Can I get 7K RPM out of an LS6?
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2023
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Can I get 7K RPM out of an LS6?
I have a LS6, only thing I have is an intake and tune. Redline is bumped to 6800, but I'm so close to 7000. I found some play in my rockers (shocker) so I need to replace them anyway. I'd like to keep the stock heads/cam, I know the power falls off past 6400 ish. I just want a few more RPM to hold a gear for racing, and because it sounds so good at 6800 id love to hear 7000+. Any reccomendations for pushrods/rockers/spring combos? Do I need to do valves too? A previous owner has already done the springs, dont know the brand. All feedback is appreciated!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
I have a LS6, only thing I have is an intake and tune. Redline is bumped to 6800, but I'm so close to 7000. I found some play in my rockers (shocker) so I need to replace them anyway. I'd like to keep the stock heads/cam, I know the power falls off past 6400 ish. I just want a few more RPM to hold a gear for racing, and because it sounds so good at 6800 id love to hear 7000+. Any reccomendations for pushrods/rockers/spring combos? Do I need to do valves too? A previous owner has already done the springs, dont know the brand. All feedback is appreciated!
Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: San Jose CA
Agreed - Revving beyond the limiter is just going to float valves, wear your valvetrain and go slower.
If you want to rev to 7000RPM you need to have the cam, valvetrain and ECM tune to support that.
So - yes, you can absolutely rev a LS6 based engine that high, but not on a whim.
If you want to rev to 7000RPM you need to have the cam, valvetrain and ECM tune to support that.
So - yes, you can absolutely rev a LS6 based engine that high, but not on a whim.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
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Any specific brand reccomendations? Can I get away with not doing the rod bolts? Also the rpm can help with the 3-4 shift gap, but mainly I think it will sound really good. If theres a risk of chucking a piston it isnt worth it, but if pushrods, rockers and springs will get me there may as well.
Last edited by OlBlackVette02; Jun 15, 2026 at 08:02 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Any specific brand reccomendations? Can I get away with not doing the rod bolts? Also the rpm can help with the 3-4 shift gap, but mainly I think it will sound really good. If theres a risk of chucking a piston it isnt worth it, but if pushrods, rockers and springs will get me there may as well.
Le Mans Master
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I ran my stock LS6 with headers and PAC1218 valve springs to 7400rpm on occasion. I would shift on track at 6800, but if I wanted to eliminate a shift in between corners I would buzz it up to the limiter.
Watkins Glen is almost all 3rd gear at the limiter. I agree it sounds great, but I wouldnt make every shift all the time up there. I also replaced valve springs and timing chain every year as basic maintenance for running high RPM.
Watkins Glen is almost all 3rd gear at the limiter. I agree it sounds great, but I wouldnt make every shift all the time up there. I also replaced valve springs and timing chain every year as basic maintenance for running high RPM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2023
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Likes: 1
I ran my stock LS6 with headers and PAC1218 valve springs to 7400rpm on occasion. I would shift on track at 6800, but if I wanted to eliminate a shift in between corners I would buzz it up to the limiter.
Watkins Glen is almost all 3rd gear at the limiter. I agree it sounds great, but I wouldnt make every shift all the time up there. I also replaced valve springs and timing chain every year as basic maintenance for running high RPM.
https://youtu.be/TOn-GQoiJDg?si=oGpOPGt5hdy8cW2G
Watkins Glen is almost all 3rd gear at the limiter. I agree it sounds great, but I wouldnt make every shift all the time up there. I also replaced valve springs and timing chain every year as basic maintenance for running high RPM.
https://youtu.be/TOn-GQoiJDg?si=oGpOPGt5hdy8cW2G
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Completely stock LS6 with headers (bottom end, heads, rockers, pushrods, etc). I changed the valve springs to PAC1218, LS2 timing chain from Summit, and hand ported the oil pump to remove the burr on the inlet. I also had the oil pan baffles from Improved Racing, and later added an accusump.
Last edited by Kubs; Jun 16, 2026 at 10:38 AM.
Le Mans Master
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What type if racing are you doing? If you're participating in track days such as HPDE you'll want to pay close attention to your oil system. Honking on an LS6 at 7000 RPM in 3rd gear through a long sweeper will only sound good for a short period. Then it will sound expensive.
When I added aero I also put in a 3qt accumulator which helped with G forces, but before that it lived all day at 7000rpm and sweepers.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
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Completely stock LS6 with headers (bottom end, heads, rockers, pushrods, etc). I changed the valve springs to PAC1218, LS2 timing chain from Summit, and hand ported the oil pump to remove the burr on the inlet. I also had the oil pan baffles from Improved Racing, and later added an accusump.
Le Mans Master
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The porting of the pump just makes the transition into it smoother, I dont think it flows any more volume. I do think it helps with making the flow less turbulent and less foamy at higher RPM. I did shim the spring too, I forgot about that. A couple small washers under the spring. I think it was around 0.100" total. Always had solid pressure. My tuner "yelled" at me for giving up HP with so much pressure, lol.
Drifting
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Completely stock LS6 with headers (bottom end, heads, rockers, pushrods, etc). I changed the valve springs to PAC1218, LS2 timing chain from Summit, and hand ported the oil pump to remove the burr on the inlet. I also had the oil pan baffles from Improved Racing, and later added an accusump.
Also, what crank damper are you using?
FWIW, I ran my LS6 up to 7000 regularly for about 10 HPDEs, and then the timing chain broke, and pistons met valves, and things went downhill from there. A couple years later I happened on a pic of a C5 engine that had the same damper that came on my car, and one of the comments below it said something like, "get a new damper, those are known to break timing chains." So maybe that was the root of the problem. Unfortunately I don't remember the brand or I'd recommend avoiding it. I think it was a three letter acronym. It definitely wasn't ATI though, that's what I have now.
Le Mans Master
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Are you using the stock chain tensioner, or something else?
Also, what crank damper are you using?
FWIW, I ran my LS6 up to 7000 regularly for about 10 HPDEs, and then the timing chain broke, and pistons met valves, and things went downhill from there. A couple years later I happened on a pic of a C5 engine that had the same damper that came on my car, and one of the comments below it said something like, "get a new damper, those are known to break timing chains." So maybe that was the root of the problem. Unfortunately I don't remember the brand or I'd recommend avoiding it. I think it was a three letter acronym. It definitely wasn't ATI though, that's what I have now.
Also, what crank damper are you using?
FWIW, I ran my LS6 up to 7000 regularly for about 10 HPDEs, and then the timing chain broke, and pistons met valves, and things went downhill from there. A couple years later I happened on a pic of a C5 engine that had the same damper that came on my car, and one of the comments below it said something like, "get a new damper, those are known to break timing chains." So maybe that was the root of the problem. Unfortunately I don't remember the brand or I'd recommend avoiding it. I think it was a three letter acronym. It definitely wasn't ATI though, that's what I have now.
For the first couple years I just used the factory damper until I had to replace it. Then I went with the Summit underdrive damper.
Safety Car
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From: Da U.P.
Crazy how the intent of this thread has flown over almost everyone's head in here, I will just smash the rev limiter between certain corners (not allowed to change my limiter). It drives me nuts watching someone upshift then immediately downshift between corners.
There was a chart posted EONS ago that showed the stock pump cavitated at some point north of 6000 (really I think it was over 6500) and the Mellings did not. Of course there was no indication of whether or not porting fixed that. There is a sharp transition on the inlet side that actually matches up with the inlet tube, so need to be mindful of that.
Was it the damper or an actual tensioner that the later engines got? I seem to recall around 2003.5 something being added to the chain on at least the LS6.
The accusump will help, but the baffles are just as important in keeping oil around the pickup. The accusump will empty pretty quickly if your using it on long sweepers back to back. I ran with just the baffled pan for about 3 years and then added the accusump when I added aero. Without aero you might be ok with just the accusump or just the baffles.
The porting of the pump just makes the transition into it smoother, I dont think it flows any more volume. I do think it helps with making the flow less turbulent and less foamy at higher RPM. I did shim the spring too, I forgot about that. A couple small washers under the spring. I think it was around 0.100" total. Always had solid pressure. My tuner "yelled" at me for giving up HP with so much pressure, lol.
The porting of the pump just makes the transition into it smoother, I dont think it flows any more volume. I do think it helps with making the flow less turbulent and less foamy at higher RPM. I did shim the spring too, I forgot about that. A couple small washers under the spring. I think it was around 0.100" total. Always had solid pressure. My tuner "yelled" at me for giving up HP with so much pressure, lol.
There was a chart posted EONS ago that showed the stock pump cavitated at some point north of 6000 (really I think it was over 6500) and the Mellings did not. Of course there was no indication of whether or not porting fixed that. There is a sharp transition on the inlet side that actually matches up with the inlet tube, so need to be mindful of that.
The LS6 never had a chain tensioner from the factory. I did have the orange "damper" in there to help with chain whipping, but no tensioner. But they do stretch. Right off the bat when I bought the car it got valve springs, LS2 chain with larger rollers, ported oil pump and IR oil pan baffles. Again, I replaced valve springs and timing chain every year to help prevent an early failure.
For the first couple years I just used the factory damper until I had to replace it. Then I went with the Summit underdrive damper.
For the first couple years I just used the factory damper until I had to replace it. Then I went with the Summit underdrive damper.
Was it the damper or an actual tensioner that the later engines got? I seem to recall around 2003.5 something being added to the chain on at least the LS6.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Akron Ohio
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
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There was a chart posted EONS ago that showed the stock pump cavitated at some point north of 6000 (really I think it was over 6500) and the Mellings did not. Of course there was no indication of whether or not porting fixed that. There is a sharp transition on the inlet side that actually matches up with the inlet tube, so need to be mindful of that.
