Please Review - LED Bulb Selections
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: TX
Please Review - LED Bulb Selections
On my '71 I've been sorting out some bulb/electrical issues and was just able to scrape enough bulbs together from my stash to light up just about everything. In so doing started thinking with the lenses and such out - maybe it's time to step up to some exterior LEDs. I'm looking for a little more safety and a little more light but nothing excessive - and I do prefer the stock vintage warm 2.7K to 3K white look where appropriate.
I'm going to leave the gray metal front parking reflectors and chrome side marker reflectors alone. But the tailight reflectors are completely dingy and oversprayed and as reflective as a bat cave - so I'm painting those gloss white.
Tailights/Signals (#1157): Diode Dynamics 1157 HP11 Turn Signal LED Bulbs
Parking/Signals (#1157A): same (exc in amber)
Good reviews here. These fire out the top of the bulb which, when mounted sideways in a shallow reflector, avoid dead spots. They're also supposed to have a good delta between taillight and brake/signal light.
Backup lights #1156: SuperBright 1156-WW3W Warm 3KThe DDs above only came in 6K cold white - preferred a warmer 3K so found these...
Sidemarkers #194: Diode Dynamics 194 LED Bulb HP3These are non-polarized. bi-directional and also fire out the top with a diffuser lens. Available in red and amber. They look pretty ideal for side markers.
License Plate (#97): Norman LED-G6SC
Courtesy Lights (Front) (#631): Norman LED-G6SC (same as above)
Courtesy Light (Storage) (#90): Norman LED-GSDC
These are only 85 lumens, probably not all that much brighter than the original incandescants. But I like the glass covered G6 bulb for the exposed front courtesy lamps. And I like the lack of heat when the door is open. Available in warm 3K white. The closest I found at SuperBrightLEDs was 100 lumens and don't recall that it had a glass covered element which I prefer for replacing the #631s. But maybe I overlooked something at SuperBrightLEDs in a small BA15S or BA15D in soft white 3K (and w/ glass for the front courtesy).
For (1) the signal flasher and (2) the hazard flasher, I was just going to use the popular United Pacific #90652 which comes with an optional reversing polarity base.
Headlamps: The original sealed beam headlights were upgraded to halogens many years ago. Since I almost never drive the car at night that's OK for now. But if/when I upgrade - I plan to use the Holley RetroBrights in the warm 3K color.
Appreciate any comments - thanks!
I'm going to leave the gray metal front parking reflectors and chrome side marker reflectors alone. But the tailight reflectors are completely dingy and oversprayed and as reflective as a bat cave - so I'm painting those gloss white.
Tailights/Signals (#1157): Diode Dynamics 1157 HP11 Turn Signal LED Bulbs
Parking/Signals (#1157A): same (exc in amber)
Good reviews here. These fire out the top of the bulb which, when mounted sideways in a shallow reflector, avoid dead spots. They're also supposed to have a good delta between taillight and brake/signal light.
Backup lights #1156: SuperBright 1156-WW3W Warm 3KThe DDs above only came in 6K cold white - preferred a warmer 3K so found these...
Sidemarkers #194: Diode Dynamics 194 LED Bulb HP3These are non-polarized. bi-directional and also fire out the top with a diffuser lens. Available in red and amber. They look pretty ideal for side markers.
License Plate (#97): Norman LED-G6SC
Courtesy Lights (Front) (#631): Norman LED-G6SC (same as above)
Courtesy Light (Storage) (#90): Norman LED-GSDC
These are only 85 lumens, probably not all that much brighter than the original incandescants. But I like the glass covered G6 bulb for the exposed front courtesy lamps. And I like the lack of heat when the door is open. Available in warm 3K white. The closest I found at SuperBrightLEDs was 100 lumens and don't recall that it had a glass covered element which I prefer for replacing the #631s. But maybe I overlooked something at SuperBrightLEDs in a small BA15S or BA15D in soft white 3K (and w/ glass for the front courtesy).
For (1) the signal flasher and (2) the hazard flasher, I was just going to use the popular United Pacific #90652 which comes with an optional reversing polarity base.
Headlamps: The original sealed beam headlights were upgraded to halogens many years ago. Since I almost never drive the car at night that's OK for now. But if/when I upgrade - I plan to use the Holley RetroBrights in the warm 3K color.
Appreciate any comments - thanks!
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Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 707
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From: Aubrey TX
If you replace the front 1157A park/signal lights with LED's the front side markers will not work when the headlights are on. The front marker/turn‑signal circuit depends on the 1157 bulb acting as a floating ground, and an LED cannot do that. To work properly with full LED's the alternating between the 194 and 1157A would have to be done electronically. Other than that, what your planning to do has been done by many other forum members, myself included 
One other thing, those electronic flasher polarity reversing base is not necessary. Its a snap to just swap the pink and purple wire in the factory connector which eliminates the need for that extra part. And should you ever go back to the OE flasher, it will work like nothing changed. OE flashers are not polarized.
One other thing, those electronic flasher polarity reversing base is not necessary. Its a snap to just swap the pink and purple wire in the factory connector which eliminates the need for that extra part. And should you ever go back to the OE flasher, it will work like nothing changed. OE flashers are not polarized.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: TX
OK thanks.
The 1157As and 194s linked above are non-polarized so as to work with floating ground applications. Or did I miss something?
The other thing I like about these is the LEDs are oriented to fire out the 'top' of the bulb - which when installed in a vertical C3 housing - fires directly towards the lens.
I think that particular electronic flasher linked above has the floating ground module as optional so I don't have to install it. But of course it has the extra ground wire so I think I see your point that the extra module isn't necessary on a C3.
thanks again
thx.
The 1157As and 194s linked above are non-polarized so as to work with floating ground applications. Or did I miss something?
The other thing I like about these is the LEDs are oriented to fire out the 'top' of the bulb - which when installed in a vertical C3 housing - fires directly towards the lens.
I think that particular electronic flasher linked above has the floating ground module as optional so I don't have to install it. But of course it has the extra ground wire so I think I see your point that the extra module isn't necessary on a C3.
thanks again
thx.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 707
Likes: 335
From: Aubrey TX
some LED flashers have 2 pins (X and L) others are 3 pins (X, L, and a ground). The extra wire on the 3‑pin units is just a reference ground for the internal timing circuit.
It doesn’t change how the bulbs behave, it only stabilizes the flash rate.
Again, the 1157 LED cannot BE THE GROUND that the 194 needs to alternately flash when the parking/headlights are on. If you replace the 1157 in the front of the car with an LED the 194 will not work properly.
It doesn’t change how the bulbs behave, it only stabilizes the flash rate.
Again, the 1157 LED cannot BE THE GROUND that the 194 needs to alternately flash when the parking/headlights are on. If you replace the 1157 in the front of the car with an LED the 194 will not work properly.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,393
Likes: 1,775
From: Seattle Area Washington
If you replace the front 1157A park/signal lights with LED's the front side markers will not work when the headlights are on. The front marker/turn‑signal circuit depends on the 1157 bulb acting as a floating ground, and an LED cannot do that. To work properly with full LED's the alternating between the 194 and 1157A would have to be done electronically. Other than that, what your planning to do has been done by many other forum members, myself included
One other thing, those electronic flasher polarity reversing base is not necessary. Its a snap to just swap the pink and purple wire in the factory connector which eliminates the need for that extra part. And should you ever go back to the OE flasher, it will work like nothing changed. OE flashers are not polarized.
One other thing, those electronic flasher polarity reversing base is not necessary. Its a snap to just swap the pink and purple wire in the factory connector which eliminates the need for that extra part. And should you ever go back to the OE flasher, it will work like nothing changed. OE flashers are not polarized.
I had to do this exact thing when I switched to LED, note the load side of each flasher relay...
I have front clear lenses on my 77 and went with switchback lights from GLL Link: These GLL bulbs are Amber Off/Amber Off in turn signal mode and white when the headlight switch is in the 1st or 2nd position.
I also needed to install a resistor inline on each turn harness so the side marker lights would flash normally...Link: The resistor would tie between the blue and black wires of the turn signal short harness...
My side marker light are still the 194 incandescent bulbs...
Last edited by bmotojoe; Today at 07:54 AM.
