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any of you guys using one of these Fi Interchillers? any good? does your AC still work well and not turn into some shitbox? all the posts i read weren't the best. after upgrading it to a stage 2 ur out the door for around $2500 a third of the way to a 2650 maggie. just trying to see if anyone has some more current experience to share and not just spinning my tires adding this mod.
I can't speak to this specifiic system but the technology works.
They circulate the water in the supercharger liquid to air aftercooler system through a heat exchanger that uses the vehicle AC system to provide cooling (remove heat).
I hear you OP, its almost like you are trying to turn the 1.7 into a maggy without spending maggy money but by the time you are done making a max effort 1.7 (1500 + 2500 + 500 + 500) port, fi, tb, expansion tank - , how far away are you really from maggy that can do all of that better/more efficiently & have a ton of upside? idk I'm still on the fence about this. I feel like this is a needed component for a max effort 1.7 build done the right way.
I hear you OP, its almost like you are trying to turn the 1.7 into a maggy without spending maggy money but by the time you are done making a max effort 1.7 (1500 + 2500 + 500 + 500) port, fi, tb, expansion tank - , how far away are you really from maggy that can do all of that better/more efficiently & have a ton of upside? idk I'm still on the fence about this. I feel like this is a needed component for a max effort 1.7 build done the right way.
how does it work?
do you plumb AC into the reservoir tank or something?
in short the Stage 2 Fi interchiller i was looking at works by maximizing the car's cooling power to freeze the supercharger fluid while keeping the cabin ice-cold. it does this by
Bigger AC Capacity: A secondary front-mounted AC condenser sheds heat faster, allowing the refrigerant to get much colder.
More Airflow: A dedicated electric pusher fan forces air through the new condenser to keep it efficient even at a standstill.
Thermal Bank: It often uses an insulated reservoir to hold a larger volume of sub-freezing fluid, preventing rapid heat-up during hard pulls.
In short, Stage 2 expands the car's AC infrastructure so you can achieve sub-zero fluid temperatures (down to 21°F or lower) without sacrificing cabin comfort...........with that said while all that sounds great. the amount of added **** going into the engine bay or rather in the already cramped limited front bumper area this is NOT the way to go(in my opinion). the amount of work and fabrication a shop would probably need to do start to make this project jump price i would assume.
Cordes has a pretty good plan of i think the heat exchanger, bigger reservoir tank and the prospeed oil cooler..... i'd be inclined to go with cordes suggestions off rip considering they handle AZ heat without issues. beyond this it is just wiser to save for a 2650 as it cuts the heat issue from the start by not creating it because it runs so much more efficient. obviously every build can be different or similar depending on what the driver is looking for.
I hear you OP, its almost like you are trying to turn the 1.7 into a maggy without spending maggy money but by the time you are done making a max effort 1.7 (1500 + 2500 + 500 + 500) port, fi, tb, expansion tank - , how far away are you really from maggy that can do all of that better/more efficiently & have a ton of upside? idk I'm still on the fence about this. I feel like this is a needed component for a max effort 1.7 build done the right way.
so my car is going to JTM for the modifications/upgrades which are as follows. LME 377 forged short block JTM LT4 cam package DSX low-side auxiliary fuel system Mighty Mouse Wild catch can JTM flex fuel kit C7 Z06 upgraded heat exchanger Heat exchanger expansion tank Aeroforce gauge (stealth install behind the nav screen)
103mm throttle body
stainless works headers and x-pipe
roto fab big gulp intake
in the realm of trying to get max effort i'll say this much. I’m not chasing dyno numbers anymore; the goal this time is a bulletproof foundation for dinner cruises and the occasional highway pull. nothing psychotic. figured i'd build the proper foundation now and if down the road the 2650 was wanted the car was built to handle it.
the goal this time is a bulletproof foundation for dinner cruises and the occasional highway pull. .
those two things don't require a super duper intercooler system in any way
All the complexity of using an AC system for the intercooler would serve nothing other than track use
unless you just want the best cooling for the sake of having the best cooling
Kind of like my carbon ceramic brakes on a car I only street drive
serves no actual purpose, but looks cool as hell
I have an IC Chillers Interchiller. I was doing everything possible to keep MAT Temps down on an overspun Kong X-Ported blower. I have the Cordes HX, Cordes Expansion tank and the FI Interchillers thermal plates and it would still raise temps higher than I wanted them. The interchiller helped but an overspun LT4 blower is just going to cause massive heat. I swapped to the Magnuson 2650 recently and wished I would have done that a long time ago. You stated $2500 for the interchiller you are 1/3 of the way to a Maggy, Don't forget you can sell your LT4 blower for $2500 and now you are 2/3 of the way there. The 2650 just make power so much more efficiently. I pushed my little LT4 blower and made 825rwhp/825rwtq which sounds great and it is, but I had to spin it to 28,000 rpm way out of its efficiency range to get there. With the Maggy I am spinning it to 20,000rpm in the sweet spot for power and efficiency and made 1015.9rwhp/885rwtq with less E content (E50 vs full C85) and less timing. It could make more but I am on the stock short block and I didn't want to push it much further. I should have enough power to accomplish my goals of running in the 8's.
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