C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

!989 AC Recharge Qs

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Old Today | 01:20 PM
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Default !989 AC Recharge Qs

AC not blowing cold. I have 18K original miles so I think all components work and just need recharge. I believe this model uses R134a but we can't get it in BC, Canada, nor can I get it WA State. Red Tek makes R12a along with other brands. After reading lotsa internet info, seems like the leak sealant products get severely trashed so i will shy away from them but I was also told the reason there is no refrigerant is because it has leaked out so it needs to have sealant to stop leak 🤷‍♂️. For now I am holding off on sealant.

My mechanic buddy says you need to put in amount of coolant as per capacity spec and don't rely on the DIY gauges that show green yellow red ranges to show you pressure. How do i know how much is in system before i add to it? Do I assume it is empty and just add exactly what the capacity spec is? i thought once the pressure is in correct range on gauge it is only able to do so because i have correct amount of refrigerant ?
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Old Today | 03:52 PM
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Check to make sure you really have R134a and not R12. It was R12 when built but may have been converted. Dan
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Old Today | 04:03 PM
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I know 1989 c4 is R12 but I think he’s in Canada so maybe they had different regulations at that time
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Old Today | 04:23 PM
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The charge weight should be listed on a sticker in the engine compartment, showing the refrigerant type and capacity (charge weight). In the USA, R-12 was used until 94-95 after that R-134a, due to the Montreal Protocol, which banned R-12 due to it's high Ozone Depletion Potential. R-12 is nearly impossible to find. If you are low on charge, you have a leak and re-charging the system without finding the cause of the leak is futile.

It's also possible the system was converted to R-134a but performance is greatly reduced, especially at idle. If the system was converted, the charge ports should be different than the threaded shrader valves used on an R-12 system. And there should be stickers indicating the conversion to R-134a.
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Old Today | 05:12 PM
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yes it is a threaded schrader valve, not the quick connect type that most other ACs use. The low port looks to be on the accumulator. Sounds like I can't just add this R12a product, the old stuff will need to be evacuated.
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Old Today | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead2004
AC not blowing cold. I have 18K original miles so I think all components work and just need recharge. I believe this model uses R134a but we can't get it in BC, Canada, nor can I get it WA State. Red Tek makes R12a along with other brands. After reading lotsa internet info, seems like the leak sealant products get severely trashed so i will shy away from them but I was also told the reason there is no refrigerant is because it has leaked out so it needs to have sealant to stop leak 🤷‍♂️. For now I am holding off on sealant.

My mechanic buddy says you need to put in amount of coolant as per capacity spec and don't rely on the DIY gauges that show green yellow red ranges to show you pressure. How do i know how much is in system before i add to it? Do I assume it is empty and just add exactly what the capacity spec is? i thought once the pressure is in correct range on gauge it is only able to do so because i have correct amount of refrigerant ?

If it has leaked out, it doesn't need "sealant". It needs to have the leak located and corrected. Your comments and questions suggest you know nothing about AC systems. Take it to a quality AC shop.
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Old Today | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
If it has leaked out, it doesn't need "sealant". It needs to have the leak located and corrected. Your comments and questions suggest you know nothing about AC systems. Take it to a quality AC shop.
Princess Auto calls it a "sealant" kit, actual product is called stop leak. i have used both the stop leak and R12a on other vehicles and it fixed my AC woes. I know AC systems use compressor, condenser, accumulator and evaporator so that might be considered slightly more than nothing...perhaps just enough to be dangerous. Maybe consumers shouldn't be allowed to use these products as per the manufacturers instructions.

You could probably reply to the majority of people asking for help on these forums and tell them they know nothing and should go to professional. I started doing most of my own repairs, renos, etc.. after experiencing some horrific work from so-called pros over the years. Don't get me wrong, there are some great pros and there are also lotsa duds.
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