi meter this morning and it would not start at all. I drove it Sunday for about an hour and parked it, when I did everything worked well.

When I went to turn the key this morning the radio comes on when ignition is turned to accessory. When I got one more click to start I get nothing, like it's totally dead. When I have the key all the way in the start position my power goes out, radio second hand quits ticking, under dash lights turn off. Then when I go back to off the second hand on the clock will run backwards for about 5 seconds and then go back to clockwise. I put a multi meter on the batter this morning and it showed 12.94 volts.

Any ideas?
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Old Today | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 3kiddos789
I wanted to add some additional information, although I have no idea if it has to do with the charging showing 16 volts.

Here is the rundown:

When I hook up my timing light it's showing 16V's at the battery cables when running. I went to verify that with a multi meter this morning and it would not start at all. I drove it Sunday for about an hour and parked it, when I did everything worked well.

When I went to turn the key this morning the radio comes on when ignition is turned to accessory. When I got one more click to start I get nothing, like it's totally dead. When I have the key all the way in the start position my power goes out, radio second hand quits ticking, under dash lights turn off. Then when I go back to off the second hand on the clock will run backwards for about 5 seconds and then go back to clockwise. I put a multi meter on the batter this morning and it showed 12.94 volts.

Any ideas?
A few. As to your current complaint of no start check the battery cable connections very carefully the positive from the battery to the starter and the negative to the block make sure they are intact and also feel the cables from the terminals up a foot or so for any crunchy corrosion because battery cables can rot under the insulation jacket.

As it is not uncommon to have several problems going on at once with these old cars you also want to verify that you're not suffering from red wire syndrome in which the power feed on the left hand as you face it harness connector at the firewall becomes corroded and intermittent.

Search this forum threads for red wire syndrome and you will find good advice and diagrams posted by 65 GG vert.

16 volts is a indication of a bad regulator. While Joe's white paper will help you understand the charging system you don't need a white paper to fix this. It's not the alternator it's the regulator or a shorted wire in between the two. 16 Volts for long will burn up a battery and it is possible that your battery has an internal short that is operative during crank when battery plates move.

Install a known good battery temporarily in its place and see if you're cranking problem goes away.

It is also possible you have an ignition switch failure they happen, but not as often as people suspect. I would check the things I mentioned first.

Dan

Last edited by dplotkin; Today at 11:44 AM.
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Old Today | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin
A few. As to your current complaint of no start check the battery cable connections very carefully the positive from the battery to the starter and the negative to the block make sure they are intact and also feel the cables from the terminals up a foot or so for any crunchy corrosion because battery cables can rot under the insulation jacket.

As it is not uncommon to have several problems going on at once with these old cars you also want to verify that you're not suffering from red wire syndrome in which the power feed on the left hand as you face it harness connector at the firewall becomes corroded and intermittent.

Search this forum threads for red wire syndrome and you will find good advice and diagrams posted by 65 GG vert.

16 volts is a indication of a bad regulator. While Joe's white paper will help you understand the charging system you don't need a white paper to fix this. It's not the alternator it's the regulator or a shorted wire in between the two. 16 Volts for long will burn up a battery and it is possible that your battery has an internal short that is operative during crank when battery plates move.

Install a known good battery temporarily in its place and see if you're cranking problem goes away.

It is also possible you have an ignition switch failure they happen, but not as often as people suspect. I would check the things I mentioned first.

Dan
Thanks Dan.
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