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I'm building a body dolly per Noland Adam's plans, and I have a couple of questions.
How much of the top plate that ties the 4x4's and the 2x4's together do I need to cut out?
Am I correct that the car body mounts sit directly on top of the 4x4 and the top plate only
needs to be notched out to clear the rest of the body?
I mocked up a top corner, which of course is upside down. Picture attached.
Second question is about the casters. I'm thinking 4 fixed and 2 swivel to give it some stability when working on the body, but still allow it to be moved around.
Anyone have a recommendation on size, composition and brand?
It is a snug fit, you need to cut out as much of the plywood top plate ties as you can.... Make sure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the dolly is high enough to get your engine puller underneath it... I sandwiched some 2 X 6 or 8 between some plywood where the wheels attached to gain some height.
I used all swivel wheels with brakes on them.. They were spendy but its made life easier moving my body around.. I only set 2 or 3 of the brakes when I park the dolly/body...
I did a much simpler body dolly than the Noland Adams design & it worked just fine. When I took the body off I had a tall garge & hoist, but when I went to put it back on the car I had moved to a short garage so I had to use my engine hoist & like Limp said there was not enough room under the dolly. I just jacked up one side & got 'er dun. I can't find a pic of the dolly w/o the body on it, but you can get the idea. I would give it away, but the wood & bolts have gone on to other projects.
Darin
Jaced up one side to get hoist under it. Akward, but worked.
You want all casters to swivel so you can shove the whole thing around the shop.
One problem I had was with the bracing in place it was impossible to crawl under the cockpit itself. This was solved by modifying a section so it could be removed when needed and bolted back up when stability was important.
You want all casters to swivel so you can shove the whole thing around the shop.
One problem I had was with the bracing in place it was impossible to crawl under the cockpit itself. This was solved by modifying a section so it could be removed when needed and bolted back up when stability was important.
I need to do this also.. Is it stable with the bottom 2X4 missing?? I had thought about putting some L shaped braces made out of plywood connecting the top piece and the sides for strength... Or even bring out a short 2x4 on each bottom and go up with it, leaving a crawl section in the middle....
Seemed stable enough, the top rail, barely visible in the pic, is still there. If it helps bring peace of mind, you could make a little sleeve in the part that stays, one for each bolt.Then put the piece back in every time you get under or out.
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Body Dolly Question
